TheWitness33

I’ve used hot sauce and the new lews stuff. And cals for drag grease.

My Daiwa Zillion TW 100HL and for BFS my Daiwa 24 PX BF 70. I upgraded my Zillion with 5 more bearings than stock and a carbontex drag stack. My PX is stock.

I bought the Major Craft Benkei 6'7" light. Daiwa 24 PX BF 70 and Sufix 832 8lb.

I agree. When people are first learning (and i want to fish more than fix a reel) i teach them how to use the spool tension knob and add or remove weights. Myself, i keep the tension so there's VERY little play, enough that i know there's no extra friction and weights all the way off. I have the zero adjust in my 24 PX BF 70 and i ended up adjusting it to my liking. It's only zero adjust for someone who doesn't care to have a preference.

Caught 5 fish on the new finesse setup with an inline spinner only. Very fun! Great rod and the reel casts lures I’d cast on spinning gear effortlessly. Probably my new favorite setup.

I have a 2014 Zillion and just keep the spool tension so that the spool has one click of play (when the spool has no play, one click on the tension knob gives it a slight bit of play) and keep the brakes at zero. From the time i learned BC's there was always an adjustment knob. I don't think i'd like one where they decide where it is.

Nope, it's always been a habit of mine to back them off all the way. But besides knowing that the CF drag washers are better in every way possible, greased or dry, i don't know the longevity with the drag engaged. Locking down the drag has never been something i've done. They're meant to be a "clutch" not a brake.

I’m more so wondering if the thinner braid (half the thickness of the mono) makes it a better contender.

I picked up some sufix 832 in 8lb (3lb equiv) and sufix elite hi viz in 6lb. The 832 is obviously way thinner but which is less “visible”? I’ve seen the back and forth in articles and I’m curious your take before I spool up.

I have a 2014 zillion which I threw in carbontex drag washers when it was new (I don’t remember if the stock ones were CF, it was just a habit I got into swapping drag washers out for CF). I just bought a 2024 PX BF 70. Daiwa states “advanced carbon washers” which I assume are CF washers. I remember reading somewhere the CF washers aren’t prone to being flattened by leaving the drag on. So… I’m coming to ask if anybody has experienced drag “fade” from leaving their daiwa CF drags on? I leave my rods/reels in my car so I can stop off whenever and as habit leave my drags loose which causes the rods to eventually cross up and tangle lines. If I could keep them taught it would lessen or eliminate they. But I don’t want to at the cost of my drag stack.

Yes, the top plate (I assume there’s a plate that goes over that) retains the spring inside that cavity. As you reel with it off, the pinion and drive gear both want to move up which pushes the ARB bushing and ARB up.

All spinning reels have the same basic setup. Once you've worked on one, you've worked on them all (with SOME exceptions). That spring is for your anti reverse. I made a red representation (lol) of the spring where it should go. Place it on the little nub of the anti reverse (white piece) bearing housing and then try to compress and slide it in on the other side with a small pick or flathead.

Well, I ordered: -Daiwa 24 PX BF 70 -Major craft Benkai 6’7” light/fast rod -Sufix 832 8# (subject to change after I fish it, I may go with mono, I can put the 8# on a spinning setup I have) after much back and forth with the rod. Watching videos, reading reviews and looking at specs the rod I chose is as close to the dobyns while being $60 less which will allow me some BFS tackle. Plus, it looks nice (though function over form for me). Hopefully I like this setup. I’m excited but nervous as well, I don’t normally drop $550 on a setup I’m unsure of.

In the past, running small diameter braid on a BC has left me with dug in line and snapped lines. I’m looking to move into BFS and am wondering what the lightest braid I should go with is. I’ll be using a light rod. I’d like 8 or 10lb Berkeley x9 but I’m thinking that’ll dig in.

Leaves about 180-190 for a rod. But I’d like to keep it as low as possible lol. The line will be suffix 832 in either 8, 10 or 15lb depending on what’s recommended. The reel takes “6lb @ 50 yards

$350

I have literally checked out all of those. Wondering if a shorter length isn’t better for BFS? I normally fish with a 6’6” medium or medium heavy fast action casting rod so light gear or ultra light or even medium light is all new to me in casting. I’ve owned those in spinning. It seems 6’5” and up is what’s offered in light, ultra light and medium light.

Hey guys, i'm thinking a setup like this would be really gun with Rapala jerk baits, senko (maybe?), inline spinners, crappie jigs and small crank baits. I'm unsure of rod power/action. Would a light/fast be OK for these applications? 8lb braid? I'm looking on tackletour unless you know of another retailer that will have what i'd want/what is recommended in one place? I'm trying to keep the purchase of line, rod and reel under $550. Thanks!

What attracted me to this idea was having to use spinning gear to cast light jigs and such for trout and crappie. Not that i HAVE to but I can't really load a rod i own on something that light and have it go the distance. I can cast weights off and spool tension off but the rod doesn't do the work it needs to. I fish from shore and sometimes need to get out 20-30 feet. The daiwa i'm looking at says 50ft of 6lb fluoro so i'm not quite sure where that leaves me as id spool with 10-15lb braid, unless i can go lighter? Last time i used light line on a BC it dug in too much. I normally carry a light spinning rod and a medium-medium heavy casting rod.

Decent sized for trout? Panfish? I always said if a small baitcaster ever came out i'd drop my spinning reels. I can cast light lures with my BC's i have now but they are in now way effecient. I currently have a 1000 size reel i use for anything other than senko/baits that need back bone for bass/panfish/trout and my daiwa zillion and shimano chronarch are my main bass setups.

As you take the parts off, put them in a line in order of removal. When you're ready to put it back together, the last part off is the first part in. Orient things also in the way you're taking them off (if you have a screw left, top and bottom on a side cover, orient them that way if they're different lengths). I find baitcasters more fun than spinning reels. Keep stacked parts stacked if you can as assemblies. And do it all in one sitting!

No biggie lol. I wish I measured them when they were out but it was getting late and I wanted to get it back together. They’re not in dire need of replacement but it will be soon. I figured if I’m going to be in it I mays we’ll replace them all at once. I tried boca bearings but they haven’t gotten back to me since I inquired two weeks ago.ill check out the other two!

I already have the bearings for the handle and the worm shaft. I ordered them direct from daiwa shortly after i bought the reel. I'm looking to replace them and the rest. I'm looking for a ceramic upgrade kit or a higher end bearing than factory so i can tear the reel down (again) and redo them all.

Hey guys. Looking up part numbers from a schematic for this reel is a headache. Does anybody know the sizes of the bearings in this reel and or a company that sells a complete set? When i got the reel i replaced the four bushings in the handle paddles (2 paddles x 2 bearings) and one bearing on the worm shaft (the paddles and worm shaft had bushings). Those bearings are all the same size. So technically my reel is a 15 +1 ARB which i'd like to replace that as well. I just serviced it the other day and noticed some corrosion on one of the bearings so if it gets worse, i'd like to have a set to replace. Either ceramic or a "better than" quality set of stainless as to what came in it.

My bad. Looking in better light I see the notches. Problem solved. Thank you! The older zillion notches were deeper!