was wondering if most rodbuilders can modify a 7.5 guide tip to fit a blank with a size 8 , blank tip ??? want to know this cause i'm gonna have a rod made that has a size 8 tip , but the guide tip i want to use only goes up to size 7.5 . please , all you guys that build rods can you give me some feedback , thanks

It's unlikely that you can get it to go a full size but we each have little tools and tricks to try. I have flared the tubes and gained some additional diameter a few times... combine that with a few thousandths from tip prep and you might get there but it's no gaurantee. Check with your builder to see if he has any options or tricks he can try.

The safest thing is to use a different tip... maybe there is a tip that would be an upgrade that you can use.

The other thing to consider is that when they list a blank- it's often not correct... (or was only correct for the sample they measured) since the blanks vary a bit you might have a size in either direction of the posted diameter. So you might have to go up 2 sizes or you might just be ok.   Without the specific blank in hand, you just can't know.

What about the use of a single foot guide in the size you want wrapped to the tip instead of a tube tip top?

Just a thought.....

Tight Wraps!!! 

I've done what David suggested and it works great.

  I've also used micro tops and split the tube bodies, but that gets a bit more complicated to do "neatly".

I've done what David suggested and it works great.

I've also used micro tops and split the tube bodies, but that gets a bit more complicated to do "neatly".

that is exactly what my dilema is , for micro guide tops , the biggest tip top is a size 7.5 and the blank i'm gonna have made has a size 8 tip i have heard of builders splitting the tube and with good wrapping , it will work out ok and be neat . i am gonna have all black thread wraps on the guides so i hope it can come out nice and still be strong ... can anyone post a pic or two of a split tip top and what it looks like wrapped , if that is not too much to ask ;D thanks ...

Question - what is the ring size you are trying to use?  Are you looking at micro?  IF so, what size line will you be using?  The reason I ask is that if you will be using say a 15lb or higher mono not sure I would use a micro top due to constriction and line memory leaving the tip.  The smallest ring I will use on "heavy mono" builds is #5.

Braid or fluoro in the smaller dia's should be alright.

Just a thought.

Question - what is the ring size you are trying to use? Are you looking at micro? IF so, what size line will you be using? The reason I ask is that if you will be using say a 15lb or higher mono not sure I would use a micro top due to constriction and line memory leaving the tip. The smallest ring I will use on "heavy mono" builds is #5.

Braid or fluoro in the smaller dia's should be alright.

Just a thought.

yes they are microguides , i'm gonna use size 4's for the tip top and bottom guides , i have talked to a few people that say that they should not be a problem . i will be using 25 and 30 lb. test on this rod . as for brand of line , i will be using IZORLINE XXX or if i can get ahold of a bulk spool of GAMMA copoly .so i think that line will work good with these guides . opinions on this ??? please ??

For me, I would be very leery of putting 25-30 lb co-poly through a #4 tip-top ring.  should be fine on the running guides but if I were building this I would be inclined to install a #5, maybe even a #6, tip-top at that line weight.

The problem is the memory in the line.  The co-poly while not as much memory as mono but will still have some that will cause constriction when it goes through the tip-top and bends.   What happens is that the larger dia lines takes an outward (or inward if pointing the tip down)  when it bends through the tip.  You will notice it most when casting and retrieving.  When casting, if there is any bend in the line (ie, the rod is not pointed directly at the line of flight) the line will rub on the ring or blank or both if there is a sharp enough bend.  When retrieving you will notice a grinding or rubbing feel/sound.

Once again, for me, I would be installing no smaller than a #5 tip-top.  If you (customer) were insistent upon the micro tip-top (which you could as it is your rod) I would really want to test cast with your *exact* setup before I committed to that small of a ring with that large of a line.

I only put micro tops on rods/users that will not go over 15 lb line.  IMHO, anything over that *might* cause problems - not always - but the odds are in favor that it will.

Eddie

I've done what David suggested and it works great.

I've also used micro tops and split the tube bodies, but that gets a bit more complicated to do "neatly".

that is exactly what my dilema is , for micro guide tops , the biggest tip top is a size 7.5 and the blank i'm gonna have made has a size 8 tip i have heard of builders splitting the tube and with good wrapping , it will work out ok and be neat . i am gonna have all black thread wraps on the guides so i hope it can come out nice and still be strong ... can anyone post a pic or two of a split tip top and what it looks like wrapped , if that is not too much to ask ;D thanks ...

  Sorry about not replying back, I missed your post.  I don't have a pic readily available, but if you head over to rodbuilding.org  you should be able to find one with little problem.  There are several guys who split micro tops for the exact purposes your describing.

  I personally don't go any smaller/larger than 4mm/5mm on my tips.

I didn't realize how intricate rod building actually was

I've done what David suggested and it works great.

I've also used micro tops and split the tube bodies, but that gets a bit more complicated to do "neatly".

that is exactly what my dilema is , for micro guide tops , the biggest tip top is a size 7.5 and the blank i'm gonna have made has a size 8 tip i have heard of builders splitting the tube and with good wrapping , it will work out ok and be neat . i am gonna have all black thread wraps on the guides so i hope it can come out nice and still be strong ... can anyone post a pic or two of a split tip top and what it looks like wrapped , if that is not too much to ask ;D thanks ...

Sorry about not replying back, I missed your post. I don't have a pic readily available, but if you head over to rodbuilding.org you should be able to find one with little problem. There are several guys who split micro tops for the exact purposes your describing.

I personally don't go any smaller/larger than 4mm/5mm on my tips.

the tip top i'm looking at has a size 4 ring with a size 7.5 tube . i really hope this will work  any how , here is the picture of it ( from C&M CUSTOM TACKLE SUPPLY) ( the one on the left)

I think that should work fine, I've used the exact same tip.  You can take an exacto knife and carefully wiggle it slowly up the tube body and the body will easily split open. I'd suggest holding the tip with something, I normally use a set of taped up electrical pliers so I don't scratch/damage anything.

  I take a dremel tool and smooth any burrs along the split. After fitting the tip, I typically apply a very small amount of epoxy.  You can wrap it if it you wish, but if the split/fit is very close you can paint it. 

  If done properly, you won't be able to tell the tip was ever split.

I think that should work fine, I've used the exact same tip. You can take an exacto knife and carefully wiggle it slowly up the tube body and the body will easily split open. I'd suggest holding the tip with something, I normally use a set of taped up electrical pliers so I don't scratch/damage anything.

I take a dremel tool and smooth any burrs along the split. After fitting the tip, I typically apply a very small amount of epoxy. You can wrap it if it you wish, but if the split/fit is very close you can paint it.

If done properly, you won't be able to tell the tip was ever split.

you have given me hope that this rod will be the ultimate swimbait rod , check your PM .