papajoe222

This is strictly a personal observation that is based on the history of my favorite lake, it has everything to do with the forage and in this case that is bluegills; From ice-out until they're on the beds, if it doesn't have an orange belly, I either won't use it or I'll give it one. It isn't that I can't catch some on a bait without it, I just seem to catch more with it. BTW, the fish in my Avitar was caught in April on a Bomber Long A with, you guessed it, an orange belly.

Welcome to BassResource You can find some great deals at garage sales and flea markets if you know the value of what you're buying. I recently picked up a box of cranks for $5. Most were garbage, but a number of them just needed new hooks. Online auction sites are another place you can find bargains, but again it's a 'buyer beware' If you're looking for more of the same lures you mentioned and can post a pic or two, I'm sure someone here can point you in the right direction.

The Sol is, hands down, my favorite reel. It can handle lighter lures (paired to the right rod) as well as baits in the 3/8oz. range. The gearing is a little slower than what some anglers prefer, but I believe the IPT is around 26in. which isn't all that slow. You stole that combo on the value of the reel alone and as was mentioned, there are a ton of upgrades available including gear swaps. BTW, the reason you can't find any reviews on this reel is because it's been out of production for a number of years, but is still very popular.

It would help to know the depth yo plan on targeting, but I'll attempt a general answer that you can adjust to conditions. Casting parallel to the drop with a crank that is tuned to run either slightly left or right (depending on which way you're facing) will keep it close to the drop, or banging into it . This is what I believe you want. Changing to cranks with different running depths will allow you to cover depths down to about 20ft. Walking a jig down a steep drop or up it, is a task that even the best anglers find extremely difficult. If there is enough taper to successfully accomplish it, that would be the way to approach depths below what a crank can reach. The deepest I've ever caught a bass was 30ft. so I couldn't comment on your concerns over catching deep fish.

Although I love tubes, I have to say that my favorite is a home tied hair jig. Just started tying my own because they work so well in cold water and moving water. There's just something about catching fish on something I made that makes it more enjoyable.

I'd go with the same skirt on both (chart/white), the first with chrome Colorado/Willow blades and the second with gold blades (same configuration). Chrome for bright days and gold for overcast.

Not familiar with either, but if you move this to the Rod, Reel and Line forum I'm sure you'll get plenty of responses.

Thanks for the replies everyone. The fact that he received it as a gift was the main reason for my hesitation. I took him up on the offer and offered having some fresh crabs shipped in so he can make us some of the best crab cakes this side of the east coast, not that I had alterior motives.

I'm looking to pick up a good reel with some line capacity and a good drag. A friend has a Curado 300E that he's used very little and is willing to let go, but I have no idea what a used one in good condition is worth and don't want to steal it from a friend for $100. He received it as a gift and I don't think he's aware of what it cost new. What reasonable offer would you consider for one?

Your Apple TV also has YouTube and there are a ton of informative videos on the site, one of which is BassResource. Use the search mode and enter whatever specifics your looking for (eg. 'topwater frog fishing), you'll have plenty of videos to choose from.

That line is a decent choice for our neck of the woods although I personally prefer 30lb. braid. I fished 12lb. Stren on my jig rod for years until I started using braid.

I have both, but since I discovered the Flambeau with Z Rust, they are all I purchase now. Their 1/2 satchel is great for storing your soft plastics in their original bags. I can grab what I need before heading out and stuff the majority of it in two of them.

Like Tom, I'll use a football jig almost exclusively on hard or rocky structure, Mostly 1/2oz. as the majority is done in less than 20ft. I'll keep it in contact with the bottom as much as possible and pause it when it makes contact with anything. Tom gives some great advice to anyone just getting into jig fishing, or that wants to up their game and this applies to a C-rig also listen up: "I cast a football jig anywhere from 60' to 120' and work it either down hill, sideways or uphill, depending on what the bass react to." That is the kind of information sharing that makes this site so great. Thanks Tom

Congrats to you both. Great story too.

I have two Columbia rain jackets, my latest purchase was their Sleeker offering. It's cut a little big, which allows layering for cooler days and doesn't restrict movement. When they say rain proof, you can take them at their word. A steady downpour has no chance against this lightweight and drawstring pants are also available. It doesn't compare to my Doctor Downpour for warmth, but it's much better suited for our favorite sport. For cold, rainy days, nothing beats my 100mph gear.

Sorry for your loss. It's sad that many folks on Medicare either can't or don't communicate their needs, concerns and medical history. Even more so when their health care provider doesn't take the time to locate the information. On my smart phone I keep a short history, both personal and family, along with a list of Rx's and emergency contact information. I suggest everyone do this, not just us seniors. You never know what circumstances will find you alone and in need of medical attention. Again tom, my condolences.

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Hush................You can always claim you were calling the dog.

I can't tell the difference between them, so I'm never sure what color jig head I have tied on.

I saw little, or no mention of topwater baits. I've done well on northeastern lakes with Torpedos and WoodChoppers on breezy days along with twin in-line buzzers during the summer. They seem to produce bigger fish, for me anyway, than plastics.

Welcome and thanks for your inquiry and also for letting us know there are some members that prefer to just sit back and read all the great information posted on the site. You're likely to get more than a few replies concerning favorite plastics, not only styles but brands. There are a ton of styles when it comes to soft plastics. Worms, grubs, tubes, beaver and creature style baits, 'Flukes', swimbaits...........you get the idea. For decades, the plastic worm was the #1 soft plastic mainly because of all the various ways it can be rigged. Anglers have been discovering different ways to rig other plastics and I doubt that fact still holds true. As for your inquiry about that thin tailed worm, it was likely a ribbon tailed worm and just about every company has their own version of one. The original Mann's Jelly Worm was the first one I thought of, even though it isn't a ribbon tail, as it was the first worm I recall ever throwing that had anything but a blunt tail.

Welcome to BassResource It's obvious something changed, as often happens in this sport. The fact that you fish a canal adds to those things. eg. current or the recent passing of a barge. Without being there, it's extremely difficult for a second party to determine what changed and therefore what you should change in your efforts to catch the fish.This is why an angler needs to be aware of so many things, the most important, IMO, is the activity level of the fish and what conditions affect it. Your presentation choice (cranks) targets active fish, or fish in a neutral mood. Chances are the fish were in a negative mood and therefore a more subtle presentation would have worked better. This is why, to be successful on a regular basis, you need to learn different presentations and techniques. Oh, I forgot one very important fact: Very few, if any, anglers catch fish every time out. Even the Elite Pros have fishless days, so don't get too discouraged when you have one.

Remove the spool and before reinserting, check the thumb release bar. It should be in the up (spool engaged) position. Back off the drag. remove the spool tension knob and reinsert the spool and side plate. If you have to force the side plate, there is likely something stuck where it shouldn't be. Possibly one of the brakes you loosened. Check them to make sure they're not turned.

You also may want to check the spacer under the cast control knob. They can become dimpled from being under pressure by the spool shaft and you end up overcompensating by turning up the tension.

Welcome to BR. There are a lot of clues that the fish can give you (once you catch one). Their activity level is one that I'm always looking to figure out. If you hook a fish deep in it's mouth, or if it hammers your moving bait you can be fairly sure that the fish are active (just the opposite for lightly hooked or subtle bites). If your plastic bait has bite marks near it's head is also another indicator. How they want a bait at any particular time is another. Did you catch that fish while your bait was paused or moving, falling , sitting still, or moving vertically? The biggest mistake I see anglers make is not paying attention to what their bait was doing and where it was in the water column when they catch a fish.