bwjay

I totally agree!

That could happen due to normal wear and tear that the rod should be able to withstand. You could baby it and fish it carefully, never boat flip, and then one day the tip breaks when you're working a big spook... user error, or accident waiting to happen, due to manufacturing "defect"?

My 73XH showed up today, and I have to say I am very pleased!! The rod weighs in at 4.7oz, pretty light for its power and length I think! And, get this..... the balance is awesome with a Bantam, awesome for how long and high power it is, anyway. It balances maybe an inch in front of the reel seat screw. What's crazy is, though my Helium3s are a little tip heavy, the 7'HXF Helium3 at 4oz is less balanced with a Bantam than this 7'3XHF Expride at 4.7oz with the same Bantam. Longer rod, heavier power, and it's more balanced?!? Incredible... I think I will be able to frog and flip with this for hours on end. I also think I got what I wanted, a stiffer rod for ripping lures free from weeds, as the Helium3 HXF just bends too deep when you really get stuck. The Expride is far more stiff; when twitching the rod as if I were walking a topwater, all of my Helium3s do a big exaggerated wobbly dance, while the Expride has a much-abbreviated wobble that doesn't travel as far down the blank and wobbles for about half the time of the Helium3 7'HXF. It would seem that the Expride is definitely a stiffer rod. My hope is that it's not so stiff that fish come unbuttoned; I will probably have to fine-tune my drag to allow for head shakes and body rolls without unloading the rod. At least the stiffness will help with burying big frog/jig hooks! Besides the mostly minor concern about keeping fish pinned, I'm very excited about this rod, and it's going to be hard to let it sit around for the next 5 months while I wait for spring, and even then, it's for fishing summer junk, so I will have to wait more like 6-7 months to put it to use. At least I know I'm well-equipped! Oh, and I had a dream last night about breaking this Expride too. Broke the top 12 inches off the rod by shutting a door on it or something dumb. Clearly I am concerned after cracking my first Expride with a Ned head coming out of a tree at 100mph. Let's hope I don't do something as careless with this one! I'm leaving it in the rod tube until it's time to fish it...

The Helium3 blanks from 2019 (since there is some variation year to year, or at least every few years it seems) are very sensitive. I have not had the fortune of trying a GLX, but I have read many times that the Helium3 blanks meet or surpass the GLX for sensitivity. They are honestly very similar in action (H3 vs GLX MBR) which is really cool. The H3 is like a budget GLX with the only real nitpicks being a lower quality handle, and maybe the guides? I wish they were a tiny bit bigger, but my double uni knot passes through them without much issue, it just sometimes wants to hang up on the tip which likely wouldn't change even if all of the guides including the tip were larger. I'm pretty satisfied with my 4 H3s (got the 6'8LMHF spinning this fall) and look forward to hearing about the new blanks. I may be a guinea pig if Trey launches them at a discount to get people interested.

I agree; I don't know if I want to be an early adopter, but maybe if Trey offers an initial batch at a discount, to get the word out, I think it could be very good for them. That is, of course, assuming the blanks are actually good.

I agree with the others; hooksets would have to be huge because of the slow action of the rod. Not to mention, glass rods aren't exactly light and I like a light rod when I'm twitching it all day long. My wrist was complaining after a single day of 4-5 hours using a SC Premier 7'MH for frogging. Not the heaviest rod nor the lightest, but heavier than I like. I imagine a glass rod of the same length (at the same or slightly higher power) would be even heavier. No thanks. Kistler's Helium3 line is great for frogging because the tip is fairly soft, so you can cast them a mile, and work them easily, but they hit the backbone fairly soon. They say it's an XFast taper but it's more like Fast if you ask me. It doesn't "shut off" until about midway down the blank, but you get some real power about 2ft from the tip and it quickly hits deep backbone from there. They are slightly more parabolic than I prefer for the heavy cover frogging that MN brings in the summer, so I got an Expride 7'3XH for dragging those 3-5 pounders (I hope!) with 3-5 pounds of weeds. The Helium3 7'H can do it, but it bends further than I like. So yeah, long story short, I wouldn't use a glass rod for frogging, for weight, and because they're usually not fast enough for the hooksets you need for big frog hooks.

Oh no. My wallet can't take anymore. Please, no........ If they release a ML bait finesse casting rod between 6' and 6'8", I am a goner. Would've bought such a rod in the Zbone lineup during this sale if they actually had one. Or, an ultra stout frogging/punching rod... yes, I do fear for my wallet.

I use 15lb on my 2500 reels with no problems. A lot of people like 10, but you can still fit so much line on the spool with 15 and it helps with abrasion resistance, and it still casts a country mile. No reason not to use 15lb IMO.

Yup. I ended up going with the Expride; it's cheaper and I know they're very sensitive and lightweight. I considered just scrapping the idea and continuing to use my 7' HXF Helium3 but I know I could benefit from a stiffer rod because we get so many weeds in the summer here. If you're frogging here you're almost always gonna be dragging a fish through junk, no way around it. It will be mostly for frogging, but I will definitely punch with it as well with 1oz bullet weights.

15lb braid is about as thin as sewing thread. You should get some side by side with 50lb braid and come back with a picture and tell us if you still think 15lb braid looks like rope.

I need a stiffer rod for fishing the thick stuff next year. I'm basically set on the Expride 7'3" Extra Heavy, as I prefer shorter rods, and this seems to be the best rod I can find for what I want to do. I'd love a 7 foot XH but alas, you don't always get what you want. I am curious about the Dobyns Champion Extreme line, though, and I'd love the 746C. It's just $70 more than the Expride which is already up there in price. Assuming 20% off both rods, which one should I go for? Anything that would make the Dobyns a better buy at $349 vs Expride at $279? Lighter weight? Better warranty? Better balance? Thanks!

I bet a Kistler Helium3, 7'3" HXF would do it. I have the 7' (prefer shorter rods) and it's not bad for frogging, but I am looking for a slightly stiffer rod (going to use it as a light punch rod as well) so the Helium3 isn't a perfect frog rod. It will definitely work for 6" Senkos and maybe even 5", though I'd probably stick to 6" and up just so the rod loads up a bit more on the cast and retrieve. I use the 6'9MHXF for 5" Senkos and it works wonders. The 7'HXF gets frogging, flipping, heavy swim jigs, and anything around the 3/4oz-1oz range. I don't throw big worms but if I did, the 7'HXF would be great. The action of the Helium3 blanks makes them very versatile, like an MBR taper from G. Loomis. There are still better rods for certain applications, and the Helium3 blanks are a bit tip-heavy in my experience, but they're lightweight, sensitive, and versatile, and I like them for that.

From what I understand, the taller spool of the FL aids in casting distance, and there are some other minor improvements, but the FK had no deal breaker issues and is still a great reel, even more so at the discount prices you can find.

Right. 20% more money. And the Bantam is only $80 more than the Chronarch MGL, only 30% more money. You can keep making that argument... I already have a hard enough time justifying $350 for a reel (Bantam) before taxes. The JDM price for Mets is very attractive, but I don't have the tools or knowledge to replace the gears and I unfortunately have other things to spend my money and time on (but maybe someday I'll learn reel maintenance). If they just released a new Met with brass gears and ideally some other fancy new stuff, I'd probably drop the cash on it. BTW, I keep seeing you type Bantum, but it's Bantam.

I wish I knew more about reels so I could suggest how they could make it better. I really don't! If they put in brass gears and gave it a new sexy paint job, that'd be enough for me. Especially since I'd like to have such a reel under warranty, and if I buy JDM (way cheaper) and swap in brass gears, I have the reel I want, but I'm now entirely responsible for fixing any problems that come up, or I sell a problematic reel at a big loss to someone who wants to put in the time to fix it. So... just offering a brass gear Met in USDM for the same price the Met is right now would probably get me to buy one, just one. They're too expensive for me to ever justify buying more than that. Of course, I have a third Bantam on the way, but I got it on a discount so get off my back OK?? ?

I think so too. My fingers are crossed in hopes that Shimano releases a new Metanium MGL with brass gears and a dark gunmetal color... or a new product entirely that is still lighter than a Bantam but is almost as smooth as one, with brass gears. Just no DC... I generally don't like hearing "machines" when I'm out in nature (especially on a wilderness canoe trip with almost no technology).

It's interesting you say that, because I have sort of seen the same sentiment echoed by others. When people talk about high end NFC blanks, the NRX, Exprides, etc. you always hear about how sensitive they are. But I really don't see much of that with any St. Croix rods, even Legend Tournament, Elite, and Extreme (SC4/5/6) blanks. They just seem to get lighter weight, and the cork is nicer. But surely there must be more than weight savings. Still, because people don't tout the high end SC blanks as being really sensitive, I've looked elsewhere for my bottom contact applications where I really want ultimate sensitivity. I still would love to try/own a Legend Elite though. As for the confidence in the SC2 Premier blank, I hear you there. They honestly feel like you could whack them against a tree and they'd be just fine. They're not the most sensitive rods I've tried or owned, but I can feel blades turning/knocking, tails paddling, and different rock structure, so they're really not bad. It's not the same as my Helium3 NFC blank which allows me to feel sand vs mud vs rock, which allows me to feel when my crankbaits are ticking grass, and when the action of a lure is messed up because I ran it through weeds. But again, the Premiers are no slouch and I am pretty confident in them as durable, dependable rods.

That's what's a bummer about it. It's not uncommon. The level of smoothness (overall, including tightness of handle, geariness, all that) of my Bantam was, in no small way, superior to the Chronarch MGL I had, and definitely the Metanium MGL I tried at the store (which I'm sure has been thoroughly "used"). And obviously my SLX and SLX XT (which I still like). I wish it was more common not to compromise on higher end reels when it comes to feel. I get that weight savings are good, but... brass gears can't add more than what, 0.1-0.25oz of weight, right? I know weight adds up quick and if they made exceptions everywhere, it would add an ounce to the reel, but it would be nice if brass gears were more common in higher end reels.

I'm right handed and I started using left hand retrieve spinning reels. It feels natural to reel with the left and work the bait with the right. My right hand is more sensitive than my left and my body is used to compensating for hooksets on the right side of my body, with regard to balance. I have much more dexterity in my right wrist for imparting action on baits, working the rod, all that. I see no reason why a hand that turns a knob should be the hand that your body has invested all sorts of specialization into. Yes, it might help you start/stop more precisely, it MIGHT help you turn at a uniform rate (so you don't reel in a jerky motion), but so far I haven't had any issues. I really prefer to use my dominant hand and arm to control the rod, the bait, and the fish. My untrained left hand/wrist/arm just needs to worry about turning a handle at the right rate. Ultimately it's a personal thing, but I'd tell anyone just starting out to use their dominant arm to hold the rod and use their non-dominant arm to turn the handle. If you decide that it doesn't feel right, awesome, but I think most people will find that their dexterous hand/arm is the one best used for the work that actually requires dexterity (everything but turning a handle).

I did read about Mojo tips breaking more often than they should, but you never know the scenario, could have been a misuse of the rod, or maybe those rods got damaged in shipping or something. Personally I like the look and feel of the Premiers I've had, and I really do prefer to buy US-made over anywhere else, so I'll continue to recommend them. A Dobyns Sierra for $115 is a great deal though and I would definitely jump on one for that price.

I can't offer any advice on Dobyns unfortunately, as I have not been able to hold or use the rods I'd like to try, but at the top end of your price range, take a look at St. Croix's Mojo Bass and Premier lines. I haven't owned any Mojos, but I've bought 3 Premiers (casting: 6' MF, 7' MHF, spinning: 6' MF) and besides being a bit tip heavy (pretty common TBH), I've been pretty satisfied with them. They feel durable, they're fairly sensitive (compared to my very sensitive Helium3s), and they have been comfortable to use. They also have a good warranty and customer service which is why a lot of people like them. As for your desired rod, a 7' MF, you may consider St. Croix's 6'10 MLXF blanks which a lot of people seem to like. Their power ratings tend to be a bit understated (so the rod is a bit more stout than they say, ML being more like M, MH more like H) so you could definitely get by with their ML power blanks, if you're looking for a "true" M. As a bank fisherman who broke an Expride by trying to free a Ned head from a tree branch (it came off and hit the blank, glad it wasn't my eye/sunglasses), I would recommend you go for a shorter rod if possible. It will be more accurate, and being lighter weight, it should be more sensitive as well. St. Croix has a lot of 6' to 6'6" rods. Their warranty is important too for bank fishermen such as myself, who may accidentally damage their rods. Best of luck in your search!!

Hey, welcome to BassResource! I can't speak from experience for any of the rods or reels you have suggested, but I can try to address a few points you brought up. * 12lb braid on a ML power rod should be just fine. You could even step up to 15lb for a little more abrasion resistance, and it's still stupidly thin line. The thicker line will make knots easier to tie (and make them hold stronger too), so keep it under consideration. * Generally, as you alluded to, if you go up in rod power rating, you can expect less sensitivity. So a lighter powered blank should be more sensitive, but only within the same rod line from the same manufacturer. It's going to vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, especially since rod power ratings are not standardized (some people's M is other people's MH, etc) * You probably don't need to step up in power if your fish are pretty small, but if you have any sort of desire to hook into a 5lb fish on a regular basis, a M power rod is the way to go, but it won't load up/cast far with light baits like the ML. Maybe you start with the ML and in the future you step up to a more expensive, more sensitive M rod. * More reel bearings ~= smoother reel. Not always the case but that's generally what they are for. Sometimes more bearings will mean a more rigid feel, as they reduce "slop" or "play" between some of the parts, so they are tighter together. Having tons of bearings doesn't really "matter" but if your reel has 2 bearings and feels like junk, then it does matter. * Reel weight could be a factor, but with cheap gear, you're not gonna get real light. A heavier reel with your specific rod might help balance it, if the rod is tip-heavy. In that case I'd take a heavier reel and a more balanced combo overall. But with a ML rod, I have a hard time thinking you'd need an 8-9oz reel to balance it, so maybe a lighter reel is better for your rod choice. * Larger spinning reels do feel more smooth to me as well, so that might be why the Epixor XT felt the best, but if you can try a 1000 or 2500 size, give it a shot. I believe I have read that lines comes off better from larger spools, and so they cast better, so keep that under consideration if you're trying to go for a small reel. * If the Revros felt crappy, even if you know the warranty is good in your area, don't buy it. "At least if this piece of junk breaks I can get another piece of junk for a small fee". lol NOT THAT IT'S JUNK! Just that you said it feels the least smooth/refined of all the reels you mentioned. * While I do love my Shimano reels (both BC and spinning), I don't own any reels from them under $150 (Stradic FK being the lowest tier). I have tried the Sahara a couple times at the store, and it feels OK. I don't like the color schemes of the lower end Shimano spinning reels but they feel smooth enough to me. If you can find one in your price range that feels good and you're OK with how it looks, you can generally depend on Shimano for performance, so if you like it, keep it in the running. Hopefully this helps! If you have any follow-up questions about what I said, I'll do my best to answer them. And again, welcome! -j

There isn't some list of "best Shimano reels" out there that'll explain it for you. But some reels have features that others don't, and it's up to you to figure out what does what. Sometimes it's a little easy to guess. Like, the Aldebaran MGL 50 has a 50 sized spool which is quite small. It's also a very lightweight reel. One might think it is for finesse techniques since you won't be casting far with it, and sure enough, it is a finesse-focused reel. But for reels like the Chronarch MGL or Bantam MGL, well, they're both just all-around winners. The Chronarch is lighter, the Bantam is more solid and smooth. IMO, if you want a solid-feeling reel that inspires confidence, look no further than the Bantam. Snag one from Digitaka for just over your budget range. You won't be disappointed. For any other reel info, I recommend watching YouTube videos and using Google to search BassResource, like "site:bassresource.com chronarch mgl vs bantam mgl" and stuff like that. Obviously without the quotes. Best of luck finding a reel to love! Shimano has many.

My Helium3s have soft tips and when using copolymer (Yo-Zuri Hybrid) I find it really hard to get a crisp snap required for jerkbaits. I feel like I have to really rip on the rod as fast as I can. I still don't feel like I'm getting the right action. With braid to leader, however, it's pretty easy to get a nice snap. You can feel it. For applications where you really need a good twitch or snap, I think a stiffer tip OR braid is the way to go. That's the conclusion at which I've arrived, anyway.

I've been going back and forth on what to use for next year's season. Here's what I used this year, and what I intend to use next year. First, I was using: * 40lb Super8SlickV2 braid to 14lb Sniper FC (or 14lb FC Leader) for all applications except frogs and flipping * 40lb Super8SlickV2 or Sufix 832 braid for frogs and flipping Then, I got tired of breaking off leaders at the bank and having to retie, so I switched it up to: * 10lb Yo-Zuri Hybrid copolymer for everything except frogs and flipping * 40lb Super8SlickV2 OR Sufix 832 braid for frogs and flipping What I intend to do next year, with at least 1 combo for each line below: * 80lb braid for muskies * 65lb braid for frogs and flipping/punching * 65lb braid to 16lb FC100 leader for flipping, big worms, big jigs, big swimbaits * 40lb braid to 16lb FC100 leader for worms, jigs, spinners, cranks, swimbaits, topwater, jerkbaits * 15lb FC/mono for jigs, spinners, cranks, swimbaits, topwater, jerkbaits * 15lb braid to 10lb Sniper FC for dropshot, Ned, tubes, finesse jigs As much as I don't like tying leaders in the field, the sensitivity and hookset response of braid to leader is too good not to use it for bottom contact presentations. I don't need it for moving baits, but I want my combos to be multidisciplinary when possible, so my 40lb braid to leader combo can be used for moving baits as you see, but it's more for worms and jigs. The 15lb FC combo is more for moving baits but I will also use it for bottom contact as well. I am thinking of trying Tatsu because line memory screws up the action of a lot of baits and casting ability, and I have read very good things. However, Tatsu is ultra expensive so I'm going to try a few other things before it, like some 12-15lb Trilene Sensation mono as I know one angler in MN has had great success with it and it's cheap enough to try. I do like Yo-Zuri Hybrid, really strong stuff, but it has a decent amount of memory and it's not the most sensitive thing. Plus I feel like it stretches a LOT; when using my Helium3s that have quite a bit of flex to them, I swear I gotta really rip on the rod to set the hook. And jerkbaits are almost pointless with that setup I think, since I can't get the rod tip to snap the bait. It's just too soft. So, I have some experimenting to do.