atomicchicken

I'm looking at soon replacing the trolling motor on my boat and stumbled upon trollingmotors.net. Does anyone here have first hand experience with this on-line store? I did a forum search and it's fairly minimal results and also nothing really recent. Hopefully I'm posting this in the correct spot.

Direct from Pelican.... https://www.confluenceoutdoor.com/en-ca/products/fishing-boat-handles/PS0136

Yeah my trucks bed is 6 1/2'. I was prepared to bring it up higher if i had to. It's not going anywhere. Made from pressure treated wood. The crossmember is angled so that it mates with the bottom of the boat at the same angle. Like I said, It supports the boat with the tailgate down so I can load cargo under it.

When I tow my bumper-pull camper I also often times will have my bass raider 10e in the bed of my truck. What I did was built a cross member for the rear of the bed that has uprights that sit in the two rear post holes. This causes the rear of the boat to be raised enough to not interfere with the camper. I will jack-knife the trailer before the boat touches it! Works like a charm and it allows me to put down the trail gate to pack gear beneath the rear of the boat. If needed I know I have a picture of the setup somewhere.

ah sorry about that. Yeah there's a few here and there in this thread showing off pictures of the bass raider with carpet over plywood floors and pedestal seating. Makes for a nice upgrade.

Look at page 79 of this thread. jaaron01 did just that. There are countless other examples in the thread of similar projects.

I'm curious how these little boats handle with small outboards speed wise. I know they still wouldn't be a rocket on the water but I'm wondering if a 2.5 HP outboard is worth it? I'm currently running a 50lb trolling motor and was thinking of maybe purchasing a small outboard for getting me from point A to B.

Someone in this thread showed one they did with a C-clamp attached to it. Just an idea to keep it in place.

jaaron01, that looks really nice. I love the compartments!

Is that site up? I can't access it.

Some time ago I replaced the ring terminals at the rear of the boat with a female mar-lan plug like what is in the front of the boat. I finally got around to mounting it properly on the inside wall of the boat. I run the trolling motor at the rear but with the mar-lan connectors at the front and rear of the boat it makes it easy if i want to run the trolling motor at the front. I have a pigtail I made for my battery box with a male mar-lan plug. I'm using the Minn-Kota power center so I did away with the in-line fuse.

I run mine on the rear because that's how I prefer it.

If I'm not mistaken it's 8 AWG.

Your weight really is what's going to keep them in the channels. That black cap more or less gives a finished edge to the tubing. You could contact them and see if they could mail one out to you or if the end of the tube is sharp wrap a couple of rounds of electrical tape on it.

I've had the power center since I purchased my bass raider.

Which fuse holder melted? The one that is in line with the boats wiring or the one e. built into the battery box?

Love the use of the clamp there.

I guess it depends how strong dura bond is and what it is you're asking it to hold. I don't see much of a problem putting holes into it as long as it's on the upper-half of the hull. Prolonged exposure of water to that half would mean your seam is under water which means those little screw holes aren't your biggest intake of water at that point! I've added a paddle clip to mine on the inside of the boat and I'll be adding a couple of rod holders to it as soon as I get the chance. Use a sealant along with the screws into the holes and you should be fine.

I'll back down the boat ramp until I'm about the boat lengths away from the water. I pull the boat out almost all the way and put the end down with the other end still resting on the tailgate. I'll then take that end and swing it off and out of the truck. Then I attach my trolling motor and put the battery in and then proceed to move the boat into the water. For that I just walk each end into the water. After unloading from the truck I'm at the waters edge so it's quick to get it floating. I reverse the process to load it back into the truck. It's quick and easy enough for me. I like to keep things as simple as possible.

I only have a trolling motor right now and even that I don't keep on the transom when the boat is traveling behind my truck. I see it as unnecessary stress. Can't say how much stress from it there is but even balanced on there I doubt it's actually good for it. When I get an outboard I'll do the same. I think the only way I would keep an outboard mounted would be if I transported the boat via trailer and had a support on the trailer for the outboard. I'll sit back and see what those that actually have an outboard though do with theirs...

I have only had mine for a couple of months now but my 8 year old son and I are enjoying the heck of out of it. It's small enough to load up in the back of my truck and pull the camper while it's back there which is exactly what I was looking for.

I think I've almost read all the posts in the thread. Great collection by the way. How does the Bass Raider 10E handle with a 3.5 HP outboard? Does the transom hold up? Right now I'm using a 50lb thrust Minn Kota trolling motor on my Bass Raider. I'm curious if a 3.5 HP outboard would decrease travel time when heading to fishing spots?