Are there any "PVC type" products that can be used on a riveted hull? If not, would roller bunks be just as good? Thanks.

I use these on a riveted 1990 Alumicraft MV Angler and they work great.  No mention of whether or not the boat is riveted with this product,  Just make dang sure your boat is attached to the winch before backing or pulling back up the ramp because they are slick!

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/caliber-marine-slides-15x15-black-trailer-bunk-pads.aspx?a=464054

Buddy has a 94' tracker 175 (riveted) and used regular bunks. From what he just told me he's never had a problem. Curious, are normal bunks supposed to be bad for rivet hulls?

Buddy has a 94' tracker 175 (riveted) and used regular bunks. From what he just told me he's never had a problem. Curious, are normal bunks supposed to be bad for rivet hulls?

He is asking about PVC bunk products that make loading and unloading much easier.  Not the standard carpet bunks.  The ones I recommended screw down on top of carpeted bunks.  They also make full PVC bunks but many are not  to be used with riveted boats by the manufacturer for what ever reason.  Some rivets can tear up certain types of PVC.

I use these on a riveted 1990 Alumicraft MV Angler and they work great.  No mention of whether or not the boat is riveted with this product,  Just make dang sure your boat is attached to the winch before backing or pulling back up the ramp because they are slick!

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/caliber-marine-slides-15x15-black-trailer-bunk-pads.aspx?a=464054

Thanks. Are those different than the other types out there in any way? Are the tops totally flat? I can't tell by the pic.

He is asking about PVC bunk products that make loading and unloading much easier.  Not the standard carpet bunks.  The ones I recommended screw down on top of carpeted bunks.  They also make full PVC bunks but many are not  to be used with riveted boats by the manufacturer for what ever reason.  Some rivets can tear up certain types of PVC.

 

 

Well now that makes sense.

Practice loading and unloading with the trailer in different depths. Find the sweet spot and you won't need to add anything to the trailer. The tops of the fenders just above water is a good starting point.

Thanks. Are those different than the other types out there in any way? Are the tops totally flat? I can't tell by the pic.

Yes, they are flat. The rivets might scratch them but I've had them on for 3 years and they are still quite serviceable.

Yes, they are flat. The rivets might scratch them but I've had them on for 3 years and they are still quite serviceable.

Actually the ones I posted are grooved on top.  Available in black or white and a couple of different widths.  I purchased them to separate my boat from the treated lumber bunks the P.O. had installed but quickly fell in love with them.  I only have to put about a foot of the boat in the water and can push it off the trailer.  Never have to get my feet wet or climb over in the bed of the truck.  Loading is even better since with more trailer out of the water the boat centers itself better on the bunks.  I bought another set to put on my Trackers trailer if I ever get the chance.

Actually the ones I posted are grooved on top.  Available in black or white and a couple of different widths.  I purchased them to separate my boat from the treated lumber bunks the P.O. had installed but quickly fell in love with them.  I only have to put about a foot of the boat in the water and can push it off the trailer.  Never have to get my feet wet or climb over in the bed of the truck.  Loading is even better since with more trailer out of the water the boat centers itself better on the bunks.  I bought another set to put on my Trackers trailer if I ever get the chance.

Thanks. What's the purpose of the grooves? I assumed the sliks are not recommended for riveted boats because the rivets would get damaged. Does that make sense?

Thanks. What's the purpose of the grooves? I assumed the sliks are not recommended for riveted boats because the rivets would get damaged. Does that make sense?

They work fine for riveted boats.  No damage at all after a year of heavy use so far.  As I stated above they do not say anything about not using them on riveted boats.  That is the reason I bought these over other ones.  They're cheap enough that even if they did wear out just replace them.

Practice loading and unloading with the trailer in different depths. Find the sweet spot and you won't need to add anything to the trailer. The tops of the fenders just above water is a good starting point.

Apparently you have never had to back your vehicle all the way into the water and then some on a shallow lake just to get the boat anywhere near being launchable. 

They work fine for riveted boats.  No damage at all after a year of heavy use so far.  As I stated above they do not say anything about not using them on riveted boats.  That is the reason I bought these over other ones.  They're cheap enough that even if they did wear out just replace them.

They work fine for riveted boats.  No damage at all after a year of heavy use so far.  As I stated above they do not say anything about not using them on riveted boats.  That is the reason I bought these over other ones.  They're cheap enough that even if they did wear out just replace them.

I'm not worried about damaging the sliks, my concern is damaging my boat's rivets.

Apparently you have never had to back your vehicle all the way into the water and then some on a shallow lake just to get the boat anywhere near being launchable. 

That is correct Northern IL doesn't allow us the opportunity. Not enough water and too many boating restrictions.

I'm not worried about damaging the sliks, my concern is damaging my boat's rivets.

Well my boat constantly runs over rocks, stumps, logs, etc with no damage to the rivets.  I really don't see how pulling the boat onto something as soft as plastic that is super slick is possibly going to do any damage to a rivet.

Well my boat constantly runs over rocks, stumps, logs, etc with no damage to the rivets.  I really don't see how pulling the boat onto something as soft as plastic that is super slick is possibly going to do any damage to a rivet.

You're probably right. I'm just trying to be sure before I waste the money. Are the ones you have 1.5" or 3" wide?

Mine are the 3 wide since my 2x4 bunks lay flat.  1 1/2 is for bunks that are stood on the edge.

Mine are the 3 wide since my 2x4 bunks lay flat.  1 1/2 is for bunks that are stood on the edge.

Thanks