Logan S

I started with an aluminum boat before going to a full size boat. I think it's smart and I usually recommend it when people ask. You will learn how to be a boater for much less cash and much less maintenance. You can also fish smaller waters or rivers where you can't take a glass boat if you have those in your area. Most important thing is you will learn exactly what you want when you get a full size boat...You will know what limitations you can live with and which you can't. It makes your decision on the full size rig much easier.

If he asked you to pay for the whole tank and not split it, then I'd say that's excessive. Getting it sqaured away first thing in the morning is the best thing you can possibly do. When you are launching or getting ready all you gotta say is, "Hey I brought some cash with me, what do you think is a fair amount for what we're doing today?" As for him running around...Well, at the risk of sound a little jerk-ish, I have no sympathy for a co there. It's possible the guy had a plan and it's also possible he was absolutly clueless...But that's just one of the burdens of being a co-angler, you go where the boat the goes. There are certain lakes here where I will run around like that. Granted, I usually put fish in the boat unlike your guy...But sometimes running around IS the plan, even if it doesn't work. Problem is, when you fish that way you usually don't know your plan is busted til it's to late For any co-anglers reading....You have no idea what a great value this is to a boater. If my co can do either of these two things they are instantly on my good side! Just don't try to learn on the tournament day and don't offer until you are completely comfortable with it...I don't mind if they can't do it, its just a great bonus when they can.

I fish a lot of tournaments each year, at least 13 as that is our regular schedule. Without a doubt the number one reason for dead fish that I have seen has nothing to do with the actual conditions... People just flat out don't maintain their livewells and/or batteries. Most often it's just batteries....They are either old, not sufficient for all day cranking/accessory use, or both. Battery starts to die and the guy is forced to use the livewell less or even turn it off. All the other fish care tips are great and they do help...But the most important thing you can do is make sure your equipment works properly. You would be surprised at how many TX angler's don't... FWIW, I very rarely have a dead fish penalty and 99% of the time I don't take any extra precautions. I just run my wells when there are fish in them. Even in the summer on the Potomac, I rarely run into issues where I'm worried about the fish...My stuff works and I let it run.

I think it's common courtesy to offer if you're a non-boater. You're not obligated to give me anything, but I'm also not obligated to ever take you out again. I don't necessarily expect anything, but I will usually accept cash if it's offered. If I go out with another boater, I'll always offer. Now, somebody with an attitude like you're describing? Yea, they won't be seeing the back deck of my boat again... With that attitude you shouldn't be surprised to get back seated. After all, your argument is basically "every man for himself"...So why would the boater go out of his way to give you any casting room or good water to fish? You both signed up fair and square, you don't owe him anything and he doesn't owe you anything...Right? Fair is fair both ways... (Disclaimer: That's not how I operate, just expanding that line of thought...I think most co's are happy to fish with me ) Obviously, there are boaters who take it too far, we all know one or two...But what you're advocating is a good way to be just as bad as they are, albeit in the opposite direction. Edited to add: I made another post shortly after this one, but decided to delete it since it didn't add anything constructive.

If you're dead-set on not going the club route then look up the BFL schedule for your region. They are big, but they are well organized and you will definately get the full tournament experience. I would advise against trolling the boat ramps with cash and tackle though . Even opens you have to sign up for. Also know that there is no social or attendance requirement for the vast majority of clubs or open events...But you should at least be a little social/personable. After all, you'll be sharing a boat with someone for 8 or 9 hours. I would at least consider the club option. You can always look up few in your area and see if their format fits what you want to do. Obviously, I'm a little biased since I belong to a great one . Most clubs are big on learning with a little friendly competition thrown in...

I posted this in the other thread... http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/the-truth-about-fluorocarbon.html The actual answers to your questions are here The other post is 7 pages long with a bunch of individual anecdotes....But there is some good info there. As always, bottom line is that if you DON'T like it...Don't use it Flouro does stretch and compared to braid it would seem like a lot. There are advantages in my opinion over braid, but ultimately that's your decision to make.

I will agree with this...I think the barometer is largely irrelevant in terms of fishing. The most it's ever going to change is insignificant when dealing with things under the water's surface. You are a little off on atmospheric equivalent depths though, one ATM is equal to 33 feet of water. The surface is 1 ATM, 33 feet is 2 ATM, 66 feet is 3 ATM and so on.... Still, your overall point is correct in my opinion. Atmospheric pressure is largely irrelevant when you consider the effects under the surface of the water. Surface pressure is on average 1013ish millibars, even the nastiest front will only drop it maybe 20ish millibars? You're only talking about 1-2% of change....The same as moving up or down underwater less than 1 foot. Think of how many times a day a fish does that... When it comes to weather affecting the fishing I think there are 4 major players. Cloud cover, wind, precipitation, and temperature....More or less in that order (with clouds/wind being very close). You add in another whole host of variables when you consider what effect that has on the water clarity, current, level, etc.... It's a lot to think about, which is why I always think the best plan is to fish the conditions as presented and see what you figure out .

Personally, I like the heavier rods. I like the backbone since spinnerbaits have heavier wire hooks, similar to a jig. If I get short strikes the first thing I'll do is speed up my retrieve, usually gets a better reaction. If that doesn't work I'll slow down. If that doesn't work I'll try something else. If that doesn't work I'll blame it on Perch . (I do always use a trailer hook) I do know some guys whose opinion/skills I trust, that use the crankbait style rods though (like a MH-Moderate).... I think it's one of those grey areas in tackle selection where both answers can be right, just depends on what you like.

It could be tough...Rule of thumb I've found to be pretty accurate is below. 1st Day/Day of the front: Toss up, can be really good or bad or anything in between depending on conditions. 2nd Day: Typically the tougher day, but fish are there to be caught. 3rd Day: Starts to rebound, fishing usually average or better. Take what the conditions give you and keep an open mind, better than sitting at home. High skies and wind are probably going to greet you at the lake, just fish accordingly.

Your club sounds pretty similar to ours, set-up wise. Sounds like your members are afraid that if you allow open boats it will turn into an all boater affair? It's a legitimate thought, as it an be an be an advantage to fish alone for a number of reasons. It can take away the non-boaters incentive to keep fishing if there are too many boaters to compete against I guess. Our club allows open boats, we have 1 or 2 every now and then these days. We used to have waiting lists for non-boaters though, but many have bought boats and evened the numbers out. One thing we did a while ago was to separate the boaters and non-boaters into separate divisions. The boaters only compete against other boaters and same for the co-anglers. For both individual TX's and AOY. We did this because it can be difficult to compete out of the back of a boat against the guys in the front....The results showed it as well, as we never had a non-boater win AOY. We felt it was better to split into divisions to avoid having the co-anglers feel like they were just adding to the pot. It has worked well for us and it brings out a fun competitiveness in everyone...Since boaters not only want to do well themselves, but most also want to put their Co-anglers on fish to win (since they are competing against each other). Really though, I think the most important thing you can do to keep a club healthy is bringing in new members. Without new members the club will eventually slow down...We do things like kids fishing derbies and fishing seminars to try to draw new members. We also keep our website updated and that is actually what draws most new members. That all depends on how your club is set up though, we try to keep ours very open. I think forcing boaters to get in another boat will do more harm than good in the long run...I would not like that rule at all! Sorry I don't have more advice for you, hope it all turns out for the best.

Regardless, the point is tie them carefully...I particularly like the palomar because there's not a lot of line to move/twist when you tie it. Friction when tying is a huge knot killer. Any of the popular knots will work provided you do it properly, I'll stick to the palomar. I know how it works on lines . Flouro doesn't absorb water like mono/copoly does...So in essence what you are doing is simply lubricating your flouro with L&L. Maybe that helps some people? On mono it absorbs into the line and makes it more manageable (incidentally, you can get the same effect by soaking it in water, AKA fishing with it for a few dozen casts). For the record, I've used it...I didn't find any changes on flouro. For the OP and anyone else interested, I found this article a while ago to be very interesting. It's good breakdown of mono/flouro from a somewhat scientific standpoint. The whole article is a good read and related to this discussion, but for what we are talking about here, pay close attention the paragraph on Water Absorption . http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/the-truth-about-fluorocarbon.html (I'm not affiliated in anyway with this site, just found it on the net and bookmarked it) You obviously have a different opinion than me, that's OK. Like I've said multiple times, don't let me stop you! Someone reading this thread can look at all the information and make their own decision on what to try/not try. No such thing as too much information. The biggest mistake you can make is thinking you've already learned everything. A lot of fisherman stay away from fluoro because of talk like this...Where people say you NEED to buy 'quality' AKA expensive line, treat it with magical spray, tie the special knot, etc, etc, etc, ......I like to point out that it's really much simpler than that. Buy flouro. Spool it up. Cast a few times and adjust your methods if you have trouble. Catch fish. Retie/replace as needed.

1: If you like it, don't let me stop you It's not doing the same thing it does to mono/copoly. 2: Don't buy it if you don't like it It works very well for me and many, many others. Never said it was the absolute best. 3: I've looked at it, both from above and below the surface with my own eyes. You can see it. Either way, like I said earlier it's a non-factor to me. I'm advocating using flouro by the way, for me mono/colpoly only touches topwater stuff. Just passing along my on the water experience, don't take it personally or anything.

Keep it simple to start. Use the same stuff you had success with in the smaller boat or from shore and try to find areas that match what you are used to. Not every body of water follows the 'book'...So most times you need to figure it out on your own. If you have issues finding fish after a while, look at what the other boats are doing...But focus on the DIFFERENCES in what they are doing versus what you had been doing. Be patient and willing to learn, don't try to copy other boats...Learn from them. A lot of people get discouraged because they think having the boat will now free up all the limitations they had...In reality, it only gives you more variables to figure out! Apply what you already know, keep an open mind, and learn. You will get the hang of it eventually .

I try to keep it simple. Fluoro sinks, has great all around sensitivity, is abrasion resistant, and typically has a smaller diameter than equal mono. Why wouldn't I use it? The fact that it sinks is such a huge advantage in everything outside of topwater...Yet nobody really ever talks about it as being that important. It's probably best quality about Flourocarbon. You will have less of a bow in your line above and below the surface, meaning less distance for movment to travel (sensitivity). It also means less line to move when setting the hook. A little advice Your line is always going to break at the weakest point, the overwhelming majority of the time that will be at the knot...No matter what knot you tie. Tie a palomar knot. Wet the line, including ALL the line that will pass thru the knot (the whole loop). Cinch it down SLOWLY. You can choose another knot and follow these steps too, but the palomar is the easiest and also the strongest IMO. Check the last 5 feet of your line often (with any line). Even grass can fray line if you're in it enough. Retie every few fish or every couple hours...Even with no visable damage, the line/knots will get stressed. Line conditioners are useless on flouro, don't waste your time/money. Flouro doesn't absorb water like mono/braid does...So line conditioner will only sit on top of it until it dries out. You don't need to spend big bucks. Seagar Red Label is excellent line, I use it almost exclusivly. BassPro XPS is also excellent. It is stiffer than mono/braid. You will have to adjust your casting especially on baitcasting gear. It's not hard, just do it...It will make you an even better caster when you pick up a rod with braid/mono. It's not invisible. Not even close. Just look at in the water for yourself. This makes no difference. If you think fish aren't going to eat your bait because they can see the line, what about the hooks/weights/bills/split rings/etc???? Getting more bites with flouro is likely a combination of the action changing due to the line sinking and being a smaller diameter, OR simply because you can feel more.

From the few spots I've caught, the easiest way to tell is the tongue....It's rough like bass 'teeth'. The mouth is also smaller on spots and while they look similar, the pattern on a spot is recognizable as different from a LM once you've seen a few in person.

We have Conowingo on the schedule every May. In the past we have fished the Upper Bay out of Tydings or Anchor Marina. It's always in the discussion when forming the schedule...But we don't get up that way very much. I know for a fact there are a few clubs that operate in that area. I don't know the names off the top of my head but a google search will probably turn them up pretty easy.

Those TW exclusive rods were awesome so I hope this is true.... When I noticed they were disappearing from Tackle Warehouse I was kicking myself for not scooping up more.

Ha! You are probably the first one to notice I didn't notice it haha

I'm confused...Are they forcing you to buy it? They think their product warrants the high price and based on fact they are still in business they are right. Don't buy one...I wouldn't either. The Megabass baits are about as much as I'm willing to spend so these are waaaaaay over my head. Some people think I'm crazy to spend $25 on a Vision 110, but to me they are worth it...Craftsmanship is taken to another level on many of the Japanese baits. I imagine whoever is buying these ultra expensive swimbaits feel similar. A true world record chaser on one of the California lakes or on Biwa might think it's worth it though. That type of fishing is drastically different from what most guys like me do.

I think what you're hearing relates to the older B series Curado an Chronarch. They were workhorse reels and many are still in use. The newer reels are an improvement I'm sure, but those reels had such a huge following I think anyone that used them will always have a soft spot for them. I still have some and I still use a Curado 100B regularly. If you are looking for something similar today, in my opinion the Revo SX/STX/Premier reels are a great value and built to last. Most of my casting reels are STX's and I'd recommend them to anyone. I know you wanted Shimano, but I don't have much experience with their newer offerings...I moved away from them during the Shim-bind-o spinning reel era , lots of positive reviews though.

A C-channel means the frame is shaped like the letter 'C'. Doesn't mean it won't rust, just means water/other stuff won't get stuck inside like a tube framed trailer. Less likely to rust. Also easier on maintenance stuff like re-wiring lights or anything that needs run down the frame. May or may not be a deal breaker for you. I fish the Potomac and other tidal rivers which do have some salt so I wish I had a trailer that didn't trap water.

It was really more of a joke when I put Stratos at the top, as I thought people would tell from my username I owned one . I would absolutely recommend one, but was really putting more emphasis on getting a boat to match your needs rather than picking out a popular brand. Still, I'll take you through my decision process in case it helps someone. I went down my checklist for what I wanted. -at least 20' (my previous boat was 17' and I'd had enough of the size limitations) -lots of front deck storage -large, independent livewells -good trolling motor (came with a new Motorguide Tour Edition 82lb) -single console -good overall condition -good price -reasonably fast (I fish the Potomac and some larger lakes and want the option of running 20 miles without chewing up tons of time) The things I failed (I speak form experience in my previous posts ). -reliable motor (It had a 200ph FICHT...) -good trailer (not really a failure on my part, I couldn't have know it had internal rust) I eventually narrowed down my choice to the Stratos and a Ranger of similar layout. The Ranger was 1 year newer but had significantly more hours, older accessories, less desirable livewells (large divided, not 2 separate), and was $3,000 more. I went with the mine despite the motor... The boat itself I couldn't be happier with. I took a gamble on the motor and it was actually a great motor for 3 years...Very efficient and powerful. Until it wasn't . I ended up blowing the powerhead in a tournament. Since I liked the the boat so much I decided to repower with a new ETEC and once again, couldn't be happier. The trailer ended up rusting behind the axle and developing a crack, this is where it good to have a friend with an auto shop...Welded a few plates on and it's back on the road. The lesson here is to go for a C-channel trailer over a tube-framed trailer if you can... I knew the risk I was taking and I ended up getting 3 years out of the motor before it bit me. The ETEC cost me, but now I have brand new motor with warranty on a boat I still love. Now, if I had to do it all over again? Knowing what I know now, I'd probably go with a C-channel trailer and probably steer away from motor with a bad rep...Although on a used rig any brand has potential to screw you, as you never know what the previous owner did. But I'm still happy with my decision and honestly think I made the best call at the time. If you're going to take anything away from this, learn from both my mistakes and my success. Also remember that no matter what, a boat will always cost you money. For me, it's part of the game and I understand it...I love bass fishing enough to keep spending and not have second thoughts.

Because I own one Any of the big names will serve well, especially in normal conditions. In rough water, size helps before brand... No matter the boat, being in rough water in a bass boat sucks. Bass boats are not made to handle rough water, they are fishing platforms, some are little better than others...But that's where operator experience comes in to play too. If you want a fishing boat purpose built for handling rough water you need to look at walleye style boats or something similar...But then you sacrifice many other things when it comes to bass fishing.

And just in case you have all your goals figured out already, when it comes to how a boat rides it's probably 80% driver, 20% boat. Allow yourself time to become experienced in operating your boat and I doubt you will have issues in any rig. A bass boat is probably one of the more complicated boats to drive well...There's more to it than flooring the throttle and steering where you want

You've received some good advice here so far, I will try to add to it. Length, storage, livewells, overall condition, motor, trailer, etc...All need to be balanced against what you can spend. In general, I'd say you want to lean heavy on length since you plan to fish the upper Bay. You don't want end up wishing you went bigger. When it comes to glass boats, generally a 20' boat can do everything an 18' boat can...But an 18' can't do everything a 20' can. For used boats, motor and trailer condition need to be considered as extremely important too. If either turns out to suck you will regret everything. Get both checked by a professional. For motors, some have bad reputations (the FICHT is probably one of the more notorious ones) so avoid those...Even if you get a 'good one' the resale value will be hurt significantly. Remember, the boat is just a tool to take you to the fish...So make sure you get one that matches your fishing goals! Get your budget figured out, get your goals figured out, and then start looking. Narrow it down by brand once you start finding some that fit your goals. Look at as many as you can and keep an open mind...Whatever you do, don't fall in love with the first boat you look at! I've seen a few people do this and they ended up with something completely different that what they set out for, obviously regretting it. Don't get too caught up in what electronics/extras are on the boat, but don't pass up a great deal either. If a boat is a little out of your price range but comes with $3,000 worth of electronics, a brand new quality trolling motor, or with all of the previous guys fishing gear, it could end up being a better deal in the long run. After all that, if I were to rank the brands you listed...I'd put Stratos at the top (For obvious reasons haha)