teamfyss

I’m extremely interested in the SLX, I’ve only been able to play with a right hand retrieve but I know they do offer lefty, which I prefer. That’s another issue I have, I don’t exactly know which reel fits each type of fishing I do best. Maybe that’s why I’m so fond of the magforce Z because this reel is my all around baitcaster at the moment. And I’m definitely changing baits up a lot. Also, what makes the SV better in certain areas than a CT?

That's exactly it haha, I guess I'm just being a bit biased since I'm having luck with the Daiwa. I'll have to give shimanos different styles a fair chance.

I recently just got into baitcasters and picked up a Daiwa Fuego CT. I actually really like the reel, once I got the hang of it I didn't want to pick up my spinning gear again. But my question is, if I'm comfortable with the magforce system should I stick with it? Or will a centrifugal be relatively similar.. I'd like to branch out and try other brands but for some reason I have the idea that I'll be taking a step backwards with any other system. And believe me I know the Fuego is a very budget friendly, entry level reel. Reason I ask is I'm looking at the Diawa CR80 as its light and small, but has the old school brakes. As a lot of other companies do too. Thanks!

Being from South Dakota, 90% of the population targets walleye and I grew up with a spinning rod in hand. Now that I’m getting the hang of baitcasters I don’t even want to go back to spinning gear, yet I know how reliable and simple they are to use.. ?

I have no problem buying a used sonar if it’s in good shape! Thanks for the help guys I’ll have to narrow down my options at this point.

That's a good point, I'll want a quality unit regardless of what boat it's on. But the majority of lakes I fish are relatively small compared to what most consider "big water" and I really enjoy pitchin' the shoreline. I guess it all comes down to if I want GPS mapping or just a plotter. Awesome, that definitely helps. I know I want at least a 7" screen, and GPS maps would be a plus over the basic plotter. But I know that the difference in price between the two is another $150-200, which makes me wonder where I draw the line. It will be back toward the transom, and I would like to run it on my cranking battery which makes wiring easy too. Like I said above I fish relatively small lakes and enjoy pitching the shore quite a lot, but almost all of the lakes around me hold walleye as well so the unit may get put to use out in deeper water too. Nothing over 30' I'd say though. I think I'd like to stay under $500 for this unit, no need to go overboard. No pun intended.

Looks like this has built in structure scan and is advertised as the Locator Bundle, so I'm assuming it will come with everything needed, transducer w/ mount etc.

Here's my situation, I got a heck of a deal on a 16' Crestliner fish hawk, tiller boat with a 25hp Johnson. I recently picked up a used ulterra and mounted it, and I'm looking at fish finders now. This will be my first "official" boat, as I've had 10-12ft jon boats in the past. Am I getting carried away or should I invest in a high end fish finder too? I guess my other option would be to put a budget unit on my "budget" boat.. and more than likely upgrade my sonar when I upgrade boats. For the record I still feel the boat is worth more than I've put into it, but who really even knows. And the unit I'm interested in is a Lowrance HDS 9 Gen 3 (half price at my local scheels…$1299 instead of $2499) pretty hard to look away from 50% off.

I was just told the same thing on another post! Stay away from the ‘X’ models.. but man do they fit my price point. I’m trying to buy a budget fish finder for my 16’ tiller, I’m trying to keep my cost of electronics less than the cost of the boat itself ?? and I’m d**n close to that. Garmin seem great but I’ve only had experience with a little 4” kayak unit..

Well shoot... that's what I was looking at. $329 for a 7 inch with side and down imaging plus GPS plotter.

Look into Lowrance HOOK2 units, I’m about to pick one up from their website refurbished with a 1 year warranty! Prices are hard to pass up.

I think I just read that same thing, so its the opposite of what we thought? Chartplotter can't pin point my location on a map but I'm able to study that map on the unit ? If I want to track my lines and all that I'll want mapping. Or do I have it all backwards LOL

That's about all I can come up with as well, looking forward to some clarification. thanks

maybe you can answer this question then, I see that different HOOK2 units have GPS mapping and others have GPS plotter... whats the difference?

Just curious if anyone has had luck with the Lowrance refurbished fish finders, I'm looking at getting a HOOK2 7x GPS and its hard to pass up! Is there anything I should know before buying? Whether it's about the refurbished program or the hook2 unit all together. I appreciate all info, thanks!

I do like the idea of being able to bridge the batteries if one is getting too low. But I think I'm going to wire it in as simple as I can and leave the switches out for now. If I feel the need I can always add them, correct me if I'm wrong. I bought the boat for a great deal but feel like I'm putting a little more than I should into it. It's a 1996 Fish Hawk 16 tiller. All in all I hope I enjoy the boat after all this work, then again maybe I'm being dramatic haha!

That's exactly as I was taught, I'm not so familiar with using breakers and disconnects or other safety parts. Instead of using the disconnect switch, can't I do the old manual disconnect trick each time I get off the water? Save myself some wiring. I'll be keeping grounds common, and will have all accessories wired with fuses. I'll also have a fuse box before switch closer to battery.

That's a good point, my apologies. I was hoping someone had a quick simple trick I didn't know about but it looks like its just the opposite! Better safe than sorry, i'll get to the drawing board with my new information.

Yeah I've read into that, I guess I just don't have the brain for electrical work.. none of it makes sense unless it's the exact lay out that I plan on going with. It's hard for me to take bits and pieces. In this case my cranking and house will be the same battery, I wont have a float switch etc.. maybe i just need an electrician to come do it for me LOL

I will be adding that to my amazon list, thanks! I'd like to do it right the first time, and minimize a headache later on.

Well I’m already pretty discouraged about the whole thing and everyone seems to have their own way of doing things. I’m trying to keep it as simple as possible. With the least wires possible. Why the extra on/off switch..?

Currently learning the basics and re wiring my boat for bilge, aerator, pump, and nav lights. From the battery I’ll run the positive into a fuse block, which I’ll run to a 4 way switch. From the switch I’ll run each positive into a lateral fuse box before going to the accessory. Now everything online is telling me to run all of my grounds back to a buss bar, but if my original fuse block has negative ground spots I could surely use that, correct? Feel free to critique as you see fit, if there’s anything you would change I’d like to know and understand why you would! Thanks. edit- I plan on using 10 gauge from the battery terminals and 14 gauge everywhere else.

Perfect thanks for the help guys

do you think you can throw 1/4oz squarebills on it?

That's what I wanted to hear! I feel like the 703c will have enough back bone to handle spinnerbaits and jerk baits but moderate enough to keep a crankbait fish hooked like a dedicated CB rod ?