Conclusion

I just double checked and it's actually a 3/0 worm hook not the 2/0, not that I imagine that makes a huge difference. Sounds like I'll be dual purposing my wacky rod for weightless texas rigs as well, as my other two spinning rods are ML/F (shakey head) and ML/XF (ned rig).

Thanks for the replies, didn't realize I could step down to a spinning rod for texas rig, would a medium fast spinning rod work okay or should I go down to medium light? I was worried about medium with the hookset...

I've always used the texas rig weighted and was in shallow water this weekend so decided to try weightless. I was using a berkley tequila sunrise 7" ribbon tail worm and I could barely get the cast past 10-15 feet max. I'm using the 6'10" tatula MH casting rod with a tatula ct and 15# big game on a 2/0 worm hook. Is it the gear or what am I doing wrong, how do people fish these without dropping to really light gear?

Thanks for all he replies, trimming the legs made a huge difference. Although not perfect my technique is working much better than it was before. Most of the time I can get it to walk and I think at this point practice will likely fix the difference.

Will certainty try trimming the legs thank you. Regarding the reel I feel like I've been doing more like 1/3 or 1/4 reel turns, am I not reeling enough? Using a tatula 150 HSL (7.3) reel as I know each reel will have different speeds.

Whether true or not I keep hearing comments in videos about increased catches from using this 'proper' technique. Also on a personal level it's annoying AF to not be able to figure it out lol.

Okay I will definitely try pointing right at the frog next time I get a chance. I'm using a full size pad crasher which I've heard is one of the easier ones to walk. I haven't trimmed the legs, didn't realize that would make such a difference. I'll try trimming to the length of the body or a bit shorter and see if that makes any difference as well. Thanks!

For the life of me I cannot get the frog to walk. Once in a while I can get maybe 2 or 3 correct motions and then it continues to purpoise. I've watched countless videos on youtube, I'm following the 'twitch, reel, slack' back and forth method. I've tried giving extra slack, less slack and I just can't figure it out. I can walk a spook no problem. I'm using a the tatula 7'4" heavy frog rod with 50#pp. I've been doing this sideways, is there any chance that's my issue and I should be doing it straight up and 'twiching' up and down instead of left to right?

Yes this is exactly how they said they'd fix it. I have the helix 7 si g2n, I believe the transducer model is XNT 9 SI 180 T.

Thank you for the piece of mind!

Good to know on the install of a new transducer. I've just heard with newer models they're getting bigger and assumed it meant larger brackets. Stupid question for anyone who might know, can they use the two holes they've already drilled as the holes for the plate? I know they wouldn't be as far apart but wondering if it's feasible.

It's aluminum. I agree in principle it's ridiculous and I'm keen to argue further but I don't know if more seasoned boat owners would consider this a non issue and just deal as I understand it's not uncommon to change transducers many times over a boats life without using mounting plates. I don't want to come across as a Karen at the marina basically.

So I purchased my first boat and dropped it off at a local marina to have it winterized and a fish finder installed. I explicitly stated I wanted the transducer installed on a transducer plate, not put directly on to the hull. Turns out they did what I told them not to, some excuse of poor communication between them. They're knocking half the price off the charges because of it. I didn't want it installed right on the transom because I don't want a bunch of holes. They're going to remove it and install the plate for free and install the plate over the holes they put in for the transducer. As this is my first boat, am I just being OCD in worrying about it or should I be as ticked and concerned as I am? Appreciate any advice, thanks.

I mentioned in a previous post that this continued after I cut half the line off, so not from over spooling. I have the piscifun spooling device so I had enough tension and I made sure the line was coming off correctly so none of those.

@PUTitinYOURmouthFISH Thanks for the reply that's a really interesting thought that I hadn't considered. The setup we use is unofficially called the "Quebec Rig" and consists of a sinker then about 3 feet down a swivel connected to a Toronto wobbler followed by another 2 feet of line with a size 4 hook and a worm on it. The sinkers we use are typically 1oz so all told it's a heavier rig for sure. We've done this before with 10# line so it must be the xl is too soft, any recommendations for a stiffer line without going larger?

Not to further hijack the thread but here is a pic of the line twist I was dealing with. I was also using 10# xl but we've always used 10# line so wondering if it's the xl. I tried the pinch technique and it was a mess so I ended up cutting half the spool off. It continued on the second half of the spool so I know it wasn't due to the spool being over filled. Again this was trolling and not casting.

Just wanted to chime in that this isn't just caused by closing the bail with the handle instead of your hand. I had this happen to me last month on a week of trout fishing and I was trolling the whole time. I only use my hand to close the bail and this was consistent happening. I thought it had something to do with my setup and the swivel not keeping up to the rotation of the Toronto wobbler spoon flip. I'm still struggling to find the cause, my grandfather had been fishing for decades and never had this problem, unfortunately he passed a few years ago and my dad and I can't figure out what he was doing differently. He was definitely not conditioning the line or doing anything fancy when spolling it.

I've got 2 2500 and a 3000 BG reels and I'd recommend them to anyone. My father also has a bg 3000 and has had no issues and also loves it.

Thanks for all the replies and ideas, definitely feel more confident about launching without a dock.

Perfect thanks again. Seems like I'm going to need to invest in some waders and a pole. Lol ouch I can't imagine that would be a fun experience, particularly in the cold water.

Thanks for all the replies, this is great information and makes me feel better. @A-Jay great video, I've watched your solo launch one before and also really helpful. Stupid question, when you've parked the truck and head back to the boat are you literally just climbing over the wide to get back in to it?

Thank for the reply. It's not a new boat, 2016, but still new to me and my first so I plan to treat it like it's new. So the sand won't damage the keel at all? I'll definitely avoid rocks and gravel for sure. If I can, I'll get a keel guard put on in the offseason. I've made a checklist and I'm very aware of the launch etiquette and will do my best to ensure I'm as quick as possible without feeling like I'm rushing and missing something.

I finally purchased my first boat, an alumacraft escape 165cs and I'm really excited to get it on the water. I've watched videos of solo launches with docks and that seems easy enough but there are quite a few places near me that don't have docks at the launch. How can I solo launch without beaching the boat, I'm concerned this will destroy the keel? Apologies if I'm missing something but I'm new to this. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks for the responses. My plan is definitely to try and find a quiet ramp and take my time. I will have someone with me as well. I'll back the load guides off a bit to give a little play. I've used boats before but from rental cottages, so the loading/unloading is new to me.

It's my first boat ever so I have no loading ability lol. I'd appreciate any further insight.