papajoe222

A priest, a minister, and a rabi are out fishing in a boat not far from shore. The rabi exclaimes: "I've left my medications in the car, I'll be right back." He proceeds to get out of the boat, walk to shore and return the same way. They all sit in silence until the minister pipes up and says:"Mercy Lord, I've left my reading glasses in the car, I'll be right back." Just as the rabi did he walks from the boat to shore and back, sits down and begins retying his bait. The priest is thinking to himself; I'm just as holy as these men, if they can walk on water, I should be able to. He just needs an excuse, so he says:"Mother superior is expecting me to call in a few minutes, but I left my phone in the car. I'll be right back." With that he gets up, takes one step out of the boat and promptly goes under. The rabi and minister laugh so hard they have tears in their eyes as the priest bobs up. "I don't understand" the priest says. "Neither do we" replies the minister, "We both thought you knew where the rocks were, too."

Thanks to all. This is one project I plan to take a lot of time on. Not only the actual building of it, but more so in planning of the components. My last build took me a total of about 20hrs. and was a simple spinning with trim bands, but no butt wrap. This will likely be a split grip with a top quality blank and guides. I gotta have something to do when I'm not actually fishing. I mean besides getting on any number of fishing forums.

Tube jigs are very popular in that area and for good reason. Besides being able to skip them fairly easily under docks, they have a lot of action on the fall and there is no need for a trailer. I'm refering to the jighead that's inserted into a plastic tube. the hooks are normally thinner than a traditional 'bass jig' and you can alter the action of the falling tube by where the line tie exits the tube. You can also rig that same jig head 'stupid' style for a weedless presentation. I've even fished Mega (6in.+) tubes for muskie and picked up some hawg bass doing so.

I base the size hook to use on the size of the plastic I'm fishing and by that I'm refering to the thickness of the bait not the length. I want a gap that has roughly twice the thickness of the bait I'm throwing. If you T-rig, push the plastic down on the hook shank and see how much of the hook's gap is exposed. This, in essence is the hook size you'll be fishing with. If you don't see enough hook for you, go up in size. One other thing I'll mention although if you fish tourneys, I'm sure you're aware of; at this time of year you get a lot of pick ups from bedding bass. Often they'll spit out your presentation before you can set the hook and more often than not, they won't have the hook far enough into their mouth if you can. The result is missed hook sets, not because of poor hook choice or bad technique, or too soft of a rod. The fish just never had your bait in it's mouth. On the other hand, if you have a fish on and end up loosing it, it's likely because of a poor hook set and the hook size will have a big impact on it.

So if I;m building a rod for myself (cranking handle on the right), the guides should spiral counter clokwise? I didn't realize left or right hand retrieve made a difference.

Almost any plastic bait can be used on a C-rig. It all depends what you expect to do. I prefer floating baits when doing so because they're dynamite on fish suspended just off of the bottom. Lately I've been switching to a football jig for bottom presentation. A quick tip; use mono as a leader material if you want your bait to float higher.

Terminator jigs get my approval for store bought with Strike King football jigs not far behind. I like the terminators because of the trailer keeper. They do a fantaastic job of keeping your trailer from sliding down the hookshaft. Depending on which lake you fish,the bottom color and water clarity should be your first consideration when choosing a jig and trailer color. If there is cabage weed, stick with the football jig as the pike will tear up a jig anywhere in the upper 2/3 of the water column. I've had good success on Deer Lake just over the boarder with those two jigs and a pumpkin/chartruse crawpapi.

Since I began building rods recently, I've been intrigued with the spiral wrap concept and seeing a beautiful rod Alpster put together, I'm ready to attempt one. I don't need to be sold on the concept behind it. I completely understand the benefits, but I'm reluctant to blindly pull the trigger on $200+ in components. What I would like to know from those of you that have used one of these rods is whether or not there is any noticeable difference in the rod's sensitivity, casting distance, etc.?

Look like they'd be a great bait for dead sticking. Seriously, I'm looking forward to seeing them too.

So I was a bit misleading in my original post; I still have flouro on my cranking reels. I use the same knot, but my hook set with cranks is more of a reel and sweep where with my single hook presentations it's more like I'm swinging for the fences, trying to cross their eyes and see how far out of the water I can make 'em fly at the same time. That's just the way I learned with the short, broom stick rods and stretchy mono that was available to us back in the stone ages. Seems like all I do is swing and miss with FC. I'm hitting around .850 with braid and mono and I still swing for the fences. Besides that, I'm a hard headed, card carrying old fart. We don't like change. Now where is my Little Green Box?

I know the majority of my problems with FC are a result of the way I set the hook and the knots that I use, but I'm tired of having to think about what line I'm using when tying a knot let alone before I set the hook. I can count the number of fish I missed last week as a result of the line breaking, but it would take both hands and an extra digit. It even happened when I was casting a 3/4oz jig. I'll admit I did miss a couple of fish on long casts I'd made with mono, but at the very least, I got my lure back. My solution is to cut up the remainder of the two spools of FC that I have into little itty bitty pieces (therapy) before recycling and spool the majority of my reels with braid and a copolymer leader. I trust the extra knot more than I trust flourocarbon. Thanks for letting me vent. Like if you feel the same.

Two of my big fish on the road trip came off a Fat Free Shad in this color. I likely would have gotten more, but I ended up loosing it to those freakin rock crevises they have down there. I switched to a SK sexy shad after that and only caught dinks. I hear you're very familiar with those.

While I doubt the musky were natural to that lake, they were introduced for a reason. Whether it was for the sportfishermen, or to controll numbers of other species makes no difference. I would say report them if you witness the butchering and at the very least say something to the offender. I guarantee you any trout fisherman that saw you butchering a trout and leaving it for the scavengers wouldn't hesitate to report you AND give you a piece of their uppetty mind

What a bait is designed for dosen't mean that is the only way it should be or can be used. I've fished flat sided and silent cranks in stained and muddy water down the same breakline others were fishing fat bodied cranks with rattles and cleaned up behind them. I've also had my butt kicked attempting to throw a bouyant, fat, crank with rattles in the spring with water temps in the low 50's, so take my advice for what it's worth.

Likely, you purchased baits that the seller made himself. A lighter baits translates to less salt in the mix which means they will take longer to sink. Both these factors can be both positive and negative when it comes to catching, so the only way to find out is to fish them. I prefer a bait will less salt when T-rigging or drop shotting and a heavier bait when wacky rigging. Not trying them out will only result in your wasting money and I assume the reason you purchased them was to save it. The best soft plastic bait I ever used was poured by a fellow in his garage. I got them for a song. Now his company sells thousands and they are no where near as cheap.

The bait I prefer for all around lipless presentations is the StrikeKing Diamond Shad. Sadly, it's been replaced in their line-up by the Red Eye Shad which is great as a drop bait. I prefer heavier baits and Rapala's OneKnocker fits that bill for me and is likely the most productive as a chuck and wind bait as it seems to hold it's depth better than Cordells or RattleTraps. Whatever bait I choose, there are only three colors I opt for; Chrome, either black/chrome or blue/chrome, crawfish, or firetiger. 1/2oz.and larger baits will get deep quick, but can be fished in the upper water column and these baits are rarely used in deeper water which makes them a killer on high pressured waters.

I know there are a lot of guys and gals on the site that hate to tie and re-tie baits and there are times when I, too prefer not to. I was reading about these clips and wondered what you all think of them. I like the fact that there realy is no clip to open/close, you just twist it on and off. Supposedly they don't alter a lure's action and add little weight to the nose of the bait. My one beef with a QuikClip is that you need different sizes for different diameter line ties and that leaves unclipping further down that list, though not ignored. If you've had the opportunity to try these out, please post your opinions.

Or Texas rigged.

I do a ton of night fishing, both from shore and from my boat. I rely on a pen light held in my mouth to tie baits and unhook fish. Cap lights focus the light too hight for tying with bifocals. I do however, have a cap light with a red LED that I'll turn on when fishing. It doesn't seem to bother the fish and adds a little more contrast than the night offers.

We all tried. This is the best I could do. On another note, I have some pics of the trip for Glen. Anyone know where I should send 'em?

The fish up here are still in pre-spawn, so I don't think what and where I'm catching them on would be of much help to you. However, when they do get in their summer mode, you can bet that they're going to relate to cover. The ponds here are featureless, so there is no structure for them to relate to. This makes available cover all that more important. Inside and outside weedlines and points and indentations in the weeds are all worth consideration and should be high on your list. Also, any time you see a mix of different types of weeds or a deadfall laying in the weeds, you've found a potential hiding place for the biggest fish in the area. Depending on the thickness of the vegetation, a senko rigged weedless and a frog would be my top choices in heavy weeds while a spinnerbait or Johnson Silver Minnow spoon would get the nod in the lighter stuff. If there is some structure like a creek channel and you can't get on any type of pattern in the weeds, by all means check it out with a moving bait like a spinnerbait or a crank. Good luck and don't forget the importance of catch and release on these smaller bodies of water.

Not working today, tomorrow, or ever if possible. That being said, I slept like a rock after the drive home. Definately wasted, but I had to play ball with my little guy toda and wouldn't you know it I fell while going after one of his throw backs (the kid has an arm) brusied my good shoulder and my good wrist and pulled the muscles in my upper left chest. Won't be fishing any time soon, but on the bright side it happened after the trip. Thanks again to all especially those that were willing to share their time on the water with an arrogant yankee.

Home in the arms of my better half at last. I already talked her into going next year. Glad to hear everyone made it home safe and sound (haven't heard from Long Mike yet), Thank the Lord and thank you all for a great time. I, too didn't know what to expect and the trip far exceeded my expectations. You all did a great job of planning and everyone's hospitality helped keep my belief that most people are good, you just need to give them a chance to show it. Thanks again and good night, this old trucker is tired.

For me, stick worms are my finess presentations. I use casting gear almost exclusively and these are easily cast. When I want a straight fall, I'll rig them wacky style, otherwise I'll fish them weightless like a Fluke, but deeper.

I discovered this bait last season. I picked it up at a garage sale, switched out the hooks and started using it. I fished it the same way I normally fish a Torpedo or a DevilsHorse. Short pops of the rod tip with pauses inbetween. I've never fished a prop bait like a buzzbait, but that's not to say that style retrieve wouldn't work. It took me a couple of weeks to find these lures online, but when I did, I picked up a couple. Kind of light for baitcasting gear, but if you're a spinning guy they're an awesome choice.