^{i was thinking of building my own spinning rod and i was looking through the mud hole catalog and i have a question about the skeleton reel seats is there anyway i can have the top of the blank a little more covered kinda like the bps carbonlite rod becuase thats the only thing ive been hearing is with the skeleton reel seat for spinning rods is the wrist issues so i was wondering is there anyway i could put something in between the reel seat so i can have some of the blank covered and only have a small area covered? like a full arbor or something? any tips suggestions would be great thanks}

I don't see any wrist issue with a skeleton seat personally but you can use something like this...

 

http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building/Graphite_2/GBS-Blank-Exposed-Spinning-Reel-Seats

I think I get what your saying. You want something in between the two parts of the seat? You can use cork, Eva, graphite, wood basically anything you want. I would suggest making it easy and extremely comfortable for your self and use a Tennessee grip.

I think I get what your saying. You want something in between the two parts of the seat? You can use cork, Eva, graphite, wood basically anything you want. I would suggest making it easy and extremely comfortable for your self and use a Tennessee grip.

If you're filling in a split seat just use an actual full reel seat. The one pictured above, and the Aero comfort are nice but a standard 18mm seat on a spinning rod is comfortable too.

I agree with DVT re filling in between the skeleton parts.  What you are doing is making a conventional reel seat very difficult.  The Pac Bay contour seat suggested is comfortable due to the swell, and unlike the Aero seat,  is uplocking which for most anglers keeps the seat threads out of contact with the hands.  Which is good, IMHO.  Tennessee seats, if done really well, are good for comfort and will lock the reel on well.  But if not done exactly right, will not hold the reel as securely as other seats.   Here is another way to skin the cat which works very well for comfort, sensitivity, and beauty.

 

http://clients.criticalimpact.com/newsletter/newslettercontentshow1.cfm?contentid=9599&id=1069

 

I suggest Riley foam or Pac Bay shims for the ramps.  They can be machined by inserting a snug fitting drill bit into the bore and turning them on a drill press.  No lathe is needed.  If you fit them properly to the blank you won't even need a winding check- a small filet of epoxy will suffice.

Neat idea Mick, and nicely realized. I'm gonna have to experiment with that.