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Pictures below It's been a while since the last update. However, new season brings new things: List of addition/changes: -Changed carpet color and density. Didn't like the color before, plus I didn't like the job I did. This time it's much cleaner. -The old seats were on their last legs. Bought new seats. -Rebuilt the casting deck. Last year, I just wanted something functional. This year, I wanted to make something that operated and looked better -Added keel guard -fixed electric choke switch, had to bypass a wire -Rivet nutted the holes where control box attached to hull. I had used a bolt and some gorilla glue for attachment. Definitely not ideal. Rivet nuts are great. -rebuilt carbs, changed impeller, some various gaskets -replaced glove box lock -wrapped wires and cables with nylon cable sleeves -Added a hot foot -Fixed some minor wiring issues. Fuses that needed replacing, incorrect connections etc. -Replaced trailer suspension. this was a pain in the rear. Conceptually, not hard. Physically, a pain in the ass. -Finally bought a pedestal for the rear. Help a fishing partner out. -Bought a flush bag. Can I say these things are so freaking overpriced. $215 for some plastic canvas material and pvc pipe. Utterly ridiculous. I had to do it because my motor won't flush on muffs, and it's not possible for me to drive to a body of water on demand. It needs water to be above the impeller. And it is nice to be able to properly adjust the motor as you need proper back pressure. Still though....way overpriced. I can say that this boat is close to 100% as anybody can make it. So naturally, me being a restless m fer, I had to find something to do. And that would be console dash. I bought a switch panel and new gauges and a sheet of abs plastic. Want to modernize it a little. Some of the switches are finicky anyways. Might as well go 100. I would LOVE to have a digital tachometer. I know how many pulses my motor shoots out. With a potentiometer and some resistors I should be able to make any tach work. I'll save this for sometime later. It's time to fish.

I have a 2017 Tacoma and I tow an old ranger glass boat. If you stick to 18-19 feet or below you'll be okay. Aluminum boats can go shallower and are more forgiving if you ding them up a little. Glass boats tend to be faster. Stability depends on weight. There are definitely stable/heavy aluminum boats out there. You can definitely get a decent glass or aluminum boat for 15-20k. Personally I'd go with glass. You should be able to find a late 90s or early 20s glass boat with at least a 150hp in good condition.

Curado 70 just has less line capacity I believe.

Just finished setting up my lineup for 2019. Switching to mostly Cashion rods and Shimano reels. I've upgraded from mostly Pro Qualifiers and Lews rods and reels over the past two years. Lews Speed Stick Custom Lite Dropshot - Shimano NASCI - dropshot Cashion P8437s - Shimano Symetre -shakeyheads Lews Custom Speed Stick Shakeyhead - Some cheap Daiwa -general finesse Cashion C90573b - Orra Winch - cranks Cashion DD90476 - Orra Winch - deep cranks Powell Endurance - Curado K -spinnerbaits Cashion F90471b Chatterbait - Curado K -chatterbaits Cashion P84469b - Curado 70 -jerkbaits Cashion P84469b - Curado 70 -topwater Dobyns Fury 735C - Curado K -frogs Cashion M8437 - Chronarch Ci4+ -Senko/Worms / Finesse jigs Carolina Custom RX7 - Chronarch Ci4+ -Texas Rig / Jigs Cashion M87473 - Curado K -Football jigs / bottom baits Cashion M8447 - Curado K -Pitching Lews Custom Pro Magnum Hammer - Chronarch Ci4+ - All purpose St Croix Avidx - Daiwa Lexa 300WN - A rig / Swimbait Needs reels: Lews Custom Speed Stick Lite LCLMJR - for spooning Lews Custom Speed Stick Lite Magnum Casting XH - for punching Next up is upgrading my spinning reels. It's never ending acquiring gear ><

That seems unbelievable, prove me wrong so I can buy one XD I've fished ~$100 dollar reels for years. Tatula CT for sure, better than the Lews MB. But look around ebay and you could be surprised at what you can find.

If you’re worried about a cheap reel having a catastrophic failure, then I would say don’t be. I’ve fished pro qualifiers (one step up from black maxes) for years and haven’t had issues. I’ve see rods break during hooksets more than cheap reels self destructing The knock against cheap reels is they tend to not last as long. But even that is improving every year

Thanks, I ended up getting 3 for 400 and a curado 70 for 100. They are used of course so taking a leap of faith but his reasons for selling and pictures check out.

The seller just offered 275 for two Chronarch CI4+. I think that's a screaming deal. Guess this thread resolved itself lol.

It's not new but the seller claims it's in great condition. The pics check out I guess. Hmm, why do you you say that? That's more than 100 dollars cheaper than an MGL

What are the main differences between these two Chronarchs? I can get the CI4 for 170 but is it worth it to get the mgl? As far as I know the main things are the braking and the micro module gearing

I've only fished two tournaments as a nonboater. Both were with the same local club. Team format. First time was great, the guy was a hammer but he was very chill. Think a "cool confidence" and he was giving me tips on how to bed fish and it was just a very pleasant time. Now, I don't expect every boater to be like that, I'm perfectly fine just quietly fishing from the back. He was just uncommonly nice. The second guy was an *******. He was one of those that took club tournaments very seriously. I understand if we were fishing a Pro-Am or a BFL or whatever, but this was just a club tournament. He was grouchy, condescending, and would yell at me if I didn't do things quick enough. I'm not going to get into this whole "what constitutes back boating" argument. All I'll say is that throughout the day I was consistently put in a disadvantageous position. At the end of the day he ordered me to put the fish in the bag and yelled at me when I didn't get out of the truck fast enough, as if I were his child. I have a lot of pride and don't take it kindly when people disrespect me like that. The icing on the cake was he would litter on the water. He would through trash, cigarette packets and butts, into the Delta. That experience caused me to quit the club. A year later I toyed with the idea of rejoining. It's the only bass club in the area. Went to the website and saw that he was the president now. Nope, I'll stick with fun fishing. Now, when I take friends fishing, I do my d**n hardest to be the opposite of guy #2. I could've easily reported guy #2 but in my shoes it was a touch call. I was a newcomer, and that was only my second tournament. The guy was established in the club and had a lot of friends. Tough situation.

A general rule of thumb is as you go from early prespawn to spawn, you start deep and outside the coves, then slowly work your ways shallow and into the cove until you find them. Then you reverse the process spawn to postspawn. In the Summer they'll either be really shallow or in deep cover. Fall, you look for the schools and bait. Winter, you pray (haha). Without being able to see the actual structure and cover, there is one spot that stands out to me. In that picture at the bottom there are two "Shallow" labels. To the immediate left of this is a steep ledge. And there's some fallen timber to the north too. That's where I'd probably start. That steep ledge that's right next to shallow water looks super juicy to me. The docks on the left side also look good, but I bet everyone fishes those.

BassResource is the best. No secrets, they will tell you everything.

Absolutely my man. Brown/Purple Keitech football jig with a green pumpkin purple Yamamoto hula grub. Had to slow wayyyy down. Picked apart a bunch of spots but only had that one fish. I probably dragged it right over its head. I wish I had a dark colored grub, but green pumpkin is all I had.

So I should clarify the water level statements. Sometimes there are swings, sometimes there aren't. Some months or years the water level WILL rise like last year. And then some years like this year they'll let it out. That's a good tidbit about current. I think I need to explain that the reservoirs near my house are different than reservoirs from river systems. They are not like the spidery, fingery, shaped lakes of the east coast. Moreover, they tend to be devoid of a lot of cover we're traditionally used to, like laydowns, stumps, bushes. The bottoms are smooth and flat on the depth finder. The cover I mainly fish are rocks. In the late spring and summer the grass will also hold fish. However in the winter they'll retreat to the deepest rocks. That's why the muddy water is frustrating, because it's very difficult to fish muddy water deep, but shoreline cover is very limited (the grass is died out). I know it sounds like I'm making excuses but believe me I tried all the suggestions today. I did go out again today and caught one fish, but in deeper water, on a rocky point with slight current. The rains temporarily stopping for the next week or so, meaning the water will eventually clear up, but I almost want it stay muddy so I can figure this out ?

So a lot of people have been giving general rules in muddy water. But no one has said anything about the water level staying the same. So it seems that most people think that the water level itself won't matter that much. If I interpreted that wrong someone please correct me.

Lol sounds good guys I’m gonna try again Saturday and throw cranks and spinners

Yeah so it was definitely inches of visibility. And definitely really muddy for California waters. Deep bass of course still feed, I wasn't saying they don't, but they are going to be extremely hard to catch in muddy water, so most people fish shallow. However that assumes the water level is rising as well presenting new opportunities for cover. In my case the water level did not rise at all.

I tried fishing today in muddy water at my local reservoir. Conventional wisdom says fish shallow because they feed shallow. But what do you do if the water level stays the same? Our county alters the water levels and when there is rainfall they will release water such that the water level stays the same. Had a tough day today trying to figure out what to do. They were definitely not biting shallow.

I didn't have any issues paddling in the wind. I'm a pretty strong person and I got around find. I got annoyed having to paddle the wind to stay in position. I hated having to cast, paddle, retrieve a little, paddle again. Anchoring was an option but also just cumbersome especially in our deep reservoirs. Anchoring in 30+ feet of water just didn't do it for me. Now I have a Ultrex and everything i just better. I can spot lock a fairly precise location and jog myself any direction if i want to re-position. I can hit a pinpoint deep water target in high wind very effectively. Kayak fishing has its advantages but deep water windy structure fishing ain't one of them. And California has a lot of that.

Catching from the kayak is more visceral. You're right up near the water, the fish is pulling you around. Catching a 5 on a boat is fun. Catching a 5 on a kayak is a different experience. However, I switched to boats because I couldn't deal with the wind. I tried everything but I threw in the towel and restored an older bass boat. Now I don't have to worry as much about wind and temperature reports. I plan on buying a kayak again sometime in the future. It really is a more intense experience!

Unfortunately I don't have a friend that has a working Mega SI unit. However, I wonder if I could plug in my Mega DI transducer to my Mega SI head. That shouldn't break anything right?

I asked this in another forum so just copying and pasting here: Hi guys, I obtained a used Helix 9 Mega SI from ebay but I'm having issues with Mega and high frequency imaging. Sorry for the glare-y picture, it was the best I could do. Essentially Mega imaging has a very dim almost non existent picture. And non Mega imaging also has some issues. The bottom half is when I have Mega imaging on for DI and SI. The top is when I switch it to 800khz and below. I have to switch both DI and SI to 800khz from Mega. Also, you can see the right side is noticeably dimmer. Has anyone encountered this? It's not a power issue as I tried my bow power source which works. It's not a software issue as I had just did a software update per humminbird instructions. The transducer has some nicks and scratches on the right side but the seller assured me it was working perfectly. The seller has a 100% rating on ebay so I don't think he's trying to pull a fast one on me. Before I send it to Humminbird for repair I was hoping one of you guys could provide some insight.

I wonder if it's because in South Florida they have to compete with Peacock Bass and other non indigenous species.

In my previous outing summer patterns were still lingering like a bad hangover. Almost no bait balls, much less bass feeding on them. Low activity. Hot temperatures. Then I had to keep the boat in the garage to do some work on the trailer. After two weeks I finally was able to take her out again. What a difference those two weeks made. Water temps dropped from 73 to 67. My graphs, previously lifeless, now showed a ton of activity. Excited to be fishing shallower, I pitched my jig outside a weedline at a cove opening and the rest is history. A friendly kayaker helped take this picture for me: Picture actually makes it look smaller, but I promise you it's a 8.09 lber. Just a tad skinny. If I had caught her with a full belly.... Been fishing in California for 4 years and I could not break 7 lbs. Slightly embarrassed, but sometimes people think huge bass just jump in your boat out here. Lakes here get a lot of pressure. On to double digits! Some areas in the country have people already winterizing boats. Quite the opposite here. We're at the end of the fall transition into fully fledged "fall" fishing. Bass are getting more active and I managed to pull out some 3s and a 4 in addition to the 8. Can't wait to capitalize again.