RipHair

The thread unraveling was actually on the end I started with. I don't think I was properly wrapping over the thread end enough and when I was using the burnishing tool at the end of the wrap then the whole thing came undone. I will add some more tension next time I wrap, I'm using a wrap jig I rigged up using the modhole box and for pressure I'm wrapping the thread around an eyehook a few times. I may put masking tape there to add some resistance. For the size 17, it wasn't just your recommendation Mick, I was scanning the forum and a few people mentioned size 17. Anyway, I'll see how the size 16 turns out, it's really not that much bigger but I do like how the size 16 inside diameter is a bit closer to the blank diameter. @MickDonce again I'm having trouble locating a particular resource located on anglersresource.net. I searched articles and videos on the two line method but nothing came up. Sorry for my bad luck. One other thing with the guides, how in tarnation do you line them up straight? I tried running some line through them but even that isn't super precise. Only thing I can think of is a laser pointer, something I don't have.

Thanks to everyone's help here I completed my first rod and I'm pretty happy with the result! It took a little bit longer than expected since I seemed to have lost components along the way and had to reorder a couple of extra times. The rod is built on a Rainshadow SB843-3 and will be used for my general fishing: crankbaits, spinnerbaits, texas rig, musky killers, etc.. The idea was to make it as barebones and light as possible so I used a size 17 SK2 split seat, Fuji RV size 6 Ti SiC followed by 3 size 5 alconite Fuji KBs then 7 size 5 alconite Fuji KTs lastly Fuji LG size 5 alconite tip-top. I used size A chestnut brown thread that I think turned out real nice... Basically looks almost black but in the sunlight it has a nice deep brown look sorta like fine mahogany ?. Some observations and things I learned along the way: I cheaped out and got a size LG reamer so had to use my drill to get up to 1/2" and I found that I didn't drill straight but thankfully could fix this as I reamed it out all the way. I since spent another $6 on a MD reamer but I think I'll still need to use a drill. I dunno about the reel seat position, some people said the handle is too short but I put it there after some testing based on if I thought it would get caught in my shirt. I will prob make my next rods' reel seat 1-2" higher towards the tip and maybe I'll get a better idea when actually fishing. I had a lot of fun with static load testing. I couldn't load test properly keeping the guides with masking tape on - they kept moving so I tied the tiptop to a chair so it was at 90deg bend then used braces elastics to hold the guides and didn't have to put a lot of pressure. I ended up going from 2 KBs + 5 KTs to 3 KBs and 7 KTs in the end. I think I got it at 60deg so the line didn't touch but I don't remember. Wrapping isn't easy. I had a few of them come loose just before I was going to epoxy them. I think I finally figured out how to secure the ends now so should be less of an issue. Hook keeper is facing up - I think this will be OK for a casting setup. I thought I had a good idea to duct tape my DeWalt drill at low speed to turn the rod for drying but it seems the stupid drill has some sort of safety shutoff after a couple of minutes. I couldn't figure out how to disable it. I got lazy the first epoxy drying and ended up with lopsided blobs. I filed them down and the 2nd coat seemed to make it more smooth. I still have some sharp things in my epoxy, not sure if they're thread ends sticking out or bubbles but should I use a razor blade to even them? I don't really want to apply any more epoxy - already got 2 coats of the Flex Coat low build. I think I'm addicted to building rods now. Rod came in at 3.5oz (100g) in the end. Was interesting to see that it was 99g before my 2nd epoxy coat. My next build is gonna be the SB841-3 that @MickD originally recommended. This will be for lighter detail like weightless wormin' but if it can cast some 3/4oz musky killers then this power rod (rated at M power I think) will be my general purpose rod and I'll be building yet a lighter rod for the finessing stuff. It will be a bait caster setup as well but this time with size 16 so I can compare. Will be using gold thread for this and the next one. The blank I'll be building with the SB841-3 is a AT841-3 Mag Bass Travel Rod Blank that feels way more whippy than the SB841-3. I'll be building this as a spinning rod so maybe this will end up being my favorite for finesse weightless worming. I also have my eyes on an SCV 2pc - it'll be a bit longer and harder to travel with but I'm really curious to see how that fishes. Also, before spending the money I want to get a better feel for the power profiles of these 3 rods so I can dial in exactly what SCV I want.

Awesome work! I'm nearly finished my first build on a rainshadow but 3pc, will post the results too.

Started on static load testing and indeed I didn't have enough guides (I actually lost 1 guide somewhere during the move). For this 7' rod, I followed Batson's video and placed my RV at 24" from the center of the reel seat instead of 20" like for spinning guides. During a 60deg load test my 2 KB's and 6 KTs' aren't enough so I'll probably add another KB and maybe a KT as well.

Seems OK I suppose. I haven't really casted with it or with a 7' rod for that matter but I guess I should maybe just finish up this rod and see how it feels before setting up the other 2 blanks I got. How do you measure the balance? Do you go by feel or do you actually get the rod to balance horizontally when holding it at the reel position? The the latter then I feel as though the reel seat would have to be mighty far up there to get to that!

Do you mean for reel seat placement so the rod balances nicely when your hand is on the reel or do you mean is the size of the reel balanced with the power of the rod?

I haven't finished my first casting rod yet that will be used mostly for throwing texas rigs but as I mentioned before I placed the reel seat so the trigger is 10" from the end of the butt. I think some mentioned it is too short but I feel as though it's a good length so it doesn't get caught in my shirt. I'm about to place reel seats on 2 more 7'0 rods, one spinning and one casting. These will also be used for light finesse fishing, mostly weightless worms, etc.. Before I set them, would be curious to know how far up others put their reel seats. My St Croix Triumph 6'6 MH/F casting rod has its trigger at 9.5" so mine in effect is 0.5" farther up towards the tip. Thanks for your advice. I did the same when gluing my tips except that I used UB40 rod glue as I didn't have that glue stick. Guess I'll find out about the threads the hard way - I don't have any "D" size! Did you find that alconite and torzite are prone to grooving? I don't think I'd go as low as 4# test but may go as low as 6# or 8# FC. Also agreed re: power. Thankfully, when I'm not fishing the deep south, I don't have too much bad cover. Thanks, I'll keep those in mind when building more rods. Regarding weight, I'm nearly done my first build so I'm quite curious to know how much it'll weigh.

I think I see the video, about 60% through he talks about spinning and at one point he talks about the first stripper guide going somewhere between 19" and 22". I also somehow skipped this: https://anglersresource.net/static-load-tutorial/ which makes it pretty clear that I was completely overthinking this whole shebang. Thanks for the help - almost through my first build!

Thanks, I have some blue painters tape I can try. Regarding handle length, I searched this forum as best I could for guidance and in the end I just went by feel and not getting hung up in my clothes. I read some people stating "starting at 8" from butt to back of reel seat and shorten from there" if I'm quoting correctly. Mine from butt to back of reel seat measures 10.5". I attached a photo of the rod next to my St Croix Triumph 6'6 casting MH/F rod and it appears my handle is a tad longer. This rod won't be used for hauling heavy lures so I don't really need the leverage. It will mostly be used for plastics/TRigs, so will probably be one-handed casting mostly. Curious what would your handle length recommendation be?

I wasn't even aware there was a Fuji video. I did find some documentation on their website but it was all in Japanese.

Hey DVT, I started off at 20" and scooted it back to 24.25" and it seems to be going through the middle of the guide now. Does 24.25" seem entirely reasonable or do you think I'm doing something wrong? I take it I should continue to distance guides 2-3 so the line is centered as well?

I was using the Angler's Resource for spinning train reduction but I'm not aware of a similar resource for casting guides. The rod I'm building is 7'0, casting (Shimano Scorpion DC - I think it's like a Curado DC?). Reel top (where the line exits) is 13" from the butt. Guides are RV 6mm, 3 KB 5mm, 5-6 KT 5's then LG 5mm tip top. Without any guide I suppose I just need to ensure that the line coming out of the reel is coming out of the center of the ring on the reel and also coming in centered to the RV, then I guess just make it nice and smooth the rest of the way. Thanks for any tips/advice!

After building my first 2 rods using cheaper blanks (actually in progress) I was planning to go all out on a non-painted SCV70MF2 or SCV70MLF2 with titanium + torzite (or SIC) throughout. I haven't ever held or fished a Legend Extreme but do you reckon I could get a similar performance build?

Mudhole package arrived with all the components. I only got a Large size reamer so I plan to use a drill to open up the butt and rest of the stuff. Hopefully I can get the butt, real seat on today and start on the wraps tomorrow once dry. Unfortunately, I ordered the exact size tip-tops 1.8mm and 2.2mm and they don't fit. It seems as though the tip-tops are rated to their O.D not I.D. Unsure if I should try to open them a bit to fit or wait another week for replacements. Any advice? Update: Using the Fuji fighting butts - they were a bit of a pain to ream - had to drill using 3/8" then 1/2" bit to be able to get my L size reamer in to grid it larger. I didn't end up making it perfectly centered so if I roll my end piece and the butt on the floor there's a bit of unevenness. Used UB40 and got the arbors in the split reel seat components and the butt is on both rods (SB841-3 and SB843-3). Butts were much smaller than I was envisioning but I'm actually happy with them. Will try to dry-fit the reel seats tomorrow after this UB40 cures. Spinning rod (SB841-3) will be used weightless worms, so plenty of fancy precision casting, will prob put the reel up around 9" so the butt is ~2" short of my elbow. Basically wanna get it as far up the rod as I can without the butt catching in my clothes. Same will go for the SB843-3 (casting) I think. For thread I got Fuji Ultra Size A Chestnut and Goldenrod.

Mudhole package arrived with all the components. I only got a Large size reamer so I plan to use a drill to open up the butt and rest of the stuff. Hopefully I can get the butt, real seat on today and start on the wraps tomorrow once dry. Unfortunately, I ordered the exact size tip-tops 1.8mm and 2.2mm and they don't fit. It seems as though the tip-tops are rated to their O.D not I.D. Unsure if I should try to open them a bit to fit or wait another week for replacements. Any advice?

Thanks Mick and good suggestion bumping up to 5.5 for this rod and also getting extra KTs. Too bad these manufacturers don't specify I.D. instead of using O.D. for guide sizing - I just don't see how O.D. matters for any sort of consideration.

Is there any difference between RV and LRV Fuji guides? I was planning on doing RV 6mm to 3 x KB 4mm, 5 x KT 4mm. Also, for tip-top for the casting, is it OK to go with LG 4mm (it's listed as spin only) or must you go MN or F?

Sorry I didn't have a good way to measure the AA so I left it as an exercise for later. I'm moving to a new place at the end of the month so I should be able to get these measured then. Thanks again for the Rainshadow recommendation - it looks to be a really nice rod and I like the color/finish. As I plan on building a few more rods, perhaps I should continue with the Rainshadow instead of the MHX? MHX is about 2X the cost and I'm not a fan of the lighter gray of the MHX. Only downside I think is there was a Made in China sticker on the Rainshadow and I think MHX is made in the US. Would be curious if anyone has CCS figures on the MHX blanks? I also found this St Croix 2pc in SCV: https://rodgeeks.com/collections/st-croix-scv-blanks/products/scv70mf2 Wonder how this particular blank at $195 would compare to the SB841-3? Certainly not as portable as the 3pc, but looks like 3pc options are pretty limited and I'm sure one day I'll want to step up some builds.

I measured the SB841-3 to be about 19.1 ERN and the SB843-3 to be 22 ERN. So this SB843-3 is quite a bit heavier than my existing heavy duty rod. I'm sure it will turn out fine!

I think I will make these 2 rods casting rods as mudhole is out of stock on 2 guides I need for spinning. Is the recommendation to use LKW to 3*KB + 4*KT? I think @MickD mentioned that he prefers RV instead of LKW but it seems to be much higher? My casting reels are Shimano Scorpion DC and Abu Revo STX.

https://mudhole.com/products/extreme-reamer?variant=34416780214405 Not sure if there's a typo here but looks like there is a gap between 0.475" to 0.495" where the others have overlap. This exact table with the gap is replicated across all retailers as well so either it's true or all retailers copied a typo. From my blank, 0.480" is a possible diameter based on where I want my reel placed.

SB841-3 and SB843-3 arrived today. Really nice looking blanks and appear to be quite light. I don't have anything on them yet but they seem to be much stiff/less whippy than my St Croix MH 6'6 Triumph travel rods. One thing I noticed is the butt ends are way more thick than I expected. The St Croix rods I'm comparing against are at least 10-20% thinner at the base.

That's exactly the effect I'm after and I could swear I had some rods back in the day that sound sort of like this - being pretty dark but lit up under direct sunlight. Also, just wanted to update everyone that I'll be building this in the next few weeks. I'm in the middle of a move so not sure if I want to take it on before or after. Also, I'm still waiting on the 2 Rainshadow blanks to arrive which haven't shipped yet... Here is the final list except not sure about butt grip: BGK485C vs BGKSC; would prefer the smaller one but hard to visualize if it's too small without ordering both. Don't plan on putting any grips on this but will dryfit and check if the SK2 is enough on its own. Actually ordering both size 16 and size 17 reel seats to compare. Same with KL-H: 20H - 10H - 5.5M and 16H - 8H - 5.5M. Will try16H for this lighter weight rod and see how it goes. Model Component Price Count Ext Blank: SB841-3 Rainshadow SB841-3 $79.69 1 $79.69 Reel Seat: SKSS17/ASH Fuji SK2 Graphite Hood with Graphite Nut SKSS - Size 17 $6.15 1 $6.15 SKSS17/B Fuji SK2 Spinning Body SKSS - Size 17 $2.95 1 $2.95 SKPSN17/B Fuji Threaded Barrel for SK2 Hoods SKPSN - Size 17 $1.95 1 $1.95 NSA-17 Fuji Graphite Arbors - Size 17 $1.09 2 $2.18 Fore grip: None Rear grip: None Butt: BGKSC Butt Grip for Fuji Split Grip SK2 Reel Seats $4.59 1 $4.59 Reduction Guides: Fuji KL Alconite CC Silver 16H - 8H - 5.5M $9.17 1 $9.17 Running Guides: Fuji KB Alconite CC Silver 4mm $2.09 2 $4.18 Fuji KT Alconite CC Silver 4mm $2.05 4 $8.20 Tip-Top Guide: Fuji LG CC Gunmetal SIC Ring 4mm Tube 5mm $4.89 1 $4.89 $123.95

I see what you mean and I certainly will. Thanks for posting nonetheless. How do you like the effect vs using NoCP or CP'ing thread? I think I found an excellent example from one of the Flex Coat folks. Right at 2:16 he said he likes using untreated threads although not sure if it's because of the look or because he said it makes it strong? Indeed the finished product looks almost black but I bet you can see the subtle gold if you look close!

Thanks for this. I think it was actually your advice before that made me cancel my NoCP black in the first place as you said regular CP thread would turn slightly translucent and have subtle overall effect which is precisely what I want! Would be great to have a very subtle dark red or gold you'd only really see if you looked closely. Was just curious if there were any example pics I could use to try to extrapolate start CP color -> end color to help in my purchase decision. I think I'll take your advice and buy a few colors of regular nylon Size A and wrap one of my triumph blanks to see how it looks.