mheichelbech

Excellent point! I have been looking at boat bags and waterproof duffel bags. I like them because they flatten down nice and low.

Thanks...I looked at the Advanced Angler bag at BPS. They had a 3650 bag that looked like it would work. I have 3 things in mind: 1) Solving the issue of "where did I put that" without having to go through everything to find terminal tackle. Currently I am storing swimbait hooks and jigs with my swimbaits, tube jigs and hooks with my tubes, and worm hooks and weights with my worms and craws, and a separate small box with just hooks which is a pain because it is stuffed. 2) I fish as a co-angler either in tournaments or just with friends on their boats a lot. 3) I want to have everything I need (assuming I'd swap things out seasonally) in one bag with easy access and good organization so I don't have to dig around looking for stuff. The 3600 bag works for my boxes but just isn't enough room for all my soft plastics...I need something with big pockets to hold those as I have a hard time culling plastics. Thanks...I looked at that. I'd like to find something with more pockets. I think the Shimano Borland bag was the best except for it being $139.95!!!! Why is it that my best solutions are always the most expensive???

Thanks...yea I have a very old BPS 3700 bag. I'd love to find something (along with boxes) in between that and the 3600 size bag. I could bungee my jig box on top if it wouldn't fit.

Looking for info/advice on a new tackle bag and maybe utility boxes. I am currently using a BP 3600 tackle bag (stuffed to the gills) with 3 3600 utility boxes and a too small box to hold my hooks. Just bought the Plano Edge jig box which is a 3700 size box. I need a bigger bag but it is very hard to gauge the size of all the different bags and what they will hold just looking online. Also, not sure if it'd be better to go the Flameau route. Ideally I'd like to find some utility boxes that are in between the 3600s and 3700s along with a bag that could hold accordingly with plenty of good sized pockets to hold swimbaits and other soft baits. I was looking at the Shimano Borona which is 18.75x10.75x10.5 and is said to hold 3 3700s. This seems like the perfect bag for fishing as a co-angle in bass tournaments. Plus it has space on top and the side pockets along with a Molle type system for attaching stuff as well. However, that thing is $139. Love to find something like that but cheaper as I figure a lot of that is paying for the name Shimano on the side. Love my Shimano reels but they aren't paying me so I don't feel the need to openly advertise for them at an exorbitant price tag. Anyhow, any experience and recommendations appreciated. I guess I am basically looking for something that could hold 3700 boxes but isn't so big that any fishing partner/boat owner won't look at me and giggle for bringing along a suitcase to fish with. Btw, yes, I do know in those circumstances I could chat with the boater to see what kind of fishing he plans to do the day before and reduce my tackle need accordingly. I also have my own boat so I need something to fit both needs. Thanks!

Wondering most effective way to store my terminal tackle. I have trouble remembering where I put everything sometimes....tube jigs, swim bait heads, etc. What I’m trying this year is putting my tube jigs with my tubes, swim bait hooks and jig heads with my swim baits and then storing regular hooks, sinkers, etc in a small box. How does anyone else do it? For those that use a terminal box, has that been very effective, can you get everything in it? Any good input appreciated.

A lot of places I fish in late Fall and late Winter will have shad in coves...especially those with deeper water near the bank. I've had good success pitching jigs into beaver piles and other thick cover that hovers over water that is 10-15 feet deep on the outer edges. I have always thrown a jig and pork. However, I've been thinking about trying a swim jig with a swim bait trailer like a Keitech or other light colored paddle tail to emulate a shad instead of a crawdad. Has anyone ever done this and had success? It seem to me like it should work however, I know in these situations, I might get 7/8 bites the whole day. But of course, those 7/8 bites are normally big fish. With so few bites, it can hard to determine if a bait is working or not working as there are days when I get no bites or very few. As such, I am trying to piggyback off anyone else who may have tried this.

For most techniques, I am very reluctant to change. I use the same squarebills, same spinnerbaits, same worms, same floating worms and same craws. Where I fall down and this is crazy, is jigs. The jigs I have historically used (Stanley) continue to catch fish as well as any new bait however I buy at least $50 or more in new jigs every season thinking something will be better and I never fail to fall back to my good old Stanley jigs. The only other "new" thing I've gotten into are the swim baits such as the Keitechs. I bought about 10 Terminator Titanium spinnerbaits back when they came out (many years ago) and those continue to serve me very well. Never had one break and guessing they never will. I imagine that's why the quite making them!

The better question may be is it worthwhile to buy a older used high end reel or a new lower end reel at the same price. You can buy and older Chronarch or metanium mg for around $100 or less. Are these reel better than the $100/$150 reels of today?

Yea I used to use those and switched to the 3600s. Was thinking about changing back again. I do change things out seasonally. My setup for late winter/early spring is: - box for shallow running crankbaits to 4 feet. - box for some deeper cranks and rattle trap type baits. - box for jerkbaits and an increasing collection of bladed jigs. - smaller box for terminal tackle including weights, hooks, leaders, etx. - binder for jigs and spinnerbaits. - worms/craws, tubes and swimbaits go in the side and front pockets. S the water warms up I will add in buzz baits. it may just be I need so full some jigs out. Plan to take a close look at that jig box.

Got the rod in hand today. First impressions it’s a great looking rod. It also is heavier and stiffer, but not too heavy or stiff, than my other rods.. Sure it won’t seem so stiff once I get a lite on it. Further updates to come as soon a I can get out and fish.

Thanks, I’ll have to count how many I have in my binder right now. One thing I’ve thought about is separating the jigs and skirts and just putting the skirts on when I get to the lake and see how the fishing is going to be. I probably could also cull some of my weights down. I don’t really need 3/16, 1/4,5/16,3/8,7/16,1/2. Sure I could be easy enough with 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2. I agree on the need to cull my baits. I have a similar bag as you do except mine is not a Shimano it’s practically the same thing. Thanks!

When you are the partner wo the boat or a non- boater in a tournament how do you pack your various jigs? I got a bait binder but it is overfilled at this point and not really wanting to thin the herd on what I take with me. Also, how pack and organize baits when you have limited storage such a fishing as the co-angler in a tournament? Obviously current conditions could help thin out the herd and what the boater angler plans to fish can help also but what else do you do? For example if we are fishing muddy water, I know I’m probably not throwing jerkbaits or 4 inch worms on light tackle which helps some but not totally.

Big Game has long been my favorite line for many applications however, depending on the rod your using and how far your casting, BG probably has too much stretch. When I first used a swimbait, I didn’t have the proper rod with me and was making long casts with a 6 1/2 MH rod. It just didn’t have the muscle to hook the fish. The next time I brought my jig rod which I still had BG at that time and I did much better but still lost some fish. I then changed line to FC and didn’t lose any fish. This was using the bigger swimbaits in the 5-6 inch range. This is what I’ve done since and had good results. I don’t know what the experts say but that’s what worked for me. For smaller SB, I am using my spinning gear with a 6’ rod and I use braid w FC leader. Mostly because I always have braid on my spinning gear.

Thank you and one reason I love fishing (and deer hunting) is they serve my appetite for analysis so well. All the variables!

Lol, I carry an anemometer with me deer hunting so I can tell the likelihood of a thermal tunnel developing along ridge lines as well as predicting eddies in the woods I hunt. I’m just a little ocd about analyzing things.

That’s exactly what I was thinking...a little bit better action. He had 8lb p line and I had 12lb big game. I haven’t looked at the diameter of those yet. Also I think some brands, probably Stren and Trilene are the worst, purposely understate the pound test for marketing purposes. So should I be looking at diameter of line instead of pound test? And again, how diameter or pound test makes a difference for action? Just checked P Line and 8 lb is .012, 10lb is .014 and 12 lb is .0148. Trilene Big Game is 10lb = .012 and 12lb = .014. Knowing this is it safe to assume that there would be no action difference between 8lb PLine and 10lb Big Game? This stuff is an analytical persons dream or nightmare! Thanks for the replies!

That is helpful. One reason I brought this up is I was looking at rattletraps and it brought back a memory of a friend and I throwing rattletraps. We had totally different setups...but I thought the main difference was he was using 8 pound test and I had 12 pound test. I noticed he caught more fish that I did, bass, white bass, stripers, and so on. I always thought the difference in line test accounted for the line test as we had in the exact same baits. Maybe it was that, maybe he was doing something slightly different, heck his lure could have been slightly different, but after that, I started to always use the lightest line o thought I could use without having problems.

I was just using line test as a proxy. I know that many lines with the same pound test will have different diameters, etc. I’m just wanting to know does how much spread will make a difference in catching fish? For example, if me and a buddy are throwing rattletraps, and he using 8 lb test and I am using 12 lb test, will his rattletrap run better enough to catch more than I do? What I was using 10 and he was using 8? Also, I am well aware there are other variables that go into choosing line test but I’d prefer to ignore those. Or I guess you say “x” difference in diameter will make a difference.

When using crankbaits and/or rattletraps, what spread in line rating will result in a noticeable change in lure action or running depth? For example, to get better action of a trap or crankbait, does changing from 12lb test to 10 lb test make much of a difference, or 12 to 8, 10 to 8? Along the same vein, how much changed is needed to have your lure run a foot deeper or shallower?

Well...I went with the Daiwa Tatula Elite, MH/R since I had a gift card to BPS. Figure if I don't like it it'd be easy to return. 2nd choice was the Lews Mag/Mod Fast which is what I will try if the Tatula doesn't work out. Will post my experience as soon as I can use it. Thanks for all the input. I know this whole thing with Bladed Jig rods has been beat to death and probably will continue to be for a while given the somewhat complex nature of the lure and how it can be fished.

A-Jay what is the weight range on the KVD rod? Most of the bladed jigs I’ve seen with the trailer would be close to an ounce or more in total weight. This is a big reason I’ve leaned towards a heavy action in my search.

Thanks. It’s interesting to see jig rods in moderate fast actions...always though they’d be fast or ex fast. Makes me wonder for what purpose even though I probably wouldn’t notice the difference!

I have not. Trying to figure out what I want to get. I’d ideally like to get something that is usable for at least one other technique. It seemed like the Tatula would be good for deep cranks as well. I didn’t like the lure weight range on the Loomis bladed jig rod. The whole thing is a bit confusing honestly. You see pros talk about bladed jigs as being more crankbait like in the kind of rod you need but I just can’t compute that. I see it as a cross between a spinnerbait and a jig and as such have a hard time with the glass rod part myself. However I’ve never had a glass rod and would like something I can use for deep cranks. The Tatula looked like it could cover bladed jigs, deep cranks and even heavy spinnerbaits per the comments I’ve seen about it. That’s the bummer about fishing gear, most of the time you have to buy it and use it and then suffer a loss on resale if you don’t like it. Not counting all the wasted time.

Yea I think the one you recommended is the one I’m looking at and mentioned in the subject title.

Has anyone used the above rod? Thinking about getting one and last review I saw was back in 2018. Wondering if it has expanded any. Seems like it would be a good multi-purpose rod for Bladed Jigs, heavier spinnerbaits and even big deep running crankbaits from what I can tell. If anyone has a "just as good as" or better recommendation chatterbait/bladed jig rod in that price range ($179.99) or lower I'd be interested to know. I saw on MLF where Mark Rose was really pushing the Lews Mag Trap Rod. That one doesn't seem to be as versatile for moving baits.