Angry John

Brand of rod model number and or a picture will help out a lot. Most Internet sales screens tell you most of what you need to know.

It's winter so lines will be a little more difficult to manage. It's also a great time to downsize your line and use thinner wire hooks. They have a lot less fight and are not going to bite near as agressive. Look into something like 10 lb xl for the winter period. Kvd l and l may help and seemed to keep the ice from building up as much. My next outing I am going to shoot some directly on the guides to see if it helps.

What is your definition of a large swim bait is a great place to start. Are we talking a deps 250 or hinkle shad or are we talking medium and small swim baits. Say we make a defined cutoff of 3 Oz from medium to large. It's an arbitrary number but this can turn into its own topic. At that weight your looking at the deps 175, the swiaiver 168 and 200 along with other known producers like the Matt lures hard gill. This is a great range for options and at this size your still in a good area to appeal to a large section of the bass. A flipping stick or frog rod can handle most of these baits. The dobyns 735 I believe is an extra fast rod which might not be grate for the larger baitts. Something in the moderate fast range would be ideal all around. One to try on that dobyns would be the Huddleston shad. I fish that on a st Croix le70mhf. It's a great weedless bait that is fairly cheap and produces well. You may want to try the trash fish 6" with owner beast hook on that rod also. There is a huge difference between these and truly large baits. The smaller ponds will do well with this sized bait and may provide your fish some first time looks depending on who else is fishing in your area.

Same as every top water black, brown and white for your first three. Matching your native species may be possible and that's always a good bet. Live target makes some very nice realistic paterns.

I would have to agree on the sv idea, but how many people today now cannot drive stick shift. People want easy and for people who have never used a reel prior to sv may never know that they could be missing something. Get enough new guys needing the technology then it just becomes the way. It's a real good marketing long term strategy. I can't get into the tws thing but there are plenty of good reels from daiwa to have that don't have it.

Road warrior uses there blanks he would be a good person to talk to.

It will absolutely work just use a smaller frog to help out. http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Spro_Dean_Rojas_Bronzeye_Baby_Popper_Frog_50/descpage-SBEPP50.html

You can use basic lite machine oil. You should clean the bearings before switching as there may be a compatibility issue. Synthetic oil being better than not. If you can find sewing machine oil it will work just fine. If your into shooting the thin gun oil works also.

Then we can sell him on the xx perfect pitch as the right frog rod

So you can use cheaper component's and try and beat the factory but that's like trying to beat an index with a mutual fund. It can be accomplished but not successful very often. I think the factory gides are overkill and ti/sic are good enough. If your downgrading to Alconite then there is real savings. Some nrx rods have recoils and still sell for the same price. To me that's a ripoff. A custom may or may not have a warranty but a factory rod is guaranteed.

I am not talking about generating power. Take two trucks wit the same power back to back. The one with the higher tow hitch will win. Lifting is what I am talking about. If you pull them up and out you win more often. I get fulcrum but not what I am saying.

I like at least a 7' for frogs. I lift up during the fight and i feel it gives me a lot of leverage to get them out. I also like the longer rod for line speed when setting the heavy double hooks. Frogs are hard to get a good set due to the wire diameter and having to drive two hooks. Now if your using a smaller frog then you should be ok...

You cannot build a custom for the same price as a factory rod . If you dont know exactly what you want the factory rods hold way better value for trade or resale to try again. I am all about customs but there needs to be a reason. For me its handle length...

Never had great luck with flouro knots and it always breaks at the knot when I do brake off. Sometimes that's a good thing.

I just got back and it's 26 here. No bites at all . Good to hear your thinking ahead and being safe.

There the same blank. Split grips with smaller guide vs full handle and standard guides. This is the only difference. I go full handle. Amazing jig rods.

Your trading knot strength for sink rate

Kvd 1.5 bluegill

Yozuri and cxx are both great lines. Not topwater lines at all imo. They seem to be more dense than standard mono and sink to much dragging the lure down. Otherwise very versatile.

Add to this in all seasons and then I suck. Dog days and mid winter I struggle a lot.

Basic knowledge on fishing i will help, area information i got nothing. Step one get a different line.

The big mistake is just a tango prop. The rear prop gets hung up on a treble a lot and i swapped out the rear hook to the owner treble replacement hook. Its a decent bait and gets bit...

Do you need another rod most likely not. Could you have two rods that split the 4 or more tasks that your trying to accomplish, yes. One rod with braid for punching and frogs while the other does what you do with it already would make it easier. It just depends on how much you do these things if it will be worth the added cost. In my yak i dont like to bring a bunch of rods 3 or less and when in a boat i bring 5. If you want to run braid to leader for your secondary usages then running 40 or 50 lb braid main line would work the best. Not a ton of heavy veg where i am at and never need more than 40. I still have rods with 65 and i can cast a frog a long way even on 65. The reason i would recommend 40 is for the knot size for your more used techniques.

Call them directly they have the info and are great to talk to.

Any reason to get the x over the regular? If you are running a leader the standard would be better or if your far enough north to deal with ice. My LE is a 70mhf and my favorite to date jig rod. I do run a steez reel so that makes the rig very lite. I am not going to split hairs about how much feel you get between the models listed but if your interested TT has a good review. Only difference would be the handle if you get the X. http://www.tackletour.com/reviewstcroixlegendeliteec70mf.html