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Any Ideas How To Fix This?

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I recently purchased a 1988 Stratos 201 Pro. The previous owner installed a recessed tray for the foot controlled trolling motor. The problem is, it's only 5 inches from the seat post. I have a setback pole, but I'm a bigger guy and don't feel completely comfortable using it, I'd rather use the straight pole. The problem is the pedal is too close and I can't really use the control. I pulled the tray out and the deck is about 1" thick. I'm thinking of cutting about 4" from the fron of the tray and reattaching it to the rear and sliding the tray forward. I'm guessing I'll have to support it with some bracing from below.

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  • Super User

They make accessory recessed trays as well. I'd do just like you said and slide it forward, add in a brace the the back side, the put an accessory tray behind that.

  • Super User

Sounds like you could do that.  To support the piece you cut out and move to the back of the opening, secure a piece of  3/4" plywood to the underside of the deck.  Make sure you have a minimum of two to three inches of overlap on the sides and back.  Then screw the piece you cut out at the front to the piece you just fastened to the underside of the deck.

 

When you cut out the piece in the front, do it carefully with a saber saw and a thin blade, taking care not to damage the carpet on top.  When you move that piece to the back, it will have the carpet on it.  There might be a small line visible at the outline of the carpet.  Hopefully you can live with that.

 

Or if the existing carpet is worn, now might be a good time to replace it and eliminate the gap on the sides and back of your filler piece.

  • Super User

Add to what Rhino said, screw & glue it in place!

  • Author

Thanks for the input!!!

  • Super User

And use marine grade plywood and stainless steel screws (so they don't rust) as well as sealing the wood it before you install it.  Atleast I would. 

  • Super User

I recently purchased a 1988 Stratos 201 Pro. The previous owner installed a recessed tray for the foot controlled trolling motor. The problem is, it's only 5 inches from the seat post. I have a setback pole, but I'm a bigger guy and don't feel completely comfortable using it, I'd rather use the straight pole. The problem is the pedal is too close and I can't really use the control. I pulled the tray out and the deck is about 1" thick. I'm thinking of cutting about 4" from the fron of the tray and reattaching it to the rear and sliding the tray forward. I'm guessing I'll have to support it with some bracing from below.

 

I'm a big guy too and I use the seat offset. It works very well and would be a lot easier than moving the foot pedal tray. Is this the type you are using now?

 

2cxxo48.jpg

  • Super User

Regarding marine grade plywood, the only difference between marine grade plywood and the typical exterior grade plywoods is that marine plywood has no voids in the core.  This is important in boats because voids in the wrong area can collapse and compromise the structure.

 

However, there is a readily available product that can be found in Home Depot or Lowes, Baltic birch plywood.  It is in fact more stable than the typical marine grade plywood because it has more layers per thickness and it also has no voids in the core layers.

 

It comes in 5' X 5' panels, but Home Depot and Lowes sell it in smaller pieces.

 

baltic_birch_plywood_edge-4tsml.jpg

 

The rod holder in my paddling canoe is made with Baltic birch plywood.  It's approximately 3/8" thick, and has many layers which prevent it from warping or cupping.

 

DSC03360.jpg

  • Author

I'm a big guy too and I use the seat offset. It works very well and would be a lot easier than moving the foot pedal tray. Is this the type you are using now?

 

2cxxo48.jpg

This is what I have that came with the boat.

 

 

23-0061214.jpg

  • Super User

I've used the curved post too and bent 2 of them. That's why I'm using the offset now. Much sturdier.

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