Hi,

Finally getting around to building my Dad's Christmas present (I've been procrastinating..   : ).  

I have a couple of questions for the experts here.

I've already found the spine and mounted my seat, rear and fore grips.   Now I'm trying to finalize guide placement.  It's a 6' st. croix M-L action casting rod.    I bought a set of 9 fuji alconite new concept guides and am in static testing.  The problem is that I can always make the line touch the rod, under load, in the first foot from the tip.  Seems like I'd need a guide every inch and a half for the first foot to keep the line off the rod under load.  Is this normal?  

Second question.   I've only just now realized there is another part that I didn't order, and that's a winding check.   I'd rather keep chugging along than stopping to wait for another delivery.   Is this something I can forgo?  I was wondering, instead of a winding check, can I make a filet of epoxy at the foregrip to rod interface that will stay intact?   If possible, how would I do this?  Should I use finish epoxy or standard building epoxy?  Should the rod be verticle or should I do it horizontally just like normal thread finishing?    Are there any special techniques?  

Thank you much,

Terri

Terry,

Unfortunately, if you are not going to spiral wrap the rod, on a rod that light, the line will more than likely touch the blank somewhere.  The only thing you can do is just try to space the guides in such a manner that the line touches the blank somewhat evenly from guide to guide.  In other words, space the guides so that the line touches the blank the same between each guide(assuming it touches the blank in more than one place).

As far as the winding check goes, if you ream carefully, you don't need one.  What I do now instead of placing a rubber or metal check, is to do a epoxy winding check.  All I do is get some five minute epoxy and mix up a small batch and mix in just a tad of black Testors model paint with the tip of a tooth pic.  You will want to let the paint sit for a while ( it may take a day or so) with out disturbing it so that the pigment will settle out and the solvent float to the top and pour as much solvent off as you can prior to using.  Chuck your rod up in your dryer and elevate the other end a few inches and get the rod turning.  Make sure and have this ready before mixing up your epoxy!  As the rod is turning, take your toothpick and start applying the epoxy to the rod where the grip and the cork meet and use the tip of the toothpick to manipulate the epoxy as needed.  Keep adding it as you go...building it up as needed.  I usually shoot for about a 45degree angle ramp from the rod to the cork.  After I am satisfied that I don't need to add anymore epoxy, I take a coffee filter or paper towel moistened with alcohol and fold an edge in it and lower it to the edge of the ramp and blank to create a smooth edge.  Then, just let it turn 'till it sets up.  It can sometimes be difficult to get a perfect edge, so I usually wrap my hook keeper wrap close enough that the wrap goes all the way to the check and hides any imperfections.  The thing to remember is you are dealing with five minute epoxy, so work fast.  If you don't have a dryer motor, you probably ought to get one.  They can be bought on e-bay pretty cheap.  I Have a 4rpm for drying and a 44rpm for drying, and applying thread finish.  I feel the 44rpm works the best for making the epoxy check.  Hope this helps.

TJ

Terri,

Keep in mind that you are working with a med-light.... so probably like a 8 or 10 lb test rod? If so, your drag will be set in the 2-3 lb range. Use the expected drag (plus a tiny bit more) as the guide to how much pressure you use in static. My guess is that you are applying too much weight to the blank in your test. With a "guides up" rod there will always be extremes that cause line contact, what you are looking for no contact in the range of "normal usage."

As for winding checks, I don't usually use them on my bass rods. If you reamed the cork carefully there won't be a gap between the blank and cork. If there is you can use an epoxy ramp as stated above or you can make a decorative wrap (assuming you have a small gap) and finish with thread finish or you can order the right size rubber check and cut it in 1 place (I use a 45 degree angle, seems easier to line back up when glueing) and install later when it arrives.

Last thought, I remember people at RBO saying that home depot ot lowe's or a hardware store (don't remember which) sold seals that were practically identical to the rubber and vinyl checks.

Thanks Guys,

I have a very small gap, and I do have the hook keeper very close to the foregrip, so maybe I can just add some more threading up to the grip and when I finish, it should completely hide the small gap.

The rod is light, 4-10 lb rated and the fishing my Dad is in the 5 lb and less range.  I thought he might appreciate the light weight and action of this rod versus the heavy duty stuff (and pocket fisherman) he usually uses.   I bought a nice bass pro baitcasting reel (color coordinated to my threading of course).    He hasn't used a baitcaster since I was a kid, I hope he doesn't mind re-learning.    I'm thinking of spooling it with 8 lb line.

Best Regards,

Terri