poisonokie

I have 5 BC for bass. A L/MF bfs setup that's great for any technique from 1/16-1/4, dropshots included, a ML/MF for most techniques from 1/4-1/2, a M/M glass for 3/8-5/8 trebles, a MH/MF for 3/8-3/4 jigs/spinnerbaits, etc, and a H/F flip for 1/2-1 1/2 jigs, deep cranks, and frogs. That covers all my bases nicely and i can use braided line for everything, so my 2 spinning bass rigs just sit there. They're great for friends and responsible kids to use, though, so it's not a complete waste.

depends on water clarity and sources of abrasion

Yeah, you can find Megabass, major craft, gan craft, and others fairly easily. Some are almost impossible, though. I'd love to get my hands on a jdm steez or Daiwa black label plus, but short of booking a flight to Tokyo it doesn't look like I will.

I'm not either. I'm just saying that you won't have to spend as much in the first place if you aren't getting a huge warranty. If you take good care of your tackle, you'll still get a lifetime of use out of it and be able to put what you saved toward the same rod in another power/length/action instead of subsidizing that rod for some idiot and his errant car door. You get more for your money that way.

I don't understand why you guys are always saying something to the effect of, "I spent $600 on a JDM Steez rod and it's awesome, but I know I don't catch any more fish with it than I did on the Ugly Stik junk I used to fish with, but that's okay..." That must mean you're the world's best angler with crap tackle or the world's worst with enthusiast grade gear. I, for one, know I catch more and better fish using higher quality, technique appropriate tackle than I ever did with my bargain bin browning combo. I'm not saying you can buy yourself into being a better fisherman, necessarily, but it certainly doesn't hurt. After all, if you can't feel a bite or set a hook or rely on a smooth drag and rod action to play a fish, you might as well use that rod to club those fish out of the water. Don't write off your passion for quality fishing gear as pure enthusiasm. If it wasn't landing you lunkers, it'd be decorating the wall of some other guy's man cave.

lol, its all good. I do the same thing. hmmm... I don't know what would cause that, then. How does it cast?

I think they have confidence in every part of their product except the nut behind the reel. Better to sell more rods at a lower price and let the consumer take care of their own stuff.

No, I mean did you upgrade the spool to a 1016 or is it the same one it came with? If so, read post 15.

does the MX come stock with the same spool as the ballistic? To make the 1016 work in the ballistic I had to find a way to increase spool tension. It's not something you think about at first since they don't need much mechanical braking, but I think the spool shaft on the 1016 is a bit shorter. If you have an old MasterCard, cut out one of the circles on the MasterCard logo. It fits perfectly down inside the cast control cap and shims it up. I noticed I had to back the tension way off my 1016 to get an sv spool to fit for just the opposite reason.

I know it, even a big single colorado spinnerbait can take it out of you after a while.

Okay, so if you look at surf casting reels or euro spec carp reels, you'll see that the spool is both shallow and long. That allows the angler to make longer casts while maintaining a respectable amount of line because friction on the lip of the spool is minimized. The downside of that setup is the mechanical disadvantage of increased torque on the reel when the spool is at the peak of its oscillation.

Is it that new svf zillion? I still haven't heard any firsthand accounts of what those are like. I bet they couldn't be much better if the tatulas are any indication.

which spool is in that MX with the uneven line lay?

Yeah, that's probably it. Could be that the part that saddles the pinion gear is upside down, too.

I wouldn't have any spinning outfits save 1 for trout in winter.

I can go down to about 1/10th with either of my sv reels and really that's lower than I ever really intend to. An eighth and up is great for bass. To me anything lighter is trout territory and I cheap out on that because I only do it when it's cold and the bass are nowhere to be found, so a bps micro lite UL with a 500 size Laguna fills that niche for me. The SV spools I have are incredible for 1/8th and up. Especially 1/4, which is around where is stay for small cranks, but it will launch a Ned rig or a spinbait, too, and I can use braid,, so I couldn't be happier with them.

I hear Daiwa is easy to deal with, fortunately I've never had to, though.

what's the matter with it?

I use either a major craft volkey 68L/bfs or ms-x 65ml, and 20# power pro super slick with an 8# invizx leader if the water is clear or if I'm around rip rap. Sometimes I'll go up to 10# red label, but no lighter than that 8#. It's the same diameter as other 6# lines. There's also room enough on my spool for a long leader for vertical dropshotting.

I'd look into a Tatula for sure. The 6'10" mh/f, 7'1" mh/r or mh/xf are good bets depending on the line you use. I use the 711mhrb as a general purpose single hook rod with 50# braid.

I have a t3 1016 with an sv1000 shallow spool and hedgehog air bearing and it makes a killer bfs reel on a major craft volkey 68L/bfs. Before that with the stock spool I used it for basically everything from pitching jigs to cranks. I also have a t3 ballistic with that 1016 spool and abec 5 bearings on a 7'7" composite cranking rod. Does the job exceedingly well and the extra weight in the driveshaft helps balance the rod better. The magforce 3d makes it a very versatile reel. Definitely my personal favorite.

I think you should look into a Shimano Calais DC mounted on a Gan Craft Dead Sword Magnum. Maybe just a standard Dead Sword for the lady...

I like to use them on a Jika Rig with a 3/8 weight and a 5/0 hook around rip rap and brush. I also like to throw them weightless or rage rigged after a frog blow up.

They definitely put some variety into your day.