22hertz

Doesnt CXX have a lot of memory? Is it similar to flouro in being wire like? Yo Zuri Hybrid seems like the closest competitor to Floroclear. Does flouro being bonded vs coated make a difference? I was reading reviews on AN40 earlier and it does look interesting. No doubt Floroclear isn't a strong line, but it can work with a rod with some flex and an angler that knows its limits. I will also say a couple days this spring I caught about 70 shad during the run while other anglers around me were catching 3 or 4. Im a believer in stealthy line and thats why I have put up with the cons of Floroclear for so long.

ss = Stainless Steel bearings I use Ballitsol oil and Super Lube grease. Use in extreme moderation.

EDIT: IM GOING TO TRY YOZURI HYBRID Who has the best price on a 600yd spool? I have been using 10lb Floroclear for a few years and have been sort of happy with it. I fish anywhere from completely clear water to clear with a touch of green tint and seem to get bit a lot when others aren't having any luck. I don't know if Im just lucky or the line is just that invisible causing line weary fish to bite. I cant tell you how many times I run into other anglers claiming to have no luck or see no one else not catching anything and Im tearing them up or catching bigger fish. When new it casts great, has low memory, seems invisible and I have pulled in some really big fish (20lb+ stripe bass, big cats and big LM Bass) with 10lb. If it didn't degrade so fast I would stick with it Having said that Floroclear seems to degrade quickly. After about the 6th fishing trip it starts having memory problems and I get more backlashes, which when picked out puts kinks all in the line and its all downhill from there causing me to have to respool. Sometimes I will cut off about 20-30 yds of line and its smooth sailing for a few more trips then back to problems. If I don't have hard backlashes (which isn't really all that often) the line starts getting overruns in any light wind and that just gets aggravating and starts getting expensive having to respool so often. I have also lost a lot of fish right at the kayak when grabbing the line about the lip them, the fish thrashes and the line (or maybe the knot) pops. Floroclear seems to have good static strength but low dynamic shock strength. I could solve that with a net but I digress. Im looking into another line to try. The problem is I don't know how much the invisibility of Floroclear plays a part in getting bit and Im hesitant to move to another line with more visibility to get a longer lasting line or a line with more strength. I bought some red label Floro and never spooled it. It was like wire. I bought some Daiwa J-braid but never spooled it. I didn't want to bother with tying a leader. Just seems like another point of failure and more aggravation. Im not sure what line to try next. I was thinking CX Premium might be worth a try. I think its similar to Floroclear but with less Floro coating but more strength? CXX might be worth a try but I read its got lots of memory and visibility should be much more than Floroclear. I know there is no free lunch, and there is always a trade off. Should I stick to Floroclear and deal with the negatives to get bit more or try something else? If so what line would you suggest?

I ordered the Revros and Eagle Claw featherlight rod. I would have liked to try the air bail but in the end I wasn't willing to spend the extra $15 to get it. I had to order the rod sight unseen since no one had one in stock locally. Normally I wouldn't do that but at $25 plus a little shipping I figure its worth taking the gamble. Hopefully I like the rod for its intended purpose which will be mostly a backpacking/camping/ living in the trunk of my car rod and reel. I also wanted a rod that would make small fish feel like fighting bigger fish. I also wanted something durable that could take some abuse. Thanks for the replies guys. If anyone is interested in how the rod and reel perform Im taking a trip to the mountains in 2 weeks for some stream trout fishing, then will be heading to a beautiful small mountain lake for a day of fishing before heading back home so I should have a good idea of how this combo performs.

A note on the roof rack. Yes its overpriced, and no its not made with top materials or design. Actually my Yakima J-cradle pads started tearing after 3 months of use and the clips on the rear didn't fit my car like they were supposed to and I had to add some leather spacers to get them to clamp down properly. Having said that securing the kayak to my car is very easy and makes a big difference after a long, tiring day of fishing. You're already worn out from paddling out, fighting wind, fighting fish, casting all day, and paddling back. I tried ratchet strapping the kayak to my car a couple times and it sucks. It takes what feels like forever to get things situated and secured. Putting a kayak flat on the roof of a car by yourself is a pain. With the roof rack and J-cradle I can throw the kayak in the cradle and have it strapped in less than 5 minutes and its sitting on its side which is how you want the kayak to protect it from oil canning. I highly discourage anyone from strapping a kayak on a roof rack without proper carriers. That can damage a kayak, especially in the heat. To save money I bought everything online on sale except the carriers. Amazon had the bars cheaper than anywhere I could find and REI was running a sale on the Q-clips and towers. I skipped the locks which should have been included for the price. My brother has the same rack and bought the locks. The locks can be easily defeated.

This topic is relevant to my interests. I am looking at buying one of these two models and comparing them the difference is the cv model supports 260/455/800 kilohertz frequency, has 100 watts additional power, draws 170mA more current and includes a different transducer. I have never used or owned a fish finder and would be interested in responses of if the higher frequency makes any tangible difference. It looks like the advantage to the higher frequency is a clearer view of what the radar 'sees', but the radar cone is more narrow looking at less of a radius. Does the higher resolution really matter?

Eagle Claw Featherlight rod and Daiwa Crossfire spinning reel. The rod is durable and quality for an inexpensive price. The reel is smooth without breaking the bank.

I've handled them in the store. I liked and bought the Tournament ZX rod over the Arachnid. The Arachnid rods were more stiff than the ZX rods and felt a little heavier in my hands. Go check them out. We all have different preferences so you may like these rods.

I have handled the Revros, and its smooth, but cant find the RG anywhere. The Revros 2000 is a little heavier at 8.3oz, 8 bearings and standard bail. Can be had $40 shipped The RG 2000 is slightly lighter at 7.9oz, 10 bearings and air bail. Can be had $55 shipped I haven't looked at spinning reels in a long time. Does the air bail make any difference in performance or is it a weight savings thing? Are the 2 extra bearings in important places or just something to put on a spec sheet to sell people on this reel? Anyone own both these reels that can compare the performance? Is the RG worth the extra $15? I wont use the reel much and am on an extreme budget where the $15 would almost cover the cost of the rod (Eagle Claw Featherlight rod) What do you think?

Its not for non-swimmers because the activation of the PFD takes a couple seconds. During that time you will go under, so the expectation is you should be able to swim for a few seconds while the pill is breaking down to release the firing pin.

I worked paint and body ages ago when putting myself through college. What I suggest is get a polisher, polisher pads, Meguiars M105 and M205. I also suggest some good sealant wax/glaze with UV protection. I have had good results with Klasse products but there are many good ones to chose from. Wash the boat real good making sure to remove any oils, dirt or other contaminants. If something is in the way it may be worth your time to remove it to get access to the entire surface for polishing. Cover everything near the area to be polished that will not get removed and wont get polished with tape so you don't hit it with the polisher and put swirl marks in it. Start with the M105 to remove the heavy oxidation. Finish with M205 to leave a mirror glass finish. Watch some videos on how to polish. Polishing a car is the same as polishing a boat so just find a couple good videos that explain well how to do it. I would polish the entire boat while Im at it but Im picky about things like this. It takes a lot of time but the results will be well worth the invested time.

I was a boy scout growing up and every year during summer camp I earned the mile swim badge. Looking at drowning statistics its strange how many people who drowned were proclaimed 'good swimmers'. I bought a Mustang MIT 100 PFD and put it on when getting into my kayak and it doesn't come off until Im back at the boat ramp. Many times I will get out onto the shore and walk around, stretch my legs and make a few casts and I still leave the PFD on. Its lack of bulk makes it easy to forget about and one less thing I have to think of or worry about while on the water.

I have the standard CT and cast 1/8oz spinners all the time. The SV should atleast match that and I would guess cast even lighter if your rod is rated for it.

The casting performance looks good.

A new kayak for $200 is hard to beat. I was once a college student so I know your pain financially. The best time to buy any used boat is sometime between fall and spring. If you can wait you might find a better kayak used in your price range. Many times a used kayak includes a paddle. The closest deal I am aware of in a new kayak is a Perception Pescador 12' for $400 when you catch them on sale. That's double what you're wanting to spend but worth it IMO if you can save a little more.

That Tatula SV spool will not work in the Tatula CT.

Here are two thoughts: The Tatula SV does not have a free floating spool. I don't know how much difference that makes but all other Daiwa SV reels are free floating as far as I know. My Tatula CT is a great reel for half the cost of a Tatula SV

Half the battle is finding out what works for you. If you know you prefer spinning your battle is half over Before spending big money on the Shimano check out the Diawa Revros. I was truly impressed fondling it in the store and its inexpensive.

SuperLube grease - gears and sliding parts Cals drag grease - drag Ballistol oil - bearings

No one with any experience with a baitcaster is getting constant birdsnests. That simply isn't true. I was put off reading about all the adjustments and backlashes with a baitcaster before I bought my first, but it was no big deal and turned out I liked the baitcaster much more than I thought I would. When I go miles out in my kayak I usually only bring one baitcaster. If I was having any problems I wouldn't bring that one baitcaster because if something happened so bad that I couldn't use it my entire fishing trip would be ruined that day. Personally I think you should have spent the extra $20 and bought the Tatula CT. Its a fantastic reel and probably the best value in a baitcaster on the market. If your'e looking for a spinning reel Cabelas is having a sale on the Diawa Revros combo. I don't have much experience with spinning reels but was looking them over the other day, not looking at price or brand and the Revros easily felt like a $200+ reel. It felt way better than a President and felt as good as some of the high priced reels. Diawa seems to be knocking it out of the park lately with their quality for the price. The sale basically gets you the rod for free.

The budget will depend on the right kayak for you IMO. First you need to figure out what you want from one, then find the one that best matches your expectations. Buying used can knock some cash off and sometimes you can find a previous year leftover for a discount. I differ from some guys in that I wanted a faster kayak VS one stable enough to stand in. I wanted my yak to get me to spots a couple miles away quick and without wearing myself out. Paddling up a fast flowing river I made a good choice in buying a faster yak. My friends with slower kayaks have a much harder time paddling back upstream to the boat ramp while Im cruising right along. Another advantage is pointing the front of the kayak against the river flow I tend to stay in the same spot longer than the slower kayaks which drift off during a cast and retrieve. I still drift off but not as quick and maintaining my position is a lot easier. Don't forget to budget in the lightest paddle you can afford if you plan to make long trips or be out for hours. You're right a comfortable seat is a must. My Tarpon 120 seat starts to irritate me after about 3-4 hours in. My brothers cheap plastic kayak with molded in seat kills my back after every trip to the point where it is sore the entire next day. I bought a Mustang MIT100 inflatable PFD and am happy with the comfort and reputation for safety. For roof rack I got the basic Yakima round bar rack with JayLow carrier. Im happy with that system overall even though I feel its overpriced for what you're getting. It has held my yak securely for hundreds of miles at high interstate speeds and its easy to load and unload the yak with the carriers positioned on the side of the car. Do a lot of reading online to see what people like, and if you can find a place to try a few before you buy. I have let a few people try mine at the boat ramp. At 210 lbs I found my Tarpon 120 didn't like a lot of heavy gear in with me before it started to ride lower in the water and the performance suffered. Even though the weight rating says it should be fine what they don't tell you is the more weight you load up the lower the yak sits in the water and the more the yak pushes the water instead of cutting. I once put a small 60 lb kid in my yak and he flew around in it because the yak was sitting so much higher and had less weight (momentum) to overcome. I assume a kayak designed to carry more weight should be faster with a heavier person than one with a lower weight rating even if the lower rated kayak is a faster design, but thats only an assumption. One more thing to consider. Every time I go out in my kayak Im so glad I did a lot of research before buying anything. The kayak is a pleasure to paddle and fish out of. It has a good compromise between stability and speed and has adequate comfort for a few hours. The Werner paddle I bought has a light swing weight and suits my high angle paddling style and is efficient with stiff fiberglass blades that don't flex under power strokes. The roof rack is easy to load/unload and securely holds my yak at any speed and driving conditions. When Im out and the wind is blowing me all over the place causing me to make constant corrections the kayak corrects quickly and easily. I get frustrated using my brothers cheap kayak and cheap heavy plastic paddles for any distance and fighting the wind and current. Choose your gear wisely the first time and you will save money in the long run from not having to spend twice. Having said that you don't have to go broke getting a good setup. I have paddled a Perception Pescador 12 with a Bending Branches Angler classic paddle and it was nice for the money the guy spent. He caught the kayak on sale for $400 at Academy and bought the paddle used on Craigslist. He had about $520 invested in those two items and I felt it was a phenomenal value for the money spent. I cant say how the seat was over time since I only paddled it for 5 minutes but it wasn't as good as my Tarpon seat, but that could be replaced down the road. Good luck brother, and tight lines.

You just missed the sale on the Cabelas ZX Tournament rods for $70. Awesome rods for the money. When I was rod shopping I fondled every rod I could find over the course of a month. I finally narrowed it down to the Falcon Bucoo, Duckett Ghost and Cabelas Tournament ZX. The ZX was a no brainer for the price, warranty and feel/action. I found many popular rods didn't feel good to me so IMO its important to go look for yourself. Make sure to match the lure weight of the rod to the weight you plan to use. My 2 rods are rated 1/4-5/8 oz but they still load up enough to sling 1/8 spinners (which I assume weigh a little more than 1/8oz). I also prefer longer rods in the >7' range. For reels you should determine how much line you need the reel to hold. Smaller reels are lighter and palm better but hold less line. Those reels should have a lighter spool allowing lighter baits to be cast. Something you will be casting all day should be as light as possible and ergonomic in your hand. The Shimano Curado 70 would be a good choice if you can deal with the lower line capacity. A standard Curado 200I is a good all around reel. Check the auction site and comparison shop for better prices.

Went fishing with both reels again yesterday. The Tatula slings a 1/8oz inline spinner very well. Im getting somewhere around 70-80ft cast distance with the spinner. I also tried heavier baits with no difference in backlash/overrun performance. I get more distance with the heavier lure. This reel will backlash if not thumbed when the lure hits the water. I confirmed this over and over with different lure types and weights. Also I can not adjust the spool tension as the instructions say without getting spool overrun during the cast. The Tatula feels very smooth on the cast due to the way the brakes work. The reel is really very good for the price and I feel personal preference will dictate which reel someone prefers. I prefer the Shimano still. It feels more refined in ergonomics and cast control. Thats not a knock on the Diawa, more of a nod to the Shimano.

I don't get too wet in my Tarpon 120, as in Im not sitting in water or getting wet from my waist up, but I do drip water on my legs from water running off the paddle when paddling hard. If you can deal with that I suggest you try to catch a sale on the Perception Pescador 12. Academy Sports puts them on sale sometimes at $400. This kayak is the old Tarpon 120 mold. http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/perception-pescador-angler-12-sit-on-kayak#repChildCatid=1352017 If you cant handle that amount of getting wet check out the Perception Odyssey 11'6" sit inside. Sit inside kayaks are generally lighter than sit on top. This kayak has an actual seat, is long enough to track well and have some speed, its light, cheap at $400 and will be dry. http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/perception-odyssey-116-sit-inside-kayak#repChildCatid=3463504 I prefer sit on top and don't have trouble loading my Tarpon 120 by myself and don't mind the minimal drip from the paddle FYI.