papajoe222

Spence Petros. I had a chance to do just that 30yrs. ago, but there was a death in the family and I had to cancel. The man is a fountain of information, not just on bass fishing but fishing in general. Many an angler has learned important lessons from mentors such as him, sadly the only ones I did were from his informative articles.

I keep a 20in. leader in my first aid kit for those times I need to use the above hook removal technique. I just clip it back to itself to form a loop and put my hand through it. I takes up a little more room than a loop of 80lb. braid, but it's easier to find when I'm in panic mode.

The only time I ever heard the phrase was on a charter. The result was that everyone on that side of the boat brought their lines in to avoid tangling.

Can't be, he gave me his Old Timer back in '56. I haven't carried it since before Nam. I either have a Kershaw or Spiderco in my pocket, so I don't bring a knife with me specifically for fishing. I gave my headlamp away because I had to tilt my head down for it to illuminate what I was doing and I wear bi-foals. I keep a pen light clipped to my shirt pocket and hold it in my mouth.

I rely on first hand reports from a local. I keep the email addresses of one or more in a 'local anglers' file and will contact them for reports on conditions (including ice-out). Boat ramps are the best places to get them, especially if there is a line of guys waiting to launch.

Dave just gave you an example of one of the benifits a big body of water offers. As to when that first movement takes place, it differs from region to region and lake to lake. That movement is what's called pre-spawn. A rise in water temp. of four or five degrees can start some fish moving and the angle of the sun as the days get longer is also a contributing factor. The two factors that you NEED to know are where the fish winter and where they spawn. The movement up to the spawning area is a migration route. If you can determine that route, finding fish (and catching them) becomes easier. BTW, that 'route' will be used by many of the fish during the post-spawn period and if that spawning flat doubles as a feeding flat during the summer, some fish will also use it to migrate to the shallows to feed on a daily basis. The pre-spawn movement can take weeks on a lake that is slow to warm, or much less on smaller bodies of water like a pond.

The only reason I can see for adding an additional coat woul be that you feel you may have missed an area, as once it is dry it keeps moisture out.

Cheer up guys and take solace in the fact that someone is always worse off. I haven't wet a line since Oct. and if I have to go in for another surgery, I could miss the opening of our power plant lakes in five weeks. Now I just need to find that poor soul that is worse off than I am.

Fifteen or so, mostly older Stanley's. I only replace them when one breaks. I change out blades, and I've shortened the arms on a couple. I have another half dozen made specifically for pike fishing.

When I'd be after a 'kicker', I only used two baits; a jig with a big craw trailer, or a buzz bait. With the buzzer, I could cover a flat with cover fairly quickly and then slow down and pick the cover apart. The rods were identical 7' Med. All Stars with TD Advantage 150H reels spooled with 30lb. braid. FYI, except for some pre-spawn tournaments, the majority of my kicker fish came on a buzzer.

I recently sold my last two; Both were BPS Bionic Blades. I loved fishing Spooks and most top-waters with them because of casting accuracy and the handle never got in the way. Most guys now will work a walking bait with the rod handle up out of the way, so handle length is moot. Whenever I hooked into a big girl, I'd end up putting my cranking hand on the rod above the seat when working the fish in because I couldn't take the strain on my wrist. I just tuck the handle under my forearm now.

I've been using a Daiwa Sol for years for all kinds of finesse presentations, from weightless worms to crappie cranks. Prior to that I used an old Pro Caster. The rod used has so much more to do with it than the reel.

Prior to swivel hooks, a number of pros would tie braid to a swivel and then add a mono or fluoro drop line from it to reduce line twist. It's still a good option if you feel the swivels on the hook to be spooking fish (I don't). Just tie your hook using a palomar knot somewhere down from the swivel and add your weight. If you need to break off, you will only be out a hook, sinker and a bit of line.

Lucky13. I've even set my beloved Spook down to attempt to catch a fish on one when the 'bite' was on. No matter how I retrieve it, I've yet to get even a swirl let alone a blow up.

A spoon, I believe it was a red/white Daredevil. Didn't catch anything on it until an elderly gentleman told me it should wobble and not spin. Once I slowed down the retrieve, I began catching walleye and an occasional pike. To this day, it's an effort for me to fish most any lure fast.

My thinking is similar to CJ's. except I don't take color into account until I've contacted (caught or lost a fish or two) fish. I'll start out looking for active fish shallow and work my way deeper until I contact fish. Fish that depth with the same presentation/speed unless I'm fishing deep and slow and the fish are active, in which case, I'll switch to a faster presentation. Somewhere between the shallows and deep structure I anticipate contacting fish. Once I do, I stick with that depth and adjust my offering/presentation if or when I feel the bite has slowed. BTW, Welcome to the forums. After you get back from fishing, stop by the introductions forum and tell us a little about yourself.

I love fishing top-water baits (who doesn't?) and I'm always looking to try something I've never used. The Cordell Pencil Popper caught my eye, but it's just too big. Does anyone know if this style bait comes in a smaller size (4-5in.) and if so, where can I find them?

If you're the type that likes to keep plastics in their original packaging, give Flambeau's 1/2 Satchel a look. It had dividers so you can separate by type, or color and it holds a lot of baits. http://www.cabelas.com/product/flambeau-reg-4510-tuff-tainer-reg-super-half-satchel/1316445.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dflambeau%252B1%252F2%252Bsatchel%26x%3D10%26y%3D6%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%252BProducts&Ntt=flambeau+1%2F2+satchel

Drop shotting. I put a box together with everything I needed a couple of seasons ago, caught a nice bass under tough conditions the first time I tried it, but haven't opened the box since.

I second the 'heavier for deeper' train of thought, although the only time I find myself throwing something heavier than 3/4oz. is when I'm targeting the toothy critters.

NEVER, Now go to bed without any desert and you're grounded until you apologize.

I've had mine for five years or so and I can tell you they are worth the cost and then some. I fish Muskegon Bay every April (missed last year) It is invariably cold, rainy and windy. After four hours on the water, everyone else is frozen, wet, or both but the only discomfort I feel is in my hands. As I'm a growing boy, I may need to purchase another set of rain gear for cold conditions and I wouldn't dream of looking at anything but the 100mph. BPS. I'll likely hang on to my current set just in case I get back under 200lb.

He's a poet and doesn't know it.

I use a pair of jeweler's split ring pliers for replacing #4 and #6 trebles and some #2 depending on the size O ring they can be used for some of the smaller hooks. The only time I use an oval ring is on the line tie of the lure. Mustad Tripple Grip are a decent replacement as are Eagle Claw's Lazer Sharp 3X if you're looking for a round bend. Both are available in bulk packs which will help in keeping your cost down. I know it adds a bit to the cost of replacing hooks, but I recommend replacing the O rings when changing out hooks on older Muskie lures. They're cheap and can ensure landing a monster that could stress an old one to the breaking point.

Like yourself, I prefer mono for a leader along with a light wire hook. Almost without exception, I'll use a glass bead, sometimes I even use one when T-rigging. As for weights, you can't beat a tungsten weight for sensitivity, but when sound makes a difference, I find that double glass beads and a brass weight work best.