Andy007

I agree with this, most bass lures are heavy enough to cast from any guide setup. But lighter the lure fine tuning might help? But then I which rods. My original was a bit confusing, my runners will be size 5 minimum and I should have been clearer that I was just questioning the chocking guides. That's pretty much what I had in mind with the responses.

Going to build a 7 foot ML spinning rod and will use 10# braid max and casting light plastics. I was going to start with a high 16 and work my way down to size 5 runners but maybe smaller could be better? Was reading a couple posts down (Drop shot blank) and a couple posters mentioned using smaller Fuji K high series guides. Using a 200 series reel how small can I start with? is size 12 to small? or can I go down to 10? How about a light rod with 4# braid and Crappie jigs? Thanks and have a happy annual turkey population reduction day!!

Cost is a factor; I can afford a 400 dollar rod but try to find good value for the buck. I believe with the fierce competition in the fishing world if the correct components are purchased and assembled correctly the final product will perform close for much less. I’m one of those that over question and research things, but this rod will be used hundreds of times and catch thousands of fish! That makes an extra $50 for a rod seam irrelevant, but that just me. Soon enough I will start blowing the kids inheritance but maybe till then if they’re looking for Christmas Ideas? Thanks Mick, DVT and others for your input, Good advise given by many on these boards! I'll try to do a follow up next year after the ice melts

I will be using some of the handle components like Mick suggested and small and light running guides. This will be a spiral wrapped casting rod and when done will be balanced and hopefully light tipped. For an example Rainshadow makes a 6'10mxf in the Immortal and Eternity2, the spec's are close except the immortal weighs about 20% more(1.4 vs 1.7 oz) and the eternity cost double. I agree and believe that excess blank weight is a killer but I would hope buy spending more also increases material quality? You have lots of experience with different blanks, do you think sensitivity has more to do with weight or materials? What do you consider a upper mid level blank? Examples? Thanks

Yes I will be using small and light running guides toward the tip, carbon fiber or cork foregrip, make the rod balance where I what and no fancy wraps just a rod for function. Much difference between the Immortal and Eternity2?

Blank price vs sensitivity? I’m going to build a 6’10 to7’2 extra fast for light t-rigs. I have a blank picked but after more digging on the web I have a sensitivity question. St Croix, MHX and Rainshadow (and others) have a similar blank Action, length, line wt. and blank weight. How does a MHX compare to a revelation blank (about $75) MHX high modulus to immortal to Eternity2 or SCIII (about 100-130 dollars) Or the above to a St Croix SCV (about 200 bucks) This will be one of my most used rods and don’t mind spending more for noticeable sensitivity increase. I guess my question is the differences miner or huge? I know this a question that will vary from person to person and hand to hand just generally speaking. Thanks for your opinions ....

Mick and Ghoti Thanks again for the ideas, this rod will be built for function and won't look nearly as nice as some of yours. I might pick up some rigged poly and play with it a bit, I would need at least 1.1" diameter min And maybe offset to the bottom of the blank and maybe some finger indents? I know this will complicate the epoxy stage, but can always redo or though on shrink wrap( which I been thinking of trying also). I probably won't post photo's but I'll try to remember to let know how it fishes, at this point that won't happen till after iceout next year I agree that the slower action rods are much more forgiving of human error. I fish light line with the drag set close to the breaking point. If I have a decent fish at the boat that wants to shack I better be lowering the rod a bit or take the chance of snapping my line, the faster or stiffer the rod the more forgiving I need to be. If I wasn't fishing just for fun my setups would be heaver so I could just horse them into the boat, but for me playing a nice fish on light setups.....Priceless!!

For a foregrip is needed, I hold the rod by it and like the OD a little larger for comfort. I like the idea using a larger reel seat shim and epoxy. Will it hold up for the main handhold and is it slippery when wet? I also would thing EVA foam would adsorb more vibrations than cork. But don't if our hands could tell the difference. Thanks for the Ideas! I wanted to try the immortal line but they don't make a ML XF just a medium XF, but maybe they will soon?

I'm close to that layout....I built a couple mag tapers last winter and use a spiral wrap with a spinning spacing so I could use less guides towards the tip. Fuji #8 sv striper and #6 L's for transition and running guides and turned out quite well. Will probably use smaller running guides this time. On the subject light and sensitive...........foam vs cork? Does one deaden or transmit vibrations more? I don't palm the reel and hold the rod by the fore grip so that's the one that counts! Might have do a split grip on the butt so I get a good balance. Thanks Andy

I agree they could have tried to push me towards more expensive blanks, and we did talk quite some time about the Eternity series also which I started and was interested in. He stated the quality from immortal to eternity was a big step, but the price tag is about double also. The conversation wasn't pushy or rushed and very informative; I was very pleased with their service!

Thanks for your input!! The 6’6 jig spin blank I have isn’t very fast either. Gave a call to Rainshadow and they suggested revelation 6’10 ML XF. It’s a newer blank and isn’t listed on the website yet. He said when used like what I’m looking for it comes back with good reviews. After talking with them and reading more forum post I’m getting swayed more towards using a faster blank. Also when talking with Rainshadow he stated sensitivity between the revelation and immortal banks weren’t much different. For those of you that have built or use both would you say the same? To many choices for something that won’t make much difference in the long run!

I would like to build a dedicated rod for light T-rigs plastics. It will have a spiral wrap design and use 10# braid. 90% of the time I'll be using a 1/8oz weight plus plastics. It will be used for weedless light fineness (outer deeper weeds and open water just beyond the weed line). 5 years ago I used a Rainshadow 6’6 med jig spin blank and work real good for this type of fishing, great sensitivity. I have read good things about the Immortal line and kinda narrowed my selection down a bit, not set in stone and opens to ideas if I’m headed in the wrong direction! IMMWS72ML Walleye series 7’2 ml fast IMMS72ML Bass spin 7’2 ml fast (maybe the m fast) IMMS610MXF Bass spin 6’10 extra fast (read great things about this blank) Looking for your input or experience’s with any of these blanks. Thanks for your help!!

I fish jigs and t-rigs the same way....Slow.... I'm a line watcher and as mentioned before sometimes bite detection can be tough especially in thick weeds. Like in the video I have always put a little tension on them to remove slack and better hook set. If the weed doesn't feel quite right, put a little tension on and wait, usually in a few seconds the fish will give you a sign (little tap or pump). I see this more with bigger fish than small ones.

I myself have been switching and using baitcasters more in the past year. Bought a few (under 30 shipped) used off ebay that come with a good reputation with aluminum frames. Some newer low profile and some round ones from the 90's. I also bought my lady a Lew's tournament MB. They all cast and feel a little different but the overall function and performance are close. You hit something or cast to hard without using your thumb the birdie will give you a visit. The lighter the lure the more your thumb plays a role. I have also played with buddies $300 reel, very nice but in the long run no day or night difference. Some have mentioned combos in the previous post that are in your price range and have a good reputation. Which ever way you choose keep the brakes on the tight side and train the thumb plus google "removing baitcaster birds nest", watch a few videos and removing the birds nest will be much quicker and easier. Good luck!

Maybe I'm lucky? I have 10# on a Abu Garcia 4600c, 3600 and 1600, pro qualifier and Lew's tournament MB with the drags set close to breaking point without one dig in.

I have always believed in using the lightest line possible! For bass I've been using 10# power pro on spinning and casting reels without and digging in issues what so ever. Even when deep into the cabbage it works well. Have tried lighter (6#) for bass but it's not always strong enough to cut through the weeds, but in open water works great. I do retie quite often because of the low abrasion resistance and toothy critters. I do loose some because of the low test but really don't care that much. I believe I get more bites with lighter line to offset lost fish.

I built a 7’ MHX ML and loaded it with 10# braid that has been used for small and large chatter baits, Texas rigged plastics, crankbaits up to ¾ oz. and bass jigs with plastic trailers. No problems with hook sets. A heavier rod works better to work jigs when deep into the cabbage or snapping crankbaits through thicker weeds, but in open or sparse weeds catching fish is about the same.

Lots of good info has been give and thought I should add to the mix? I started to make the switch to baitcasters last year. I mostly fish 10lb braid and many people complained about light braid digging into its self, so I couldn’t see spending a 100 or more and finding out the line I like won’t work. So I turned to eBay and bought a few reels that have a good quality reputation on these forums. Abu Garcia pro max 1600 &3600, Abu Garcia 4600c, and a couple Bass Pro Qualifiers. The most expensive one was around 31 bucks. (Lots of other good brands and models made, this is just where I stated.) Most had to be cleaned and one pawl replaced, other than that they’re in great mechanical shape. Out of those reels I prefer the 4600c and pro qualifier with the pro qualifier being a little easier casting into the wind. Long story short, and as mentioned before there can be good value in buying used! And through these forums the pro qualifier keeps coming up as one of the best reels for the money. The down side of used is you’ll probably have some maintenance. If you have a little time they are pretty simple to work on. But a quality easy casting reel for $30 might be a good start. Many choices, Good luck!

Ok you've talked me out trying trolling a drop shot rig....LOL That's about the exact setup I was thinking might work, maybe little less between hook and sinker but that'll change as ware the fish are holding. Maybe some form of paddle tail or grub on the hook. May when I said trolling I should have said with a trolling motor 1 to 1 ½ MPH. Thanks for the help..

Some days the bass and walleye are mixed and not sure which is biting till you set the hook, could also be a pike or Muskie. Trolling a drops shot type rig is like a three way or bottom bouncer without a long hook line. Might not work but thinking it could be worth a try. Have read that some people use that technique for crappies.

Usually troll lindy rigs tor walleye. Pretty much the same.

I’ve been reading forums and articles about drop shot and power shotting technique for bass and walleye. I can’t find much info about trolling, just casting and working it back to the boat. One of the lakes I fish regularly hold walleye’s and bass on the outside 15 to 17 foot weed line. Some days fishing plastics for bass we’ll hook some walleye’s or trolling for walleye we’ll catch bass. Could be a dumb idea I’m thinking when the bass are out and deep and the walleye’s are aggressive slow trolling and hopping the bottom weight presentation could be a good multi species technique? I’m a plastics guy but guessing could work with live bait also. Planning on giving this a try this summer and your thoughts or experiences would be helpful! Thanks

Any particular reason? For single hooks or a leader snap, I've used the feet part of the guides on a couple rods for years without troubles. It keeps the hook covered up really nice.

Thanks........ that's what I was thinking. I'm going to use a double foot for the stripper which will also be used for my hook keeper, add some running guides and fill in the spiral. It may be simple or revolver, from what I've read it does'nt much matter. Thanks again!!

Putting together an order for my first attempt at a spiral wrapped rod. The blanks will be 7' MHX mag taper in ML and MH. I will be using 10# braid on the ML and 20# braid max on the MH. Was planning in a Fuji double foot model LM or MN size 8 for the stripper? One or two transition guides in size 6 and Fuji's model L size 6 for running guides. Do these transition guides get much to stress put on them? If strength is needed for the transition should the first running guide also be double footed also? After reading many posts and looking at photos of rods being built both ways, I'm seeking some advice from you experienced builders and users. Just guessing, but on these lighter duty rods I'm over thinking? Thanks and have a good day!