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NothingButDinks

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  1. Thanks everyone for the input, his was really helpful. After reading through all of this, I’m just not going to change anything on the Bantam or Steez. They’re already great reels, and I’m not interested in chasing a few percentage points in casting distance. The explanations about braking systems, spool mass, and how free-spool tests can be misleading really helped put things into perspective. For what I’m doing and how I fish, it sounds like keeping the stock bearings clean and properly oiled makes more sense than swapping parts. Really appreciate everyone sharing their experience and taking the time to explain it all. Learned a lot from this thread.
  2. Hey guys, had a quick question regarding bearing upgrades on some newer Bantams and Steez SV TWs. For higher-end reels, is it actually worth upgrading the spool bearings to ceramic? A few buddies of mine run Curados and have swapped theirs out, and it seems like they’re getting a little more castin g distance. Their reels are also super smooth and will free-spool forever. My Bantam and Steez are already smooth as butter, but they definitely don’t free-spool like theirs do with the bearing upgrades. Not sure if that’s just the nature of these reels or if ceramics would actually make a noticeable difference. Just wondering if it’s worth putting the money into on higher-end reels like these, or if the gains are pretty minimal. If it is worth it, what bearings should I be looking at? Thanks!
  3. Sounds like ST36's it is! Thank y'all!
  4. Anyone have recommendations for upgrading the trebles on a Choppo 120? I believe they come stock with #2 round bends, but I’m wondering if something like a Mustad Triple Grip or Owner ST-35 (short shank) would be a better option — or if I should just stick with round bends like the ST-36 or Gamakatsu. I throw this bait so much during the summer that I just want to squeeze as much as I can out of it.
  5. First off, thanks to everyone for the awesome feedback. I’ve only been fishing for about a year now, and Samurai is what I ended up going with. It’s been working well for me, though I do use line conditioner (I usually give it a squirt once a month or so — KVD Line & Lure). Not sure if that’s helped my results or not. Overall, it’s performed really well. I was just curious how it stacks up against some of the other high-end fluoros. If Tatsu is noticeably better, I could see myself switching once I run out of Samurai. Might even try to grab some if I catch it on sale just to see the difference. For InvisX, I’ve mainly used it on my big swimbait setup with 25lb test. At that strength, I’m not sure if there’s really much difference between lines. That rod only sees action in the spring and fall anyway. I'm basically a nerd when it comes to gear and what not and this question was really peaking my interest!! I'm definitely interested in hearing your opinions on R18 and why?
  6. I currently am using mostly Daiwa J-Fluoro Samurai line on most of my setups. It ranges from 12 to 18lb test. On my big swimbait rod I have 25lb InvizX. I haven't really thrown anything else and am happy with the Samurai (haven't thrown the invizX enough to know). My question is is Tatsu or Shooter worth the money for the upgrade? I have a few friends that swear by it (Tatsu) and if it's that much better I don't mind spending the money but wanted to ask.
  7. Thanks everyone. Going to try a couple different ones suggest and see what works best for me!
  8. Was a big fan of Sunline Defier Armilo. Always used #13 for my cranks and topwaters. I'm guessing its discontinued as I can't find it anywhere. My question is what are your go to for mono? Looking for something similar or better. Thanks
  9. NothingButDinks changed their profile photo
  10. Thought this could be fun and also informative. If you could only have 1 crankbait for smallmouth in 2024 what would it be along with what color and size? Mine would be a Frittside 5 in the special red craw color. Haven't caught any bigs yet this year with it but it's putting up numbers everytime I go out!
  11. Hey everyone! I made it up to Sleepy Creek last Friday (5-17-24) for a quick kayak trip. The road in wasn't too bad, though it might have been rough if I were pulling a boat. I was surprised by all the vegetation in the water—it extended 15 to 20 feet out from the shoreline. The lake has some great structure, but the vegetation is everywhere. I've never fished a lake with this much plant life before. I only managed to catch a couple of small bass on a chatterbait. How do you all fish this lake? Do you target the outside edge of the vegetation, use a Texas rigged creature bait to flip the cover, or try something like a topwater frog? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!
  12. Welcome! I'm near you and there are a lot of great places to fish. The Shenandoah/Potomac is having an unreal year with bigger smallmouth!
  13. I'll be nose hooking and texas rigging. I will also be using this as a ned rig rod as well as I'll be in a kayak and need the rods to do multiple jobs as I only really have room for 6 rods. Would the 7'2 be better then if I'm going to be ned rigging as well of this same rod?
  14. I know this topic has been beaten to death but as I look through the searches and google I'm still confused as when I started!!! I've decided on the expride b lineup for my dropshot rod (hoping to through 1/10 neds on it as well). My question comes in I've read so many different things on which one to get. It's between the 6'10" ML and the 7'2" ML. Does anyone have any experience with these and which one would you pick? (I'll be fishing out of a kayak btw and trying to stay around 6 rods total so looking for rods to do multiple things) I am not opposed if there is something better in that price range, but would have to sell me on it at this point.
  15. I'm in Bunker Hill so super close. I have been trying to get a day free to get out on the potomac!
  16. Thank you for the advise. That is definitely the route that I'm going. I'm more of a buy once cry once kind of person.

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