RipHair

Posted a few other threads but managed to find this Renegade specific thread. Thinking of getting an 1875 or 1975 and have a few questions for Renegade owners: 1. Does it come with the sport track so you can attach accessories to the gunwale? I.e, I'd love to attach some trolling rod holders but unsure if they have them or are compatible. 2. If you have a Minn Kota 4 bank charger I assume this is just for wall plugin to charge up to 4 batteries? Is it already the case or is it possible to charge say 3 trolling motor batteries via the alternator or does it only charge the starting battery? 3. Are you running your electronics off the starter or TM batteries? 4. Would a 9" screen like the Garmin sv93 fit well in the console and behind the window or would a 10" be a bit better? Not looking for a hulk (and expensive) unit but just something that'll do for side imaging and garmin navionics maps. 5. Is there a mounting plate by default for a transom transducer? How about mounting plates at the console or bow for electronics via RAM mounts?

I found this chart which is helpful in determining unit compatibility. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. https://www8.garmin.com/navionics/PDF/GPS_Plotter_Cards_Compatibility_Guide.pdf

Interesting to hear they have a lakemaster version. Was also considering mounting a waterproof tablet like Samsung active just for navionics+ Android app as well

Building new boat and fishing around Muskokas and Kawarthas and a couple of places online that mention Navionics has far more detail for lakes like Buckhorn, Pigeon, Stoney. I plan on putting a Minn Kota Ultrex Quest on and heard it's best to pair with Humminbird but now with Navionics being Garmin I'm a bit lost with what setup I should go for now... Does navionics work with a humminbird and if so will I be losing a lot of functionality?

Thanks each have 90HP and 150HP respectively so they are maxed.

Just curious if there are any folks that can help advise on best fit for a new boat and build. I fish mostly Ontario around the Canadian shield so lots of rocks and not super big open water bodies, i.e, I don't fish the great lakes or Lake Ontario but lakes like in the Muskokas and Kawarthas, Stoney Lake being one of them. I'm a bit split between the 1775 and 1975 mainly because I prefer a smaller boat to get into smaller bays, more gas efficient, lighter trailer load and a bit cheaper storage and maybe more chance it'll fit in any future garage I get - although folks up there said common garage sizes are 24'x24'. Reasons for a 1875 or 1975 would be the jump seats so I can have family in there the odd boat ride (this is my only boat) and also when fishing 3 adults or 3 adults + 1 kid is more room and of course better seating when under way. I also feel the 1975 will handle rougher water better when I'm walleye/pickerel fishing in the larger open areas. The dealer said people do seat the 3rd and 4th in the pedestal seats but I can't fathom how that can be even remotely safe if ripping across the lake at 30-50mph... I'm coming from 14' jon boats with 8hp so obviously whichever boat is gonna be an upgrade but it's also not something I wanna spend on them find out I wanna upgrade it 3 years down the road cuz I wish I got the smaller or larger version. My fishing is generally 30% solo, 40% 2 adults and 30% 3-4 adults.

I think I'm leaning towards the Renegade at this point. I had initially thought the Pro-V Bass but I won't be fishing in super rough or big waters like Lake Ontario, Champlain or the Great lakes. I also prefer the option to get into shallower areas which is where I generally find myself in my 14'. Interesting about the pairing and it's a bit unfortunate that we don't have better open standards and interoperability... Maybe I'm best off just getting a basic trolling motor if it's the ghost that is already installed or basic Terrova that can do most of what I need by themselves with their built-in GPS then wait until winter to do more research on a final setup.

For background, I'm coming from a 14' aluminum with a 20HP and Garmin Striker 4 fish finder. I never really learned how to use the fish finder properly and I doubt it's ever helped me catch SM or walleyes in the 20-30 hours of use. For trolling motor I have a 12V 20lb minn kota from the 90s. I'm looking at a Lund Pro-V Bass or Renegade likely in 19 or 20' and at minimum I need a trolling motor. Looking at bow mounts for 80lb 24V 60" I see Minn Kota Terrova, Ultrex or Ulterra. Terrova has the most reviews and looks to be the most popular but there are now brushless options which are apparently much more quiet but they also cost almost double for Minn Kota. It looks like the Ghost is brushless but I've read about some negative reviews and near 0 customer support. I don't think I need all the features of the Ulterra, I don't mind manually deploy the TM. Terrova looks like a good bet but it's not brushless. I basically want an easy to use pedal, spot lock/anchor and setting a course would be cool but not needed to start with. One boat I'm looking at actually comes with a Lowrance Ghost + Elite FS9 already installed and while that solves a few issues of me going out and buying it and installing it I'm not really sure if that combo is what I want down the line? I suppose I can ask them if they can price the boat without the TM and/or electronics. Would be curious to hear of people's thoughts on electronics and TM's - specifically TM as that's what I need day 1 when I start fishing. EDIT: Also I'm a bit worried about lock-in, i.e, if for example the Minn Kota i-pilot integration with FF's limits me to Humminbird in order to set a course to troll along a short from the FF map then that would not be ideal...

Thanks - I do have an Aldebaran BFS for my BFS rod, sounds like I will use the MGL for the lighter stuff. TBH I'm not a huge fan of the DC noise...

I have both MGL and Scorpion DC and from what I can see they're pretty much the same specs. I think MGL has slightly higher braking power but is like 20% lighter. One rod will be fitted with 20lb braid and another 12lb FC. 12lb FC will be for wacky, texas rigs, etc.. and the 20lb braid for crankbaits, spinners, etc.. Question is, is the DC best for the lighter application to help with wind or does it really matter? Unsure which to use for which and I don't plan on buying a new reel either.

Yeah it seems it's that - I just wish it was made clear or communicated by either Batson when I called to inquire or by my distributor but I take responsibility as the weight rating probably should have been a red flag to me. I'm going to try to return all 3 of these and I'm just gonna go to the EXPO in Feb to get a feel in person for the blanks I want. I think for 3pc travel rods my only real other options here are NFC and CTS Air but they're expensive and I prefer to not have any more surprises.

Just curious if anyone has compared the RX6 vs RX7 material and have any opinion? I just ordered a few 7'2 RX7 travel rods that are spec'd similarly except in weight to some RX6's I have. Comparing both side by side, my personal feeling is that the RX6 feels way lighter, more crisp, more premium and just better overall. It's a bit curious because I was told the RX7 "is almost the same but with higher modulus compared to the RX6" but my impression is that they are very different. Since I only build travel rods, I don't have much experience with other blanks other than MHX, Batson and American Tackle. I attached spec sheets for 2 such blanks. Sadly Batson doesn't provide CCS figures so I had to take a chance in ordering it and I don't know how I can safely measure CCS numbers on them without a glued tiptop or invalidating any chance of exchange.

Same here, most of my rods are 7'0 and I would even say my musky rods aren't even very powerful. I wonder now if it's even worth building a 9'4 rod for ocean surf fishing using a regular bass reel.

I do some shore fishing every once in a while and I generally throw up to 1oz blades or jigs for Snook, Redfish, etc.. I'm currently using my SB843-3 MH 7'0 rod with a dying Abu Revo STX reel with 20lb test power pro braid. I plan on building this rod https://batsonenterprises.com/rainshadow-rod-blanks/revelation-rx7-4-piece-multipurpose-travel-revelation-rx7-4-piece-multipurpose-travel to do a bit better with my surf fishing and also maybe consider using it for musky and pike on lakes if it makes sense. All of my reels are basically Shimano Curado DC/Scorpion except for this Abu. Just curious if I can get away with running another Curado DC or similar (actually I don't like the DC sound, I guess the M or K is the one I should consider?). Some people like the Tranx and that might be worth considering for this particular build but curious to hear y'alls recommendation here!

Thanks the store had the VMC drop shot hooks and I picked up a pack. I didn't know these existed and totally make sense. I guess I was trying to use my hammock line tying knots to rig something up but in the end it's indeed simpler to buy specialized hardware for the job. I also got some strong plastics that I can indeed hook though the mouth like you would a minnow. Will give this a go for the next few days and hopefully get some big smallies and walleye.

I only started drop shot fishing where you tie a palomar to the hook from main line then that sinching drop shot weight below it last year but I don't think I had any luck. I was curious if it was the palomar to hook cuz it seems a bit close to the main line and unsure if the bait is really doing its justice rigged that way. I'm on Day 7 of 12 of straight fishing and I think I'll make it a point of trying drop shop mainly tomorrow whether for smallies or walleye. Been having lots of luck on everything and will be a good opportunity to learn this technique.

Sorry for the delay to reply, have been out fishing the past few days day and night with limited connectivity. Apologies if my post created confusion - I won't be going the multiple hook route as it'll probably just get tangled and I don't really want to pour in the time to research if it's legal in this province or not. The comment about it being illegal to have weights below the hook got my attention though and I'll need to double check that here for Ontario. I only use braid on my frog stick, rest is FC. Some great replies on rigs that I'll be using to make some more drop shot rigs (leaders if you want to call it that) and indeed this is for walleye which are a bit toothy compared to bass. My initial post was to see if I could build such a rig using just leader line without any extra hardware (especially hw I don't have on hand).

I find they have the best prices on plastics and I've ordered a ton from them the past few years. I generally load up my cart there first then only fallback to TWH for anything Midway doesn't carry.

I generally use a palomar knot to hook 2-3' up my line then use one of those dropshot weights that attach to the end of the line. The problem I have with this is when I switch this out from pickerel fishing or drop shotting I'm losing 2-3' of line. My main line is 6-12lb FC and I have a spool of 20lb FC sitting around so I thought about making a rig: Cut off 3-4' of it, tie a bowline to make a loop at one end (not sure how a bowline will hold up on fishing line). Then for tying the hook, I could do a palomar knot again but was curious if maybe having the hook come off the main line a bit more would give it more action and better hookups. My idea is to tie an alpine butterfly knot at one or 2 spots in this rig which I could then tie on hooks with 6"-12" line segments so they trail off the main line. I'm fairly new to this type of rigging so apologies if I'm way off the mark here. Quite interested in hearing what you folks think might work best without eating up my main line. I plan to use this for walleye and bass fishing with keitech, small worms hanging off it.

Just measured an IP of 1143g, ERN of 32.1 and AA of 68.1. I don't think I will build this rod.

American Tackle N AT844-3 100 933.4 60 28.18 rodbuilders.org has the above measurements, 933.4 IP, 60AA and 28.18 ERN. They also for some reason list 100" which is incorrect for a 7' rod. I ordered this rod since the AT843-3 was out of stock pretty much everywhere including the Rainshadow equivalent. I'm worried it may be a bit too heavy for throwing 1/4oz-1/2oz stuff like mepps musky killers, some crankbaits, top water I guess should be fine like jitterbugs but maybe not buzz baits. Not even sure if a weightless wacky 5" would work (I think it's total weight is like 1/2oz IIRC). The highest IP rod I built so far is the Rainshadow 843-3 and I measured it to be somewhere around 650 IP. It's to me, the perfect weight for this stuff but is definitely more fast than I'd like for mainly crankbaits. This rod seems much more moderate which is what I wanted. Anyone ideas if it should be OK for my target applications? Unfortunately, I'm leaving this Friday so I don't really have time to order a new blank and build it in time but I need a spinning rod for this upcoming trip. I'll try to measure it myself later tonight to see if my numbers agree but let's pretend the above are correct - the rod definitely feels much heavier than my Rainshadow 843-3

Thanks again for all the replies, it was a last minute decision to build and I had to pick something quick and order that same day to allow for delivery time then build time before I leave on the trip to meet him. I think he'll be happy with the VSS uplocking config and this AT844-3 blank considering he's coming from an Ugly Stik ?‍? Will re-read all of the replies if I end up building a second spinning rod - which I may actually do after I get back or if he ends up not liking this one.

First time for everything: 1. First ever spook (replaced trebles with Owner ST-36BC #2 and #2 Spro Power Split Rings, I think some threads said #3 but #2 seems good enough) 2. First ever poppers except for my good ol' trusted hula popper collection. Pop-r and Ima popper finesse (I have a Lobina Rico Black Beauty en-route as well) 3. First ever jerkbait. Lucky Craft Pointer 78DD Jerkbait Aurora Black

Thanks DVT. I'll ask his preference before building it. I ordered the VSS Deluxe (all they had in stock), the Fuji nub and VSS contour cork grip so I guess I have both options before building.

I'm building a MH moderate cranking spin rod for my brother and while my first spin rod I built uses an SK2 I think he would prefer a more traditional handle in size 17. I saw here that many prefer the VSS uplocking and I'm wondering what standard components you use to build it? Or if there is a not too complicated similar build I can get off the standard shops. It looks like the rear grip of the VSS would become a foregrip but is anything needed on the rear? He'll be using it mostly for bass up to 7lb, nothing salt or big-game. For reference I attached some configs (but in downlocking) from anglersresource.