Bass-Addict

Yup exactly what’s happening w me. So apparently a known issue w Daiwa?

So larger reels like a 300, even if higher IPT than my 200 will still give me less input/speed of my chop?

Unfortunately the 300 felt better, mostly due to ergonomics - balance w the 7’6” Heavy rod and the larger knobs on the handle. I can’t seem to figure out why it continues to fail though.

Unfortunate. What issues?

I currently have both a Tatula 300 and Curado 200XGK. The Tatula is 7.1:1, the Curado is 8.5:1. I have been using the Tatula for my Swimbait setup, however the clutch spring or pinion yoke has failed causing the thumb bar to stick so I’ve swapped it with the Curado. Spooled with 20 lb fluoro. It seems to be doing the trick, just curious how these different metrics translate to better control and speed of the bait. Which of these two reels would achieve this, would an 8 speed 300 sized reel be ideal or overkill for the 2 oz Chad Shad/Bull Shad?

I think I figured out my problem, I was using the reg twistlock not the light!

I am using a left handed reel matter of fact. How exactly are you suggesting this could result in me damaging the pinion yoke? I believe when I had it cleaned something with the clutch needed to be fixed, perhaps this was what it was and I did it again.

I got a Tatula 300 that at first I couldn’t say enough good things about. After not even one full season I experienced the button sticking, to where it would not fully compress releasing the line and when I cast it would pop back out and bring my bait to a screeching halt. I had it cleaned once, at this point I’m considering switching back to my Curado.

10 lb is too visible in a river?

See I tried the twist lock and the Gamakatsu but it seems like the hook point was not flush with the back of the fluke.

Have you tried the little silicone bait stopped beads? I think Harmony makes some.

Thanks! What would you recommend for the regular 5” super fluke, 3/0 or 4/0? Mind blown! Have you tried these?

I’ve tried Gammy & Owner and the hook point comes up at a 45 degree angle and is exposed so it isn’t weedless, rather than flush and parallel to the back of the plastic. I like the action but they rip off of the traditional EWG hooks way too quickly, it’s really irritating.

Do you not have an issue with the twist lock hook point not being flush with the back of the bait? I tried both the twist lock and the Gamakatsu version same deal, they do not fit the 5” super fluke and point upward exposing the hook point. They are a good fit for the caffeine Shad.

I think both have good action, fluke obv superior

So I was out yesterday and noticed it was very slow going up until right around 5, and they turned on like a light. Found giant fish in inches of water, super fast current. But the entire rest of the day was very tough, a few small bites here and there on tube/fluke, not much moving action. Granted it was bluebird, water was 65 but even in mixed clouds/sun, do you find during the day unless it’s raining/overcast that moving bite is less effective and a Jerkbait or fluke is necessary or more effective?

Moderate fast gives you more control of a walking bait than fast? Now I’m confused.

St Croix MH Moderate Fast vs Fast

Yeah I have been throwing walking baits a lot, does fast action lend itself better to this technique?

I would say spinning, medium-med heavy but you could use a casting rig as well.

Well that’s the thing is I don’t know that I wouldn’t get more bites with invisibility?

I throw big hard bodied swimbaits like the Chad Shad and Bull Shad on a 7’6” Heavy (1-4 oz) casting rod w a Daiwa Tatula 300 spooled with 20 lb Big Game. For the most part I find this works pretty well, casts well enough and minimal-no backlash. It seems many prefer fluoro on these setups, any particular reason why?

Sweet, thx 🤙🏼 Any particular brand you’d recommend?

So you don’t even use GP w purple flake, you go darker?

Interesting, for any plastics or just tube?