BIG M

String, I think I've finally found that tight wiggle you've been looking for. the funny thing is that it's from a semi round bait. The Homer got 8 bites during a test round.

The bottom bait is my version of citrus shad. I like to add a little chart for dirty water.

balsa wood is the mose bouyant and can take a lot of abuse. Sealed properly with a couple of coats of epoxy and it will last a long time.

I like the paint very much.

Here are some prop darters and flatside I just finished

That would be holographic foil on the two bottom baits. bmadd, the popper is 2 1/8 long, not sure on the weight my scale needs batteries. I used #8 hooks and it sits almost level in the water. It was real easy to get it walking. I've got another one on the table to put togethre that's 2.5 long. I hope to test that one this weekend.

Thad, I brush it on. bmadd, I didn't make the cup face deep enough on that one so not so much pop/spit. It made a heck of a little walking bait.

There was a great tutorial from Whittler on building a crank bait with simple tools. I'll see if I can dig it up.

LBH, it's a rod turning motor. You can find them at any place that sells rod building supplies. I used a switch from a lamp building kit for the power. I found a big box of those little clamps at Sears.

Yellowing Devcon is the reason I went looking for something new. I still use D2T over my sealer to give me smooth surface to paint on. I doubt I'll use it again as a clear coat.

Here is my first batch using Flex Coat, 2 coats on each bait. So far so good on the new top coat.

here is my simple but effective drying wheel

Devcon yellows big time and I've got boxes full baits to prove it. Devcon yellow due to it's low heat breaking point, put in a hot car, boat, shop or any place and the bait will get a yellow tent. Don't ever put a set of golf clubs together with it or you'll start slinging heads off. Here are two examples of yellow devcon. These two baits have been hanging in the shop for 2 weeks.

sounds if water based paints don't like the glass resin. Why not use that as a sealer then clear with an epoxy. I working with Flex Coat right now and so far it's been pretty good. I really like the long pot life but it is a really thin clear coat. Need a least two coats on the cranks but it is crystal clear. Devcon will not give you a lot of working time to coat baits as big as the ones you are making.

Devcon is easy to find, hard as a rock, and so simple it's stupid proof. But it's not the best top coat out there, you have to find what works best for you and fills your needs. Does this glass resin dry clear, does it yellow over time, is it water proof? A few questions that need answers. I just coated my first batch of baits with flex coat and I make be making a switch from devcon.

I used a rod turning motor and some scrap wood I had. Attached a 8"round wood disc from the hobby store. What type of baits do you plan to turn, that will determine what type of drying wheel you need. I can only turn smaller bass sized cranks on mine.

Man, if that's only the 2nd try (I hate you) kidding of course. I'm just jealous becuase I don't have that kind of skill with the airbrush. That bait looks perfect.

12 hrs to full cure but I usually wait 24hrs to make sure. 5 min is only used to install the hardware.

That's impressive for you first attempt on a bait.

I would say that's pretty good for your 1st attempt or 100th attempt.

Stamina has pre-cut lexan bills in several different sizes of square or round. I must be getting old, I should have remember that last night. I'm with you LBH, if I can find bills pre-cut that's what I use. Saves me about 15-20 min per lure.

The only pre-cut bills I've found are made of Garolite. Jann's has 5 different styles. I'll do some digging around today to try and find some pre-cut lexan bills.

I also ment to say great looking bait

I do it the same way but I'm not very go at it. Here's a tip, go to a craft or scrap booking store and get a swivle knife to cut your stencils. It makes for very clean cuts in the plastic.

Lightly sand or you will hit the paint on the thin spots. Do 1 section at a time and all will be perfect.