papajoe222

Tourney time isn't the time to go looking for fish from the get go. I'd suggest doing what is done the most; get your limit first then target bigger fish and cull. You do need to have a back-up plan going in. That back-up can prove invaluable even when you get your limit as it can produce the fish that will make the difference in cashing in. If you have confidence in a few deep spots, by all means start there and your shallow pattern can be your back-up.

Right after ice-out, I'm into numbers over size. Four months or more of not wetting a line has me itching to catch something and the more something I catch, the happier I am. From mid to late pre-spawn on, it becomes a size thing so I'm targeting females until fall. It becomes a numbers thing again in the fall which will keep the itch away for a while after the water gets hard again.

Yes. In the situation you described, northern lake with green water and visibility as such, the water is clearer under the suspended plankton and algae. The downside is those suspended particles reduce light penetration and change the the color of the light. This is why firetiger is such a good choice under those conditions.

I's stick with the drop shot for a number of reasons. First and foremost, you can adjust the distance off bottom easily and can even fish it on the bottom if need be, without re-rigging. Second, regardless of the plastic bait used, it's more visible to fish both from a distance and close up. A jig is a great presentation, but the fish either need to be looking down, or willing to move once it's spotted. Either way, they need to be somewhat on the active side. The drop shot appeals to them no matter what mood they happen to be in.

One thing I always suggest on pressured water is to throw something different. If you don't have anything different, try a different color or a retrieve you don't see others using. (slow roll, or burn a spinnerbait for example) The other thing I recommend is to downsize. A 1/8oz. spinnerbait shows them something different, but basically the same. I throw a tube quite a bit for these reasons and do quite well fishing behind others working the same spots.

Two identical lines, different diameters? The thinner line would be more sensitive, I would think. putting the rod blank and line movement that's observed aside and focusing strictly on felt vibrations. Using identical wood dowels, the 1/4in. is much more sensitive than the 1/2in. given the same stimulus. Given WRB's statement about water's density dampening of vibrations, the thicker line would move more water and therefore dampen the felt vibration.

I'd just turned 10 when my folks bought a place just north of Wisc.Dells. My dad and I would fish a causeway with a bridge from shore. We were targeting walleye with white hair jigs. I snagged someones discarded line and attached to the end was a brown and red hair jig. We weren't catching anything, so I cut off my white jig and tied on the one I'd found. On my second or third cast with it I tied into a smallie that likely went somewhere between 14-16in. That fish turned me every way but loose, jumping and running at me only to turn and head back out toward deeper water. Although I continued to fish for walleye with my dad until he passed a few years later, whenever I had the opportunity I'd be out chasing bass.

Have you tried fishing at night? The other presentations I'd recommend are drop shotting small plastics, dead sticking a shakey head with a floating plastic and burning either a lipless crank or spinnerbait with smaller willow blades (I use a RocketShad). My most productive presentation for daytime summer fishing is dead sticking a tube on a drop shot.

I stopped using the Owner weedless hooks as the weed guard is too stiff, IMO. I, too, now tie my own weed guards I use the fiber weed guards off old rusty jigs

I'd stick with dark colors like you have been. I'd venture a guess that bullhead make up a portion of their diet and that along with the muck bottom could account for your success with dark colors If you're going to use a jig and target where the drop levels off, parallel the drop for the same reason I mentioned about using cranks. Youll need to experiment with size as too heavy a jig will burry into the mud. A mushroom/stand up style jig will help prevent that along with a trailer with big or numerous appendages. Start with small hops and experiment with retrieves.

I'll start with color preference by asking a twofold question. What is the main forage and what is the water and bottom color? Color preference is normally related to one, or all of those Your presentation of choice would dictate how to approach fishing a drop off. With crankbaits, parallel retrieves will keep your bait in the strike zone longer than attempting to work them up or down the drop. They also work well when fish suspend just off the drop Working a jig or worm up the drop will allow you to maintain bottom contact much easier than working down it. The other advantage is, once you contact fish, you can switch up baits and concentrate on that depth. The downside is if the fish prefer a falling bait. If you're confident the fish are there, try both up and down the drop. The fish will let you know what they prefer.

I've done it more than once. First time I was leaning over the side of the boat pulling on a limb of a submerged tree in an attempt to retrieve my crankbait. The limb pulled back and in the drink I went with both my wallet and iphone in my pockets. Luckily my TM tangled with the tree and my boat didn't drift off without me. The other two times I hit a submerged boulder with the TM turned up and got ejected into the water. Both times I had to swim quite a bit to catch up to my drifting vessel and, oh yea, my iphone was in my pocket. Now I wear an inflateable PFD and my phone and wallet are kept in my gear. With my luck, next time the boat will sink just after I take off my jacket (PFD first) with my wallet, phone and keys. I can't win.

Welcome to BR Generally speaking (there are no absolutes in bass fishing), bass are sight feeders. If you can get their attention with something that either is noisy, gives off a lot of vibration, or moves a lot of water, that they can see, you have a good chance of catching them once you find them. A Colorado bladded spinnerbait with a trailer that moves a lot of water like a RageTail or Kalins Lunker Grub and a jig rattle combines all those attributes. So does a fat body rattling crankbait. A jig with a thick skirt, loud rattle and a trailer that moves a lot of water is a great target bait. Combine any of them with a color that is either visible, or contrasts the darker water and all you should have to do is find them.

Check the spool bearing retainer pin to make sure it's centered on the spool shaft. An off centered one may not engage the pinion completely until the handle is turned.

I do more of a sweep and reel than a straight upward hook set. The only exception is when I use circle hooks, then it's just reeling with the rod tip up high.

If you're not stuck on Shimano, the Daiwa zillion TWS 100P can be had for under $200. 5.1:1 gearing and will spool 120-130yrds of 10-12lb. test depending on the line's diameter.

Check the spacer under your cast control knob. If it's dimpled, turn it over. It sounds like you either lost it, or it's really worn down.

I prefer with a skirt, for both fishing the bottom and just under the canopy. Getting that skirt to pulsate, IMO, not only moves water, but gets their attention visually.

There is no easy answer for someone just starting out. A few suggestions though. Fish a jig, or worm until you are familiar with how it feels. When you feel a tap, keep light tension on the bait and hesitate. If the line tightens, goes slack, or your jig feels heavier or lighter SET THE HOOK. Two things I always suggest to someone starting out; go a little heavy with your jig or bullet weight. It will help you maintain bottom contact and SLOW DOWN. You'll soon learn to distinguish a bite from a rock. As stated before, rocks don't move.

Try moving your topic to the reflector ice forum. I'm sure one of the members that frequents it can give you the answer.

A small piece of electrical tape does the job. There's really no need to tie the line to the spool as I've never had a bass 'spool' me and I've never heard or read of it happening. They just don't make long runs that you need to concern yourself with running out of line.

Why did I never think to carry one in my boat? Oh yea, I don't own a Whopper Plopper. Silly me.

50+ years fishing jigs for bass, I think I can challenge Catt for that 'longer than anyone else on the forum. Then again, I know I can't challenge his productivity over the years. ?

They do make a great trailer for a jig when you wan a small profile. Trim the skirt at the hook bend and thread one on. Great topwater, especially if you're limited to how much gear you can take with you. Many ways to rig it.

Easy answer; Whenever you want or need to get the bait down on the bottom, use a heavy enough weight to be able to feel when it's moving on the bottom. For swimming a worm, use one heavy enough to keep it in the zone you're targeting throughout your retrieve. For fishing the tops of weeds, or when you want an enticingly slow fall, go weightless. Remember that the more salt in the plastic the more it will sink, so go with thinner worms to stay on top of the weeds