learnin

I've got a couple of old, around 20 years, Shimano Bantam Curados, a 200B5 and 100B. It appears that replacing the bearings with "high performance" bearings is fairly common with these reels. Other than the original bearings wearing out is there any other reason to do this. Both reels still seem to work as well as they did new.

I usually fish a western clear water reservoir, Eastman Lake, Madera, Ca. I've been using 14lb mono Trilene XL for topwater, and crankbaits. Sometime I do ok on these sometimes not. Someone suggested I might do better with lighter line. I can't see it but does anyone think dropping down to 10lb would make enough difference to matter?

Thanks again for the replies & info. I asked if I was doing something wrong and based on the replies I need to start paying better line attention. I've ordered the hook removal tool recommended by Russ E. and as I'm not a tournament Fisherman I'm going to mash down the barbs on my Ned Rig jigs. I'm going to turn them loose anyway. If they throw the hook more power to them.

Thanks to all for the replies. Russ E. source for that tool?

Last three times out I tried the Ned rig using the "Z Man" small jig heads and TRD trailers. From what I've read and experienced on this you'll get a lot of strikes on the slow falling bait and not know it till you start the retrieve. You'll also catch more smaller bass but some bigger ones too. No question it works, I'm catching more fish, mostly smaller but a lot of action and fun on light tackle. So far the smaller ones, 11 to 13, 14 inches are lip hooked and easy to release. The two bigger ones, 17 & 18 inchers swallowed the bait including the jig head. I cut the line and they swan off strong with no obvious bleeding but I've got my doubts re long term survival. My theory is the bigger fish can inhale the smaller bait more effectively than the small ones and either that's typical of the Ned Rig or I'm doing something wrong. Anyone else had this happening with fishing the Ned Rig?

Shimano Sienna 2500FD reel, new off ebay and Shimano Sojurn med or med lt rod, ebay or Amazon. Don't know if it's the best but they've worked fine for me for the past few years. Should be around $80, maybe less delivered

Shimano Sienna FD

Did not realize this got as much response and haven't looked at it since last year. Thanks to all who responded.

Anyone else using one of these for lightwt lures and soft plastics.? I own and have owned higher end Shimanos and Diawas. I read some good reviews on the Siennas a few years ago and figured for $30.00 I'd give it a try as a backup to keep in the boat. The next time out I used it to see how well it worked or didn't. It worked fine and I left it on the rod and have used it continuously since then for both fresh water and light surf fishing with both braid and mono. Granted, so far I've never caught anything over 8 lbs with it but it's brought in a lot of fish with minimal maintenance. Other than rinsing it off with fresh water after surf fishing I've cleaned and re-lubed it once. Still all original parts. Based on it's specs it seems to have most of the basic features of Shimano's more expensive reels. I noticed last year or the year before Shimano changed it's design and now calls it the Sienna FE, a carbon reel with one bearing. Kind of makes me wonder if the 4 bearing FD wasn't effecting their more expensive reel sales.

I don't think they carry many of these anymore but does anyone else think for the average fisherman they were pretty decent rods? When I got into doing more bass fishing about 20 years ago I didn't know what was supposed to be considered good or bad equipment. I originally ended up with several of Bass Pro's "Extreme" line of baitcasters and spinning rods as well as "Crankin sticks" and a couple of their "Tourney Special" med/lt baitcasting rods and a lt spinning rod. I've used all of them a lot for all kinds of fishing (mostly bass) and still use them. They cast where I want them too and handle line, baits and fish in the range described on the rod. Never had a problem with any of them.

Anyone else have trouble avoiding line twist spooling new line ? It's always been my understanding correct procedure is to have the new spool flat, reel in a few feet, give the line between the spool and the reel some slack and if the slack line twists turn the new spool over and reel with that side up. IME about half the time the line will twist from the opposite side too after a few turns. Is there a better way to do this?

Just started using braid this year. Part of the clear water lake I fish looks to be an old quarry with a lot of sharp edged rocks. I've taken some good fish out of that area with Senkos and finesse worms but it's hard on braid and fluro leaders so I've lost a few too. I'm thinking of going back to mono for this part of the lake or will heavier braid and fluro work ok.