SpellCaster

Yeah I tried Fireline once and didn't like it straight out of the box.

Howdy, Something I saw on the back side of the package of this Berkley Forward braid caught my attention: "Conventional Braids flatten out the more they are fished." It's the first I've ever heard a claim like that. Has anyone experienced something like that? I pretty much use braid on my reel until I run out of line for a long cast. And I haven't had any issues yet with anything supposedly flattening out. And if it does happen, does it make any noticeable difference?

Howdy, I've been researching fishing kayaks to narrow down my choices for a good pedal drive setup that won't break the bank. I'm down to the following three models and would appreciate feedback on any of them to help me decide which to go with: Old Town Sportsman 106 PDL Jackson Bite FD Native Slayer Propel 10 LTE My preferences that led me to these three are that I'm wanting a 10ft for sake of loading/unloading weight as well as saving a bit on storage space. I'm not entirely opposed to a motorized kayak, but I'd rather avoid having to register it, and save on weight and the extra expense of a motor+battery. The only features I've thought of so far that I would want to add on to any of these are: Horizontal rod storage system like from YakAttack Anchor Wizard Kayak wheel cart Swivel seat Whoever has any of these models, what are the pros and cons for your use? Upgrades you can't live without?

I can't say that I'm any more skilled at fishing than you are, so I'm just commenting to say that I've learned to approach fishing as simply as possible: 1. Find the fish. Simple but not easy. Covering water has been a valuable tactic for me. 2. Once found, figure out how to get them to bite. Also simple, also not easy. I prefer to be more minimalistic in this process, rotating through macro category presentations: topwaters, mid-column swimmers, & bottom contact lures. If they don't bite my default lures for those categories then I refine to either alternative lure profiles within those categories, or vary speeds/pauses. There isn't much rhyme or reason to my color selections, it's more instinctual. But I might change up to an alternate color depending on water clarity, cloudy/sunny conditions, or if I'm getting bites but the bass aren't really committed to eating the bait. Using live shiners can be a real fun way to kickstart things. If you aren't sure/confident in lure selection and feel like you're blindly covering water but missing fish because you're using the wrong presentation, try live bait. They just about always bite live bait.

Zoom Salty Super Fluke rigged weightless on a 2/0 Gamakatsu round bend worm hook has been my most productive by far. I haven't tried all the different brands of flukes, so I can't say if there's a better lure out there, but I have noticed some have less/differing action than others. The Big Bit Baits is very comparable to Zoom. As far as rigging goes, I started off with an EWG hook texposed, in various sizes. As I experimented I found that I got more consistent hooksets with a smaller hook and with the worm hooks - this is because there were a lot of small schooling bass where I was fishing and I'm A-OK with catching more fish even if they're smaller - so I made the change to work hooks in 2/0. I will also keep fishing the same fluke until I can't hook it at all anymore. I also like the worm hook because when the lure starts to get really worn I can rig it upside down so the hook comes out the belly, and because the shank is straight it lines up with the back of the lure and doesn't look out of place.

I'm curious to know anyone's thoughts on how you determine the limitations of different hook thicknesses; particularly in how they relate to the line pound test used in order to ensure effective hooksets without risking breaking your line. Just as a hyperbolic example: you wouldn't tie a 1/2oz jig onto 4lb test. I know almost all of this can be cleared up by following the line and lure weight recommendations on your rod. However, I've found a couple cases when I have to improvise. One case being when fishing a texposed weightless fluke and using relatively light line. Say I'm using 10# braided main line with 8# mono leader. What's the biggest size/gauge hook you feel confident tying on? Not that I feel a need for a 5/0 hook in that situation - I usually have a 1/0 or 2/0. Just wondering if anyone has tested out the limits of what's effective. My understanding is it all comes down to the fact that a thicker wire hook will require more pounds of pressure in the hooksets to penetrate a fish's mouth - assuming all your hooks are equally sharp (and I know they're not always). And there are multiple factors that play varying levels of roles in how that pressure is applied in the hookset (rod action, drag setting, line type, whether the hook is exposed or not, etc).

Agree with Pat's suggestions. I'd also say little Ned Rig lures like mini craws and the like.

Does anyone have a favorite custom small batch soft plastic maker/supplier? I've been window shopping on Facebook for custom colors for basic stuff like Flukes/worms.

I'm not seeing those on the map. Can you point me to some?

Howdy, I'm still relatively new to Clarksville and haven't really been able to adequately scratch the proverbial itch of my compulsion to catch fish since moving here last year. I'm looking for suggestions on places to fish and/or other locals who might want to fish together. Don't have a boat and I'm working on getting a kayak. Thus far I've tried fishing the Cumberland around the marina and downtown with zero success for bass (just a few skipjack and white bass). Other than that I've rented a kayak and floated down the Red River, and waded a the Sulphur Fork down in Charlotte a couple times. Looking at getting access to Lake Kyle, and would love to explore Kentucky Lake/LBL areas. Thanks

For real. Chris Zaldain mentioned AR goggles in conjunction with Livescope a few years ago. Didn't say he was using it but knew someone who was.

Using AI and GPS and Livescope ain't enough. You gotta go all the way, man, and figure out how to incorporate a VR headset too. Use it in conjunction with Livescope and have AI transfer the 2D scope image to 3D models of your lure and any fish in sight (plus mapping the surrounding structure) so you can see up close digitized models in 3D space of how the fish are reacting in real time to your presentation. Should probably deploy drones too, both airborne and underwater.

Agreed with 4n2t0. Pressure from other anglers can REALLY kill the bite. Urban ponds can be deceptively tough for that reason. That, and some bodies of water just don't have good bass fishing - from my understanding, due to lack of features like aquatic vegetation/structure/forage/etc. If you can find water a bit removed from the suburbs where you think people don't frequent it as much you may have an easier time getting bit. The only time I've had GOOD success on an pond in the city was at a public park that only opened the pond to fishing maybe 5-6 days out of the year. Since it was practically untouched 99% of the time, when you were finally able to fish it you could catch a bass on nearly every cast. When I started out bass fishing I would get discouraged by trying every lure under the sun without really understanding what time/conditions were best for each technique. Over time I learned what lures are my "anywhere anytime" lures and I always pack those for fishing a new body of water to find fish. If I don't get bit on those then I move on.

Throwing a weightless fluke right into a spot that just blew up has caught me two 5-pound Largemouth and a 3lb Smallie, and dozens upon dozens of smaller bass. Skipping the fluke into the spot can be good. Letting it just fall has worked. Twitching it erratically across the surface works. And everything in between too.

ALABAMA Ray Scott Richard Gene The Fishing Machine