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No this is for a house call. The one reputable one near me Leland Marine, the guy is on vacation. IF anyone has suggestions in San Jose I'm all ears. He's totally fine with running the motor and having me hire a mechanic to come down here. That's a huge reason why I'm still interested. It's an odd situation, but it was originally his son's boat. Son left home and left the boat and fell on some hard financial times, and the father wants to sell it to help out the son. He has a pink slip from a previous registration, but I would need to register it. That's the main thing, he says he's going to call the DMV and see the registration fees, because the lakes around here won't let us launch without registration. I'm going to check it again tmrw. I'm going to hammer the transom, do a more thorough inspection. Also check soft spots like you said. I don't think he's maliciously trying to screw me, he spent a lot of hands on time with me on the boat today, but I also need to protect my money lol.

Thanks for the advice. I talked to the mechanic and he said similar things. If he doesn't let me take it out on the water, just walk away. If I can, the mechanic will check everything. Just hoping it won't be out $400 for the inspection...

Thanks, the one in San Diego looks really nice, but it's wayyy too far. California is a huge state, that's like traveling from New York to North Carolina. The one in Concord looks really good but for a 5 thousand dollar difference not sure if it's worth it. So I actually went and checked out the boat today. It was very dirty and very dusty. The fiber glass looked decent, just needs a polish to get rid of some of the oxidation. There were some small scratches on the keel, I assume from 30 years of using. It didn't look consequential but I'm not an expert. The carpet was disgusting, that'll be the first to go. The outboard jack fluid seals need replacing an o-ring, but we refilled it with some fluid and it worked fine. Livewells and aerator pumps probably need to be replaced. The motor itself looked pretty good. Little bit of gunk but the connections and hosing looked clean. Of course, I would need to hire a mechanic. Which brings me to my next dilemma. I would need a mechanic to come take a look for sure. Just to run a test on the motor and verify the transom/hull integrity. Problem is, it's $375 dollars to get one to come down to take a look. I don't want to waste that $375 dollars. The guy was adamant the motor started and ran. He told me after last use he put oil stabilizer in there. He also agreed to bump down the price to $2000. I mean ****, if the motor works, the cost of the motor is pretty much $2000, nevermind a bass boat. I can put in the time and money to make it pretty. Forgot to mention he says the trailer has bearing buddies and the brake lights should work, he can verify for me.

Thanks for your input, I'll have to extra critical on Saturday when I see it and not expect much.

What if it doesn't have any wood? I heard ranger stop using wood around 1990

Yeah it really depends on where you're fishing. Let's say you're from where I'm from. 7' medium-heavy fast casting: spinner bait, shallow crank, jigs, frogs 7.1:1 speed, 12lb fluoro 7'4 - 7'6 heavy fast casting: flipping/pitching 7.1:1 speed 50lb braid with fluoro leader 7'3 minimum medium/medium-heavy moderate casting: cranking 6.4:1 speed 12lb fluoro 7'3 heavy, moderate fast casting: football jigs, carolina rigs 8.1:1 speed 16-20lb fluoro 7' medium spinning: dropshot, ned rig, finesse. 2500 size spinning reel, 8lb fluoro

Hi guys. I've been scouring facebook marketplace and craigslist for a good deal on a bass boat and I *may* have found one. Emphasize on the word *may*. A man is selling his, or more accurately, his son's Ranger 375v. I don't know the year. He says his son moved out of state and left the boat. He's honest in that he told me that the carpet needs to be redone and the seats re-upholstered. Personally, anything wrong cosmetically I can deal with. I'm mainly concerned about the hull and the motor. Regarding both, he said the last time he took it on the water was 2 years ago. The hydraulic fluid that helps lower and raise the motor may need to be changed, he mentioned difficulty doing that. I'm sure the batteries are going to have to be replaced. Not sure about the livewell. edit* Fuel was drained after last use and it's been stored under a cover. I'm checking it out this Saturday. Now you may ask, this boat sounds like a lot of work. Yes it does, but he's also selling it for $2300. He says he never uses it, was never his originally, and he's trying to get rid of it. Now of course I'm going to take all this with a grain of salt, but I figure $2300 for a project Ranger boat ain't that bad of a deal. If I can't get a mechanic to come out with me, what should I look for? I know almost nothing about boats. I know I should check the year, check if the transom is made out of wood, check for obvious cracks, and see if the motor turns on. Is there anything else? Really hoping this would be a good deal. Here are some pictures, she certainly needs a cleaning. Hoping for something workable beneath the dust.

You're right about punching that was an error, I also don't use a leader for that. For flipping I still do, but I've thought about going straight braid. People definitely use braid for cranking so hopefully it works out for you!

I work a 9-5 so im limited to weekends. I try to go at least once a week. My job is close to a lake and in the warmer months where the sun doesn't set until 7 or 8 I'll go after work and fish from the bank.

Different strokes for different folks I guess. Never had an issue with fluoro for cranks. You're right to an extent, that fluoro CAN be as stretchy as mono, but it takes a greater force to get it to stretch. You need to match the line test with the weight of the lure and the action of the rod. Light line, heavy lure, stiff rod, you're going to run into more problems. It's all about fluoro's density. Keep in mind, braid is the least stretchy but that doesn't equate to sensitivity, especially on a slack line. The density of fluoro is really what gives it's properties. Fluoro's controlled stretch properties are useful for leader applications like flipping or punching, but for direct contact such as deeper water football jigging or any non-sight/contact application, fluoro is king. If you're getting any issues with shock or extra sensitivity you should change your rod or inspect your knots. Don't forget to wet the fluoro with your tongue or whatever before cinching down. I personally wouldn't use braid or mono for deep cranking because they both float.

Another vote for 7'3" MHF Veritas. Normally I would suggest a heavy but those Veritas are pretty stiff. I wouldn't worry about casting distance.

EWG no questions. Straight shanks are the most common method for punching, but a lot of people use EWG as well. I personally like texas rigging a bait on a EWG for punching, I think it hides the hook better.

Agree that a spinning reel might be a little light for topwater and spinnerbaits. What are the tapers on your rods? Those matter. I like cranking with the lightest fluoro I can get away with. Helps the bait run deeper. I actually never use mono on anything. I try and eliminate line stretch and let the rod action determine how much "give" on a strike.

Growing up in North Carolina I fished with spinnerbaits and senkos all my life. Anything past 7 feet was uncomfortable for me. Fishing deep was not just a weakness, I blocked it as an option. Moved to California with deep, clear and heavily pressured reservoirs. I was a fisherman out of water. I remember not catching bass for an entire season. I was so frustrated I didn't fish for 8 months. After receiving tips from a local tackle shop and trying a new lake I caught my first fish. I felt like I won the classic. I've been improving deep water skills since. There's no substitution for just doing it. I told myself even if I don't catch anything I'll still learn. Next is improving punching.

Hope I'm not too late but Bob Brown at lews specifically recommended the TP1 crank back model for chatterbaits. I was asking about a more expensive model initially and he told me to get the cheaper TP1 without question. In his words the perfect chatterbait rod. After using it for sometime I have to agree. Phenomenal rod, perfect in every way.

For me, you gotta have heavy and fast. You need to be able to get the fish's head out of the cover as fast as you can. Especially if it's thick cover. I have been wondering whether to get an extra fast tip, but I think fast is the best. You want to set the hook as fast as possible. With extra fast, you run the risk of pull the frog out of the fish's mouth, but a moderate action might be too slow to pull the frog out of cover. Hence fast action.

The Dobyn's Colt has been getting rave reviews. It would be my choice in the sub $100 category, but that's about it. There are a bunch of rods that might work, but they probably won't be as durable, sensitive, and/or light. You have a plethora of options in the 100 dollar range. BPS Carbonlite 2.0. Veritas. Dobyns Fury. Lews TP1. All are good roods. I really like the Dobyns Fury for flipping and frogging. Check out the 735c. Pretty much exactly what you asked for. If you can afford the 120-140 dollar range, I would suggest the Lews Custom Speed Stick Magnum Bass series, but again, a ton of great options out there. We go any higher in price and most people would agree we're leaving the "cheap" category. It's tough to get a "cheap" punching rod. It has to handle weights up to 2 ounces yet not be a broomstick (sensitive, moderate action, but powerful). That being said, the 735c is a great all purpose flipping/pitching/frogging rod. It can punch if coerced to. Plus, punching can mean different things in different parts of the country. Here in the California Delta, you need at the very least 1 ounce to punch through the thick vegetation. In the northern parts, you may only need 3/4 ounce. Your mileage may vary. If you do decide to get a dedicated punching rod I really like the Lews Custom Speed Spool Lite Magnum Casting rod LCLMCR. I also heard really good things about the iRod punching rod.

It definitely was a very bright and very sunny day. Thanks for the advice the fishing world needs more people like you. I'm back in the Bay Area but will keep this in mind. I think you hit the nail on the head. All the presentations I like to use are difficult to implement in the moss and weeds.

Fished the weeds with a chatterbait, texas rig (didn't have proper punching gear), and a frog. The deeper areas I fished with a football jig and a shakey head with Aaron's magic. Apologies for hyperbole, of course I didn't try *everything* and *everywhere* just tactics that worked for me in other lakes. To be honest there were very few areas without weeds. Even the rocks and sandy beaches had some sort of vegetation. The few areas without weeds I fished football jig and creepers trash fish swimbait.

I think we're being a little hard on OP's friend. With some exceptions, the Delta being one of them, I do believe California is much tougher on the numbers side. @WRB you know how much we all respect you but you do have decades of experience and perhaps access to some amazing private lakes. To newer people like myself who have never encountered as highly pressured waters as here it can really throw us off. Some of us are used to just pulling up to a pond we've never been before and pulling fish. In California you have to put time and effort and be mentally strong but forgive us if we get frustrated by multiple skunk or 1 or 2 fish days. I think all of us would love to catch a DD and we recognize that's not gonna happen every one, two, maybe even 10 trips. However, the argument that California has the most trophy bass doesn't have much to do with numbers, we can all agree.

Well, went out on the lagoon and got the big ole skunk. Tried everything. The lake was full of weeds, saw a bunch of fry hanging about but no monsters. Super hot day, mostly calm water, will have to rethink strategy.

Thanks for the heads up. I have a pedal kayak so I can deal with wind up to a certain point......I guess I'll see on Friday.

I'll be fishing at Castaic Friday, was wondering would the upper main lake or the lagoon be better for bass fishing. I have a 13 foot pedal fishing kayak so I'll be able to get around.

What areas have you tried so far?

You need to slow your roll my man. Nowhere did I imply that not sharing every little bit of knowledge is selfish "and of itself selfish" (redundant much?) Read my previous posts please, I believe is stated that what you share or not share is your own business, as long as you do it respectfully. It's not like we all didn't start somewhere. And please do not "imply" that I do not put my "OWN" time in the water. I fish extensively and I fish hard and I figure things out. I put my dues and time in.