Thanks Reelmech! I think I will slowly ream a little more to get my pieces a little closer to the finished location. This is a great step by step pictorial. It has answered some questions and clearified "how to" for me. Thanks again!

Hey flechero,

Just got word from the customer, that he will not be buying the rod after all.....

So I'm going to finish it up and use it with one of my Accurist, it should balance out the way I like (slightly tip heavy), or I can sell it out of my rack. Now I can take my time......

Tight Wraps!

Uh oh... hope I didn't curse it with my comments! Sorry to hear it. As a side note, do you collect a deposit before starting custom rods? Seems I read that 50% deposit or at least material cost was customary. Just curious.

I was going to ask about the sticker since 1/2 of it was visible, then I remembered you marble the area. You should keep it for yourself... kind of a self reward for sharing the knowledge with us!

Don't take too much time, you're getting to the good stuff now!

flechero

As a side note, do you collect a deposit before starting custom rods?  Seems I read that 50% deposit or at least material cost was customary.

Yup I get the component cost non-refundable up front. When he canceled the order I told him he could have the blank with what I had done up to that point, but that no other builder in town would touch the project. He turned it down, so I get to build it up and set it in my rack (like I need another rod) LOL :

I was going to ask about the sticker since 1/2 of it was visible, then I remembered you marble the area.

Yeah I leave the manufacturers blank sticker on the rod (for warranty), I just under wrap with the blank color if nothing is to be done to that area. But your right I am going to have the boss marble it.... ;D

nirrad,

thanks for all the info you are the man,  it's great you are taking the time to show this and answer questions.

No problem, that is what flechero, JimRippe, myself, and the rest of the builders do here...

vtbassin.

I think I will slowly ream a little more to get my pieces a little closer to the finished location.  This is a great step by step pictorial.  It has answered some questions and clearified "how to" for me.

Take it slow and try to get down to 1" from your mark. If you get nervous trying just try to get as close as possible then....

One thing I did forget though is the very first step and that is spineing the blank. But everyone reading this understands spineing the blank right .......The reason I forgot is that is what I do when the blank first reaches me. So I never have to worry about forgetting to do it.... LOL    If needed I can post a pic of the process.....  

Tight Wraps!    

When he canceled the order I told him he could have the blank with what I had done up to that point, but that no other builder in town would touch the project. He turned it down

I believe he meant to ask you to ship it to his buddy keith in Texas for the cost of shipping! ;D ;D

I imagine you have a real collection of rods... but hey, it's not often you get to build yourself a new one with "free" components! Maybe you could try something new or out of the box since you'll only have labor in it. Hey, you might use Threadmaster on this one... it can be your "Lamar experiment." ...lol

Reelmech,

I did find the spine and mark it first thing.  I have been reading on the RB board that it does not make that much if any difference in the rods performance and  building on the blank's curve may be better.  The blank I have is straight so I will use the spine.  Do you think it helps performance??

vtbassin,

I did find the spine and mark it first thing.  I have been reading on the RB board that it does not make that much if any difference in the rods performance and  building on the blank's curve may be better.  The blank I have is straight so I will use the spine.  Do you think it helps performance??

I try to make a habit of checking the spline first (just in case) then checking the curve. Actually this blank did have a curve about 1/8th of a turn off of the spline, and I placed the reel seat centered on the curve. You have read as much about it on the dot org board as I have, as far a performance if I had to make long cast all day with the rod I might tend to think yes it would, but 10% of my long cast aren't much over 40' and the other 90% of the time I'm pitching 8-10'. So I don't really worry about or make to much out of the spline anymore.

Tight Wraps!      

A follow up on the last question if I may.  What % of blanks have the natural curve and spine on the same plane?  All of mine so far have been right on or within a few degrees. (of course we are only talking 5 rods to date)  Have I been lucky or is this normal?

Thanks!

-Keith

flechero,

Back in the 90's when I was building only on Loomis blanks I saw very little curve in any of the blanks I got. But here lately I have been seeing more and more with a curve just off of the spline. So I'm thinking it is becoming more the norm now.

Tight Wraps!  

flechero,

On a side note the straightest blanks I have seen and used are the Shikäri line of blanks ( Located in Kellyville, Oklahoma, just outside Tulsa). But then MSRP's can run from SHIII $160+ to SHX $175+ a blank.

That was one of the first blank lines I considered for replacing the Loomis rods I have now.  I talked to the sales rep for Shikari (he said he used to work at G. Loomis) about the different models and materials and how they might compare to Loomis in terms of feel and action.  Ultimately, I chose St. Croix since I had no way to handle a Shikari for comparison.  I just couldn't get myself to spend that kind of money and not be able to feel the stiffness and action.  I can handle almost all the St.Croix models at Sportsman's warehouse.

On a side note to the side note! ....lol  I may have a deal worked out with my local archery supplier to begin placing my blank & component orders (at wholesale) that way I can get a good discount and he'll make a few extra dollars in his slow season.  I know there is a good size mark up in some of the $$$ blanks, is it that way with guides and cork too?  Maybe I'll get to try a Shikari yet!  Do you know if Loomis does blanks wholesale?  I've not seen them advertised anywhere like that.

I have only built on 2 Shikäri blanks, the SHX pmb704 it was MSRP $136.75 made a nice lightweight heavy action pitching stick from it. The other was an SHIII IMB 663 that I built for spinner baits and sold the blank MSRP was $87.50.

I get all of my blanks, cork, guides, finish, threads, etc. at wholesale from Bingahm Ent (15 years now). I think it would depend on whether the distributor sells wholesale and carries the Loomis line.

Tight Wraps!    

ReelMech,

When you glue the FlexCoat arbors in place (in the reel seat) do you just coat them with epoxy and push them in?  Or do you try to spin them some how to get a more even coat of epoxy around the arbor?  Do you add epoxy in the reel seat at the same time?

Thanks!

vtbassin,

The Fuji ECS seat that I use you only need the one arbor in the front of the seat. When I reamed the seat I was reaming the rear so it would be sized to the point of placement that I needed. The arbor is coated and slipped into the front tube of the seat (I use a 1/4" dowel to push the arbor into the front of the seat and indent it about a 1/4" and turn) I do this before I trim the threads. No epoxy is added to the inside of the seat just the outside of the arbor.

(See the upper post)

Hope this helps.

Tight Wraps!    

Thanks ReelMech!

After I get through this once I am thinking the next one will go smoother.  I appreciate the answers to the rookie questions.  I will find a dowel and give it a go.

Thanks

vtbassin,

The FlexCoat arbors have a 1/4" hole so I use the 1/4" dowel, and about a 1/4" from the end of the dowel I roll a good layer of masking tape (6-10 wraps), so that the dowel doesn't slide through the arbor to make the push rod. Once I get the arbor were I want it I just twist the dowel and it comes right out of the arbors hole.

Hope that helped.......

ReelMech,

Here is my first handle I like the way it came out. Thanks for the tips. I am on to guide prep now. (I know I am slow : if I was getting paid by the hour for this rod it would be very expensive ;D)

That didn't work I will try again later.

I need to work on resizing skills

vtbassin,

For the first grip, that is a good looking grip.  Take your time when doing guide prepping don't take off to much and try real hard to get a good ramp for the wrapping threads to go up when wrapping your guides.

I did sell the rod that is posted here, but I will not be able to finish illustrating it because I have a quick delivery time (this weekend), but when the rod is done I will take some pics of it and post them here.

Side note:

The best and most user friendly program I have found for re-sizing your images is Paint Shop Pro.

Tight Wraps.........

Looks like vtbassin has caught the bug! ;D

My only warning-  There is no treatment for this!  ...lol

Flechero,

You are right on about the bug.  I have the components for two spinning rods waiting to be started ;D  after I finish this spinnerbait rod.

Keith,

Here are the final shots that I got while the customer was waiting to pick the rod up.

This shot shows the transition of the bumper spiral wrap is to the right. the guides were wrapped with Goudbrod #206 NCP Garnet, it has a single silver inlay thread, and fine silver glitter added to the finish......Sorry we didn't have time to shot a guide wrap, but it is the same as I have on my site.

This shot shows the butt section completed. I used the exotic laguna burl, here it has been sealed, the Fuji ECS seat with no for grip and my epoxy ramp.

This shot shows the marbling job done to the split section. It was underwrapped with NCP #206 Garnet, then the marbling is white, black, and silver. It then turned in the dryer for 8 hrs and then the decals were added and the finish coat was done.

Well that is it for this rod, I wish I had had more time to shot the rod but the customer was in a hurry.

Tight Wraps and Tight Lines!  

ReelMech,

That rod is a work of art!!  I am sure whoever bought it will be trying to dicide if they want to fish with it or just display it.

Thanks again for all the tips.  I was test casting mine and all the tracks in the snow remind me of frog fishing on a thick matt.  Although not as nice looking as your art work I think it is going to cast and fish well.

First day of spring tomorrow 8-)

vtbassin,

Thank you for those kind words. The angler picked it up and was ready to take it to his private pond and fish it hard. I told him when he catches his P B from the pond that I wanted pic's, so I'm hoping he gets a good one.

I was really bummed that I couldn't shoot pics of the final processes on that rod but maybe I can shot another one this summer.

I was test casting mine and all the tracks in the snow remind me of frog fishing on a thick matt.  Although not as nice looking as your art work I think it is going to cast and fish well.

The casting of a rod is the most important, the looks don't mean anything to the fish, and if you make it to fancy the angler is spending to much time looking at the bling factor and possibly missing fish.....LOL. I don't normally build anything over basic colors and maybe the marbling.

Tight Wraps and Tight Lines!    

Reelmech,

I guess we have both been working a little more than posting!  

The rod looks great!  I would have loved to see a step by step wrapping post but I certainly understand being too busy!!  (see the next paragraph!)  Is that the 3C66MHF from the other posts?  Was that the same customer from the original order?  What did you end up with as far as number and size of guides?  Looks like about a 10 butt and 7 bumper?  Also, I know I have asked before but do you use the TAP pigments for marbling?  I really do want to try it on one of my rods.

While my wife's remodel job is proving to be WAY more than first agreed upon (the entire bathroom was gutted to the studs, including rewiring for different lighting, new ceramic tile, etc.) I am taking advantage of "garage trips" for tools and other work...  I have finished the grips for the 5C70HF and glued up the handle on an All Star BAT827 rod.  I had a friend help me put the new ceiling in the bathroom yesterday and we managed to turn down 2 sets of grips and got one of his handles glued up.  

Sleep?  What's that?!?!?!  ...lol

flechero,

The rod looks great!  I would have loved to see a step by step wrapping post but I certainly understand being too busy!!

yeah, I haven't really seen the light of day since early Nov......

Is that the 3C66MHF from the other posts?

Yeah the very same one.

Was that the same customer from the original order?

Nope had the blank with just the grip hanging on a hook, and another one of my reel customers came in looking for a 6'6" med hvy, I showed him that rod and he paid for it right then and there.....

What did you end up with as far as number and size of guides?  Looks like about a 10 butt and 7 bumper?

There are 10 total with the tip. The stripper is a BSVLG (Hardloy) #10, the bumper is a BLG (Hardloy) #6, the rest out to the tip are BLG (Hardloy) #5.5... The tip is a BLLG-7 5.5.... ;D

Also, I know I have asked before but do you use the TAP pigments for marbling?  I really do want to try it on one of my rods.

For the marbling on that rod I used the tap white and black pigments, and used the testors silver enamel pigment for that color.

While my wife's remodel job is proving to be WAY more than first agreed upon

Yeah I hear that, my boss is the same way. I used building a theater in my basement for all of my special tool purchases..... 8-)

Tight Wraps and Tight Lines!