FLAGATOR49

Great concept on their hooks and i'm glad they brought it to market, but I tried the Tokyo Rig and their hooks just don't seem sharp to me. - Gamakatsu superline, the knot doesn't slip through the gap just to wrong side with the crimp/indentation. Which I can only assume damages your knot, a drop of superglue has greatly reduced the knot sliding. - I tested with several knots on a fresh black nickel hook and the palomar does slide less than knots that are more popular for flurocarbon like the san diego jam, doubled uni, and shark/shaw grigsby knot. Maybe its because I'm using 20lb leader material, lighter line seems to slide less.

You should tie a knot with flurocarbon on a modern hook and try it out. I highly doubt your knot has absolutely no slide to it. Then drag some fluro on that gap and watch it fray. You've never broke off a fish in 60 years??? Impressive..

Used some super glue on my knot this morning and it kept the knot in place much better, but it did slide eventually. Tried soldering afterwards and was not able to close the gap between the hook eye, but it did work to fill in the little crimped area.

I do have sealed eye flipping hooks but this is for senkos/flukes. Seems like the knot sliding is most prevalent on weightless plastics and ill use the belly weighted superline w/ the flukes sometimes. Nothing lead tape cant solve on a lighter wire flipping hook though...and both plastics don't really need the EWG bend

Gamakatsu Superline 5/0 for weightless plastics simple enough I'll have to give that a shot! Thank You Would the biggest danger be weakening the eye through the heating process or the sharp edges that can be created? Super glue would prevent the knot from sliding, you prefer the gel type over standard super glue? I feel like the gel wears off unless you let it dry for a long time. Its not with braid unfortunately, either mono or fluro what kind of superglue do you suggest?

What kind of epoxy are you using? I heard John Crews talk about this method...seems much safer than solder lol

Dobyns Sierra/Champion 704 SF is great for 5" senkos T-rigged weightless. Typically use it with 30lb braid to a 16lb leader

you have any tips? I have a kit on the way from Amazon. So many different fluxes and soder/rosin types to choose from cool idea I haven't heard that one before Thanks!!

Does anyone have experience sealing the eye of their hook? I know some brands offer this out of the package but searching for a method to do this for hooks that aren't sealed. Soldering, Welding, or JB Weld if you have any advice I would greatly appreciate it!

Yes they work a booyah 3/8oz Willow/Colorado tandem in golden shiner is very popular in FL.

Probably best to go with the Abu, 10lb mono should cast fine I would bump it up a little for your casting equipment to avoid break offs. I started on 15lb Berkley big game which you can find at Walmart and it's cheap. Lighter line should cast further so im not sure the line change will help you with distance.

It could be that your reel sucks, but less brakes and tighter spool tension. You will always be able throw further with heavier lures than lighter lures...that will never change. Your line choice could be limiting your casting distance as well.

Your spool tension could be too loose, the lure should barely drop when you engage the thumb bar to let line out. Hold your rod straight out when you do this, too tight is better than too loose when it comes to back lashing. Your spool tension needs to be adjusted for each different lure tied on. If you go from a lipless to a weightless plastic your tension will be way too loose for the plastic.

Total lure weight is exactly it, a senko + 1/4oz weight + hook and your near maxing out. It depends on the plastic, hook and weight being used. Every 7' MH is not the same, some rods can handle being maxed out and others cant. Heck try 3/8oz and see if it works. Personally, my MH's are for weightless plastics 1/16oz max, and non-braid swim jigs.

With a 7' MH you might want to stay away from mats. Use 50lb braid and cast around the outside edges of mats, or a small opening in the mat could work for your setup with a 1/4oz. You typically need a heavier weight for that technique, that would probably over power your rod. The 1/4oz may not work if they are thick mats, and im guessing that would be the heaviest weight you could throw on a 7' MH. A frog on top of the mats is another option. Cranks and jerks around the outside of mats may work, same with the senko/fluke. Pause a fluke or jerkbait right around the edges to draw them out.

Look for some drains and culverts with flowing water from all this rain. There should be some moving flood water somewhere nearby in the canals, check on google earth. Also shade is another good thing to look for when the flowing water is done and the sun is back out.

Maybe a lipless crankbait, swim jig, or topwater for your casting setup. You may want to stick with snagless stuff from the bank so you can get your baits back like a buzzbait or spinnerbait. The senko and fluke will be great with your spinning gear.

Senko's and flukes is what I started fishing with in Florida and I still use them today. Junebug and Watermelon Red are good colors for both. Reaction innovations skinny dipper is another good choice and all can be used on the same rod/reel with a 5/0 hook. I have never fished the canals in south florida...do you have lots of cover around and what kind of equipment?

I would keep those fish moving forward, the invasive species are a huge problem all throughout Florida. The south Florida canals may have the worst invasive species problem. Here's an article for reference: https://fishingbooker.com/blog/invasive-fish-in-florida-all-you-need-to-know/

Keep your spools full for max casting distance and to pick up more line. I fill high capacity spools about 1/4 - 1/3 full of backing, cheap 6lb mono from Walmart.

Dobyns 705CB or 764CB with straight 50lb Braid

Mono will be better for a leader than FC sniper, they Use Ultragreen (Co-Polymer). From my experiences with braid to leader you'll need a touch of drag, frequent re-tying, and to adjust your hookset. Straight braid in heavy vegetation still and use a heavier leader than you think you need. Check your leader for signs of wear, in specific when the line gets cloudy your line should be clear.

The Dobyns 734C is what I use for spinnerbaits - chatterbaits with fluro and my favorite multi-purpose rod from Dobyns. It's a little too heavy for cranking, but great for swim jigs, T-Rigs, and senkos. The 735CB Glass as others have mentioned was designed for chatterbaits and will suit your cranking needs better. Dobyns employee's recommended the 734C as their best spinnerbait rod over the phone.

Well a big fish can spool you, so you need braid down to the bottom of the spool. Electric tape wrap the spool first, then tie your knot to that, and use a strong knot like a uni to the spool.

x2 on cheap mono from Walmart as braid backing. Saltwater is a different story with long runs, but for Bass use light mono (I use 6lb). The braid will cut more into a heavier mono backing and you'll save $$ and use less braid. Unless, you have a shallow spool reel it wont help as much but I like high capacity reels.