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Looks awesome man. Doing art to catch more bass is the only art I'd ever do. Props to you for using your Noodle

Don't know much about deep cranking but For square bills Red (craw) pattern for spring and fall Bluegill pattern Sexy shad Ghost shad And maybe if you fish real muddy water then a full on highlighter (chartreuse)

I'm not super great with reel diagnostics, but I do baseline reel maintenance (cleaning, lubing, etc) but I never take apart any of them to do the full surgery. I've noticed a little bit of a rougher retrieve when I crank the handle. I wouldn't call it a grinding noise, that is too far. But it's noisy and I can feel something as I turn the crank I've never had this problem on any of my other reels, but this is my least expensive in my arsenal. Looking to begin doing surgery on my own reels so any suggestions on where and how to look/start that would be awesome

More expensive baits aren't necessarily better than expensive baits. They are different. Take lipless cranks for example. The Cotton Cordell Super Spot and the Bill Lewis Rattle trap are probably the best two options in the entire market, and the in the SK Red eye shad is in the mix somewhere too. All the cheapest on the market. However, in certain applications those baits just won't be able to produce for you like a Lucky craft or a Jackall would. Say for example your fish are on a lipless bite deeper in the water column and you want to work it off the bottom similar to a jig, or work it through the strike zone slowly. The super spot and the bill lewis are too light of baits for these applications and you'd catch more fish with the LC or jackall. That doesn't mean that they catch more fish because they are more expensive, it's the characteristics of the bait and how it runs that make it better for some circumstances than others. Same goes for Jerkbaits. I fish vision 110's, LC flash pointers, Jackall Rerranges, all great for certain applications, but sometimes the Rapala Ripstop just can't be beat. Another example would she the YUM Dinger. Some days I can chuck a Gary at a bed fish for hours with nothing, switch to a dinger and have the fish hammer it right off the bat. Not because the fish liked the fact it was a cheaper bait, but because dingers have less salt content than a Gary causing it to have a slower fall, which is what they wanted that day. It's more important to know the qualities of each bait rather than the price tag and choose which best suits your application!

I just a lot of ponds that have chocolate milk water clarity. I found black and blue is the ticket earlier in the season and in the dog days of summer when the water clarity is at it's worst it's junebug all day. Plum is also a good option in the summertime.

As a general rule of thumb any bait you move with your rod as opposed to your reel faster the faster the better (to a degree, you don't need 9:1 or 10:1 reels for a dang senko). I have a tournament MB which I really really like. It is on my frogging and punching set up because it is the 8.3:1 model and it's crucial for me to get the fish out of the cover as fish as possible, and reel my bait back in when im done my presentation to make more casts. Absolutely 100% this your soft plastics set up. Worms, t rigs, jigs, etc. A lot of people have already said to throw it on braid and this is somewhat a matter of preference, but I really stand by a quality fluoro over braid. I've read some articles where professional anglers have mentioned the noise that braid makes as it rubs against different structure is foreign to fish and they've noticed less bites. I have two bottom bait set ups one with 15lb seaguar invisx and one with 17lb. I found some braids can sometimes affect your baits action in the water on the fall as it is more buoyant than a fluoro. Regardless, if you do decide to use braid. 99% of the time tie a leader. The only time you don't need to is fishing straight into pads or mats in water that's about as clear as chocolate milk. Ideally, you'd have both so when you do need a braid to get a fish out of the slop you can tie on a t-rig or a jig and horse em outta there like I do with my tourney mb (which really only ever happens in one of the ponds I fish and only in the summer) and for all other plastic applications you will have the fluoro ready to go.

I'm sorry I'm a little confused have you decided what you will be using this set-up for? It's important to decide what the set up will be for before you decide what line you should use

I'm looking to start logging catches I've made for bass over 14in. I'm pretty set on doing it in excel, and not really looking to use any apps (I don't even like to remember my phone exists while i fish?). Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions on how to set it up.. should I make different sheets for different locations or do it by year, etc. If anyone has any suggestions on how to set one up or some good tips on it or even a file template I could look at I'd greatly appreciate it!

Ooops my bad. There's the GP Shad on the left and on the right is my chatterbait arsenal. If you have any suggestions or recommendations I'd love to hear em, I usually only fish GP and Black & Blue Chatterbaits where I fish so I am new to shad colored baits.

Here you go I7FLq.heic

I have been exclusively fishing dirty jigs for about 2 years now, I might have to give this combo a try. I might be looking too far into minor details but is there any significance to the eyelet being horizontal as opposed to vertical? I've never seen it like that and I was just wondering if there was a method to the madness

I've only every tied on a PB & J or an Alabama craw as far as brown jigs go and couldn't seem to get on a nice pattern with them. Got any recommendations ?

If I had to make it as simple as i possibly could: Anything that goes on a hook: Green pumpkin & Black and Blue Skirt colors: Green Pumpkin, Black and Blue, Shad, White & Chartreuse Cranks: Red (craw), sexy shad, ghost shad, firetiger, bluegill Jerkbaits: Ghost Minnow, pearl, White & Chartreuse Any Topwater (belly color): white, black Honorable mentions: Watermelon (red flake or seed), plum, junebug

Hey martin, I can't say I fish many rivers but I do fish a lot of ponds throwing: Chatterbaits Jerkbaits Lipless Finesse Jigs Flipping jigs T-rigs And when it warms up a bit my top water I'll probably use a whopper plopper to throw it in areas that were covered in aquatic plants and pads in the summer time.

hey raging owl, I don't know for sure if you are using a spinning reel or not, but I'm going to go about the rest of this post assuming you are.. 1.) I read your post above about getting snagged, this should almost never happen with a texas rig because it's weedless, just make sure you're doing what' called "texposing", there's a link to a video right there to show you but it's just threading the plastic all the way through the worm and then tucking the hook point into the outer side of the soft plastic. Hypothetically this should make you completely weedless, and give you the best hook up ratio. 2.) It's spring time right now and we're still in pre-spawn, soon fish will be sitting on beds which is the perfect time for you to get a hang of the senko technique. If you are not familiar with bed fishing, it's just the process of seeing a male bass guarding a bed (a slightly lighter circle on the ground) and casting about a foot or two past the bed and working your senko until it's directly on it. A male bass will eat an empty beer can if you threw it on the bed so it's the perfect time to practice feeling what a bite feels like because spawning happens up shallow where you can usually see what the bass is doing. 3.) Also I don't know if you are rigging it weightless or not but at this time of year (I fish it weightless primarily, any time of year) it is usually a better set up for me. Without getting too deep into rod action and power, reel, and line you're using in general a 3/0 hook is what I primarily use for rigging senkos. 4.) This one isn't as important during spawn but super important for the rest of the year: Muddy/Murky Water: Dark colors- black and blue, junebug Stained Water: Watermelon with some flake, I like red but it doesn't matter Clear Water: Green Pumpkin, but also works very well in almost all water types, if i could only have one it would be GP. 5.) Feeling the bites. This takes time to get used to but I can give you some tips. First, it sounds obvious but always watch your line, any movement that did not come from you or the wind is something either bumping it or eating it. Sometimes its a *tap tap* other times it's a single tap, and sometimes you don't see a tap at all and your line just starts moving left, right or toward you. In all of those instances set the hook. Hook sets are free and the more you to it the more you'll get a feel for what is and isn't a bite. 6.) Setting the hook is also tough to get used to when fishing the t-rig. Make sure you when you feel a bite point the tip of your rod directly at the fish (or where you think it is) then reel down until you just barely start to feel the weight of the fish and then set the hook in an upward motion. To answer your question the trout balls are Powerbait. The idea is those little neon balls are synthetic dough bait. The original premise of the bait was Powerbait was used to feed the stocked trout while on the fish farm and when they are released anglers would have something that smelled exactly like the food they've eaten their whole lives. Typically people fish it with an egg sinker above a pivot swivel attached to a snell. But I never liked this type of trout fishing. What I would suggest to you is grab a variety pack of micro spinners. Some popular brands are blue fox, rooster tail, and Panther Martin. It's super simple just cast it out and bring it in retrieve. Also it's a great lure for everything that swims. I've caught bluegill, pickerel, largies, sallies, rock bass you name it. I would suggest getting some as something to tie on as a lure that can help you find fish, and once you've located them then switch to the senko. Sorry for the information overload I just remember starting out and how confused I was so I wanted to be thorough. I live in the concord area so if you ever wanted to fish somewhere I am always on the pond and could show you a few spots. Best of luck to ya, hope to hear from you soon tight lines

I'm throwing almost all red craw patterns in the spring. My favorites are the super spot and the Red eye shad. They just produce for me better than any other color pattern in the spring. I adjust how bold and bright the red is based on water clarity. On any given lipless bite I like the sexy shad color for red eye shads, chrome with blue top rattle trap, a natural bluegill pattern, and a fire tiger when the bite is a little off.

I read up on Brett Hite's method of fishing the chatterbait and he says to work it along the top of aquatic vegetation so that it just ticks the top of the grassline. If you get hung up, instead of pumping it out with your rod, try reeling really quickly for 2 or 3 turns. The reason why is you'll get most of your bites when you break your bait lose from cover, similar to the way you rip a lipless and if your rod tip is up at 10 or 11 o clock because you just ripped it from the grass then you won't be able to get a strong enough hook set on the fish and you'll lose fish that way. Without grass he still says keep it close to the bottom and knock it off everything you can like you would a crank bait. If you are running it through open water try to impart some of your own action on the bait, stopping your cadence for a split second, twitching your rod tip ever 5 or 6 rotations of your reel, or speeding up your cadence every 5 or 6 locations. This will cause your bait to change directions similar to the way a baitfish darts away from danger causing generating a reaction strike because the fish thinks your bait is aware of his presence and he's about to lose his meal. I've also had good success working it on the bottom like a jig and doing a simple *pop pop* with the rod and reeling in my slack, similar to the way a crawdad flees when it senses danger. Obviously for this retrieve it's much more effective with a craw trailer. tight lines

So, a lot like most other parts of bass fishing, don't overthink it. Stick a trailer on and forget about it. Like I said in my other reply, use trailers with more action when you think fish are relying on their lateral line (feeling vibration) and dead action trailers when they are using sight. But that being said I've caught fish doing the exact opposite. What you should put a majority of your focus into is how you are presenting your jig, not what it looks like. People Typically use these retrieves Swimming- Chuck and wind almost, usually with a Paddletail on the back, but a craw can also sometimes be effective (craws swim backwards when fleeing predators so it makes more sense than you think). Works great when your bass are feeding on baitfish, or if you are using it as a search bait to locate where they could be. Dragging- I typically reserve this retrieve for my football head jigs but pitching jigs, flipping jigs, even casting jigs can work about as well. I like doing this typically on a sand or mud bottom that will stir up clouds of dirt. These dirt clouds will attract fish and will swim over curios to look at your bait. Hopping- This is probably my most common retrieve, most anglers will work it the same they would a senko which I do like to do, but when the water is warmer (70+) I like to do a double rod twitch upward retrieve sort of like a "hop" "hop" retrieve. I do this to imitate when a crawdad is spooked they will jump straight up off the bottom of the water and then with jet off in two separate motions. hence "hop" "hop" Shaking- This is really typically reserved for flipping and punching techniques. Basically just flip to a hole or a point you think a bass may be, give the rod a *shakeshake* *shakeshakeshake* pause *shake shake* and then reel in and pitch another hole. Simple but effective, just stirring up commotion. Remember to try different levels of aggression with your shakes, and in some cases, no shake at all is very effective. Try out a bunch of things to really work through an area and see what the bass are doing and what they are looking for and adjust accordingly from their. Remember, whether throwing you jigs on a spinnning set up or baitcasting, always keep a finger on the line to feel not only for subtle bites (like the bigger bass will do, one *gulp* as opposed to a *tap tap* on your line) but also to feel the structure on the bottom. Jigs are incredible for just getting a better idea of what's down there and what the fish might be doing. Keep at it and don't get frustrated. You will catch less fish typically on a jig than on a texas rig so just be prepared for that. If you are really struggling downsize your profile. Take an inch off the back of your trailer (i always trim mine so the claws or appendages begin where the skirt ends) or even pick up a finesse jig until you get more comfortable with he feeling of jigs. Tight lines

I always have a jig tied on from pre spawn to ice. I love throwing the jig for my kicker fish, to add some size to my day. Not that i haven't caught 1-2lb fish on a jig, because I absolutely have, but more often than not a fish willing to commit to the jig will be decent size. Theoretically, you use to jig to imitate crawdads, but you can also pair it up with a Paddletail and swim it, or pair it up with a beaver or creature style trailer to imitate just about everything. I found there is a very key detail to jig fishing that i don't hear many talking about, and will help you decide when to use a craw style trailer vs. anything else. Start following the moon cycle and know what phase the moon is in before you go fishing. Crawdads tend to become more active during the fuller moon phases where they can see and look for food at night. If you are trying to start jig fishing, or are just trying to get more bites, this is a more productive time to do it, though they'll work any time. There are tons of shapes and styles of jig heads, but if I had to pick one or two for a beginner it would be the casting jig, or the pitching jig (even if you don't plan on pitching). In my experience these to styles of jig have the most versatility in terms of coming through cover without getting stuck. Also, the finesse jig is a good place to start for beginners because it builds confidence. Typically, when you fish a jig as opposed to a t-rig, you downsize the amount of fish you catch in hopes of upsizing your catch size. But a finesse jig is a happy medium and lighter wire hooks will make for an easier hook set than jacking it with a 5/0 gamakatsu. Colors are simple for me, black blue, watermelon, green pumpkin. That being said I fish a black and blue jig 90% of the time I am jig fishing, but I fish a lot of stained areas. For trailers, don't stress about it too much, it's much less important than say your presentation or your placement, but get a couple with a few appendages and a more aggressive action like the Rage Craw, and a few with a dead action like the Zoom super chunk. As a rule of thumb when you believe the bass are relying more on sight than on feel you should fish a dead action trailer, and when the water is murky and you need them to feel your jig in the water pick something with a lot of action. For me, jigs really shine when they are targeted casts as opposed to being used as a search bait. take some time to learn how to pitch and flip and you will see a significant increase in bites. The vase majority of my biggest bass have been hauled in on a big ole jig and i guaruntee if you start chucking it around you'll stick your PB. Oh and I highly recommend dirty jigs, ALL of my jigging techniques. Thanks to Matt Allen from tactical bassing I converted over to them a couple year's back and they are DIRTY. Tungsten jig heads, Gamakatsu hooks, 3 layer skirt paint job and they paint the jig head to match it. I fish them EXCLUSIVELY now and refuse to tie on another jig.But that being said I got my start with the 2 dollar eagle claw jigs from walmart and I still stuck 4's and 5's on them so it doesn't super matter. tight lines

Hey everyone I was just wondering if anyone has thrown a green pumpkin shad color skirt color chatterbait at all? and if so what trailer did you throw on it and what type of forage is that imitating? I was thinking baby bass but idk..