GetFishorDieTryin

Definitely don't need 3 rods. A 6'10 M will do JB/topwater, weightless and light jigs really well.

Its the very end of the leader and knot that takes a beating when using a SH. That's where I think spending a few extra $$$ for a good leader material is worth it, especially when you get under 8lb test. I like 10lb braid on spinning gear for just about everything. I used to use 15/20 and when I went to 10lb the extra casting distance I gained was immediately apparent, particularly going from 15lb 832 to 10 Smackdown or X9. The initial fall or glide is really important with a SH. Obviously the leader being used is a huge factor in how the bait falls, but the mainline plays a role as well. I think I get better action on the fall with a thinner mainline. I have used 15lb X9 for finesse fishing and SHs and it did really well. I'm not convinced that 15lb X9 is as thin as they claim it is. It still has excellent casting distance, fishes like a 10lb PE. So if your unsure about going with a 10lb mainline consider 15lb X9.

I use a 7"1 Med Fast Muse for smaller/ shallow cranks, JBs, lipless and it does really well. The action and power make it an incredibly versatile rod. The Omen Blacks use the same blanks so the action should be really close.

I like both styles of weights. I usually use nail weights for grassy/muddy bottoms and mushroom weights for harder/rocky bottoms. The exposed weights make noise when they come into contact with rocks or wood. The exposed weight allows you to feel the bottom a little better as well when compared to a nail weight that's completely covered in plastic. You can leave a small portion of the nail weight exposed if you want to feel the bottom for transitions. Cutting up shakey heads can get expensive. See if you don't have any little screws laying around the house. They work pretty good.

You can put anything on a Rugby Head. Used to use them mostly for creature baits and slowly got away from them. I still use the 1/16 early in the year for bigger profile worms and they work well.

Slow suspend baits rate of rise can vary because of water temperature but a slow sink bait should always sink, especially if it costs $15. I would think even in the coldest water it still wouldn't be able to achieve neutral bouyancy. To get the bait to sink you have a few options. You can put heavier terminal components on the bait, like heavier hooks and or split rings. Suspends strips/dots or wire are probably the easiest way to go. The last option of course is to just buy a Shadow Rap.

check out Reins Kito Kito

I like a #1 for thinner 3" baits like Easy Shiners and 1/0 for larger profile baits like Swing Fats. Hayabusas Brush Easy in 1 or 1/0 is a great head. If your just using it for swimming Owners Ultrahead Darter works really well with light tackle. These are really nice, but there designed for small crappie baits with a #4 hook.

I used to use Rapala Knots without issues.

I fish all winter. If the lakes freeze, I fish spillways and streams. If the banks of the streams and spillways ice up too much, I fish tidal water.

Med Light power Fast Action 1 Piece They make a 2pc model in that rod as well. I recommend the 1pc if its possible.

The 13 6'7 ML F Defy Black feels really good for $60. 13 is really good about replacing broken rods too. Even if you shut it your car door they will replace it, you just have to pay shipping.

Thats my ned rod as well. Its not as light and I may be a hair less sensitive then the 6'10 Victory, but the action, feel and balance of the Tatula just makes it close to the perfect all around finesse rod.

SC would be my choice 4sure. Rev 2500 for FC or Mono and Rev 2000 or 2500 for braid to leader. I like 8 or 10lb braid overall, but I could mono helping with keeping the hook pinned. For the money X9 is great. I don't think its as thin as they claim it to be, but its still thin casts/handles great and isn't crazy expensive. 1/32-1/16 heads with a smaller hook will help out with grass and snags tremendously. A head I really like is Hayabusas Brush Easy (#1 hook) and Baby Shooting Ball both in 1/20. As long as the bait is neutrally buoyant it will stand up well with those heads. Don't limit yourself to ned baits either. 4' Bubbling shakers, cut down Airtail Rattlers and Robo worms do really well for me.

Really? Im either going to get an Essence or Invoker LE on BF. How's the action on the 7ish' MH F 40t blanks?

As long as you keep the rod tip up and the line isnt really thin you can run the Ima Bill Lowen CB fast enough to deflect really well and it wont go much deeper then 18 inches. When you want to clip the bottom you just hold the tip down and crank hard when you want make contact.

You have to keep in context with ML rods. I have 9 ML spinning rods from 6'8-7'6, by SC Daiwa, Loomis, Shimano, 13 and SC. All with similar weight ratings and the Victory has the fastes action out of all of them. It makes a 7'1 ML F Tatula feel like a noodle.

The 6'10 ML Vic is not a soft rod as far as MLs go. It feels a little more powerful then the Avid and Mojo ML F/XF not only because its a shorter rod, but the action is noticeably faster. Honestly I prefer a softer tip for ned rigs, especially when I'm using really light wire hooks. Unless the drag is set perfect every time that fish surges it causes that hook hold to tear because the rod recovers so fast. I'm sure the longer ML XFs that are coming out soon would have a longer tip section. What it comes down to is the weight of the baits your throwing. I would imagine if you got away with a 7' ML F the Vic would so fine, is just a shorter faster rod. If you want to increase the power considerably from the ML F then a M is probably the way to go.

The blade is made up of carbon fibers which are like a matte black, so it will always be dark. I use black nail polish or a sharpie to color in nickel or gold blades 95% of the time. The only time I want that flash is when the fish are actively chasing shad or shiners. The Picasso bladed jigs have a bigger profile then most others. The gap isn't particularly big, but the shanks are really long.

They go on sale at TW for BF. The price wont reflect the discount upon ordering it. You will see the discount when you get your order conformation email.

Ive used the shock blades, tungsten knockers and just got a couple of the new carbon fiber SB pros. The way Picasso attaches the blade to the head the blade actually cant articulate towards the hook at more then a 45* angle. That makes the blade act somewhat as a guard itself. I don't seem to snag them as much as the Zmans. I think its because the blade doesn't have the freedom of the Zmans so it wont roll the hook into wood as easily. I do use Picassos jigs and really do like the design of the weedguard. Its effective for grass and thinner branches, but doesn't get in the way of the hookset at all. I wouldn't recommend throwing a guarded SB into wood, unless you are willing to snag or lose the bait. The SBs run different then the Zmans. The blade thumps hard, but not as fast due to the heavier weight. The shape of the head combine with the slower blade speed keeps the bait down. One thing you will notice with the standard SBs the clip that connects the head to the blade really chews up the head around the connection point. I don't think it makes a big difference when it comes to catching fish, but it is noticeable. The Pro series baits have a different shape to the top of the head so they dont get beat up nearly as bad as the standard SBs. I really like the new carbon fiber SB pros. The blade is super light so you get a really fast blade speed. The angular shape of the blade gives the bait a more aggressive swimming action then the rounded blades which I like in most cases. They have a tendency to want to rise a little more in the water column because of that much faster blade. The shape of that head comes through grass well but what I really like about it is it bounces off cover really well. Honestly if they were cheaper like 10 or 12$ I wouldn't buy Zmans anymore. Hope this helps.

Always loved the 5 3/4" kut tail, the size and weight made it really versatile. All but stopped using them when the 5 3/4 became less common.

More then likely its just due to the rod being stiff and not the reel. Never handled an Aird, but I have messed around with the MH Tatula XT MH F and it was a pool cue.

I have the 7' MH/F SLX and the sensitivity is the only part of the rod I like. It not a super heavy rod, but the problem is the balance. Its extremely tip heavy so anytime you want to fish with the tip up you feel the entire weight of the rod even with an 8oz reel. Its a very stiff rod as well, which helps with the sensitivity but makes casting any kind of distance labored and difficult. If you do wind up getting the 7' MH SLX and have issues with balance order a Fuji rod butt that will fit it. It would make a world of difference.

A lot of people don't have the option or means to rinse their gear immediately after they're done. It really only takes but a few minutes for the salt to begin to crystalize, like during the ride home or back to the dock even. There's no question that WD 40 inhibits corrosion and lubricates because it clearly does and if it worked for you that's good. I'm just not to keen on the solvents and penetrating oils in it. Whether it can adverse effect on the oil/grease and hydrophobic coatings I don't know, but I don't see the need to take the chance. As long as you rinse the reel correctly and let it dry, grease and a light coating of oil will do.