papajoe222

Check the hook on the spinnerbait you'll be using. The thicker the diameter, the heavier the line you'll want to use. I wouldn't go less than 12lb. regardless.

I can't speak for any one other than Yo-Zuri Hybrid (Fluorocarbon/Nylon) as it's the only one I've ever used. I'm very happy with it, so I see no reason to try anything else.

That's a tough one. The first thing I'd do is switch it out to the rod you have the other Smoke on and see if it still does it. I'm assuming you only feel it when you're actually casting a lure. My suspicion is either a nicked or dirty rod/reel guide.

I've seen the SureSet hooks on the DT series. You may want to switch the belly hook to the SureSet, however, unless you're fishing vegetation. Great buy, even if you end up spending a few cents by replacing the rear treble.

Like they said and I recommend mono, because it retains more of it's rated break strength than fluoro when nicked. Trust me, if you're fishing shell beds or rip-rap, you'll be getting nicks in that leader so keep checking it. You won't be loosing anything in the way of sensitivity unless you go extra long with your leader.

As for gear, I recommend a M/H rod if using mono or fluoro (12lb.+). Go to a Med. power if you'll be using braid. Mod.Fast for both if it's rated for both power and action. Pre-spawn is the only time I use a trailer and most often it's a Kalin's grub behind a Colorado spinnerbait. I will use a trailer hook 90% of the time after the spawn, The only time I don't is when they're taking it deep. If I'm fishing grass, I like the ones with the line tie dipped in plastic. It keeps the hook from swinging freely behind the bait.

My vote goes to a flat sided balsa bait 2-3in. in length.

One thing you may be doing is using the wrong tool at the wrong time, or in the wrong location. Spinnerbaits shine as a reaction bait and as such are a poor choice in many situations, which can be said for most lures. Like any lure, you need to put it where the fish are. Many anglers when starting out with spinnerbaits will cast them out and wind them straight back. This will keep it up high in the water column, often within sight. That's fine if the fish are active there ( think late pre-spawn), if they aren't, you're just churning water. If you were fishing a shallow running crank with no success, wouldn't you consider switching to a deeper running one if it didn't produce? Just as with Crankbaits, a steady retrieve will catch an occasional fish, but it's the erratic action of bouncing off of something or using a stop and go retrieve that will get you bit much more often. The same thing applies to spinnerbaits. My advice to gaining some confidence in them it to hold off using them until late pre-spawn and then pick an overcast or breezy day. Start working it shallow and then down the water column. They're only as versatile as you make them.

The system I've always used uses the rod as the reference, not the line. I feel the drag should start slipping just prior to the rod loading up completely. This will not only avoid line breakage, but rod damage as well. It is very similar to how the OP described how he is doing it. The drawback to the system comes if using line lighter than the rod is rated for, it will break before the rod loads up.

Longer rods tend to be tip heavy, but adding weight to the butt increases the overall weight. If balance is more important than the actual weight of the combo. The farther behind the grip the less weight it will take to balance, so if you decide to add weight, the butt is the place to do it. The only reason I mention this is I had someone that was unhappy with a 7'3" build I'd done for him that purchased a larger reel in an attempt to balance things out. It added 3oz. to the total weight and he was even less thrilled with it then.

I feel your pain. I spent hours scouting the bottom both from my boat and in the water. luckily I was casting a crank when it slipped out of my hand . Finding that Balsa B led me to the rod. Here' wishing you the best at recovering yours.

The only drawback to using them is getting caught switching lures when it's raining. Too much moisture and they turn to slime. I switched to the Z-Rust tabs.

I'm currently using a 2500 on a 7ft. Med./Fast rod for both trout and bass. I like the smaller size and lighter weight. It's spooled with 20lb. braid and has a leader of 8lb. Yo-Zuri. I feel a 35 is a bit too large for trout.

I fished for Muskie with black line for years and caught plenty of bass while doing so. Would I use it for bass fishing? Not under most conditions.

If your assumptions about conditions prove to be correct, a lipless crank or Colorado bladed spinnerbait would be my choice for a horizontal presentation. You can't beat a jig with a loud rattle and a big trailer for vertical. Location is going to be the most difficult thing to figure out. If you've fished there before, I'd stick with the same general locations you've had success with. if not, look for clearer water and/or areas where it seems to change like a mud line. If the water level has risen recently, I'd check out any newly flooded cover.

Great bait once the fish start moving in the spring and continues to produce throughout the season. Easy to wake and a killer as a drop bait. I like to shorten the upper arm as I feel it helps with hook-ups when the bait is falling and it also reduces short strikes.

Glad to hear that things are happening as expected. You'll be back to your normal activities soon and you won't have to deal with the pain and numbness. Don't forget to

If you have a laugh like Jimmy Houston, it just might be a hit.

It sounds like the spacer under the tension knob was either missing, or severely dimpled. Many lower end reels use a plastic spacer that will deform if left under tension for any length of time.

I always back my reels with mono before spooling braid. I know some companies now offer spools that don't require it, but you only use the first 50yrd. of line so why fill the entire spool with braid? I could see getting a little extra distance using braid, which is slick, over fluoro. I can't see any benefit to backing fluoro with braid.

I use a similar one, but the stone is reversible. One end is D shaped with a grove down the center of the flat portion. The other end is round and tapered for use on hooks that have a bend at the point. It even has a pen-type clip so you can keep it in your pocket.

"I know from reading that it's also important to find structure running from deep to shallow." This is an important factor regardless of the season. The structures you need to focus on are the ones leading to spawning sites. Not all shallow flats are spawning sites. Some have the wrong bottom content, or some other condition. If you are unfamiliar with the lake, I'd attempt to acquire that information first. In some clear lakes I fish, the bigger females are found spawning in water 6-8ft. deep. Knowing that and having fished them during pre-spawn, I can eliminate some of the areas on the topo map that appear to be prime spawning areas.

Thanks

I prefer a Strike King Rocket Shad. It'll hang up more than a typical safety pin style, but if I'm concerned with that I'll switch out hooks. I change out blades a lot too. I'd rather use casting gear and it's heavy head takes the work out of it.

My goal is to be around come the end of the season, everything else that may happen is a bonus.