what are you guys using for primer?

i have a new can of Krylon primer (well, it was new when i bought it along w/ my other airbrush paints, its about 75% gone now). i just bought this with the rest of my airbrush paints, so its not like its been sitting out in the garage for years before i decided to use it. i keep it indoors.

i absolutely hate the stuff. it comes out in a spattery spray, doesn't cover up colors underneath very well, its pretty runny when its on the bait. its tricky to get a good primer coat with it. i just hate everything about it.

how necessary is a primer? i was thinking if i can't find a better primer i might just go without... or is that a no-go?

First I use this bulldog spray adhesive, I would say on baits primer isnt all that important, to me at least.  It all depends how you are spraying the can primer onto your baits, I always use short strokes and constantly shake the can. Little short bursts maybe two or three at a time, let it dry and then do it again until the desired coverage is achieved. Let it dry all the way then spray the adhesive and then paint.

I use an epoxy primer. It is a high build. I bought it from an automotive refinishing store. It is pricey, about $16 for a large rattle can, but the stuff is pretty awesome.

Here's what I use: http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=402. Actually most of the time I don't use primer; I just scuff-sand the bait and paint it. I do use primer under fluorescent paint.

I've been using Kilz in the spray can. Covers well and seems to take paint well.

I use an epoxy primer. It is a high build. I bought it from an automotive refinishing store. It is pricey, about $16 for a large rattle can, but the stuff is pretty awesome.

What exactly are you using, fourbizz?

I've been using a SEM Flexible Primer/Surfacer - which is a high-solids 1-part primer (aerosol can) designed for adhering to automotive plastics.

I've wanted to try one of the epoxy primers but I can't ever find it in 1-part aerosol. 

so is primer necessary?

so is primer necessary?

That depends on what you're starting with.

I use a primer on the baits I make because I need a sandable "surfacer" to get a nice, smooth surface to start painting on. The raw material doesn't provide a smooth enough surface to immediately start color basecoating on.

You use a primer/surfacer under these conditions because they have a high "solids" content that quickly builds up on the material, and is also sandable - - as opposed to your regular paint, which lays down very thinly and can only be sanded very delicately.

If you're repainting, that smooth surface is usually already there (factory finish), you don't really need primer.

I've never had to prime any of the repaints I've done. Just scuffed and cleaned the existing finish, and took off with my color basecoats. What you might find is that a primer gets coverage much faster than your solid color basecoats.....a lot of guys see enough advantage in this to use a primer just for that reason - - quickly getting a solid color base.

Adhesion promoter is a different animal. You'll hear references to Bulldog Adhesion Promoter a lot. This was designed to help automotive paints adhere to flexible plastic parts (like bumpers).

If you do choose to lay this down, it should be your FIRST coat. It's designed for providing grip to plastic, and that's what it should be sprayed on.

Spray it VERY THINLY. The times I've used it, I've actually sprayed it on the lure and immediately wiped the lure off. Do not apply it in multiple coats.....THIN!!

Then you need to get your paint down shortly after it dries....there is a window for it to work, and after that window, it may actually prove to have the opposite effect it was intended for.

The use of Bulldog is widely talked about in custom auto-paint forums - - it appears to be a decent product as long as it is applied correctly.

I've done lures with it and without it, and haven't had problems either way. I think it's more important to make sure the lure is properly prepped and clean of all oils than it is to use Bulldog or adhesion promoters.  It's an added step and expense that I usually don't mess with anymore. 

okay gotcha.

I sand the lure down then hit it with 2 coats of white lacquer paint!

I sand the lure down then hit it with 2 coats of white lacquer paint!

I sand the lure down then hit it with 2 coats of white lacquer paint!

As so many other have discovered rattle can paints are in an abundance of colors, it dries quick and they are dirt cheap. The problem is they just don't spray very good. They either spit globs or you over apply and end up with runs. I have always wanted to paint flames on a hydroplane boat I built, but the cost of automotive paint was outragous. I ended up buying Rustoleum rattle cans and tried painting them, but I couldn't keep the can from spitting or get the fading I desired. Long story short I ended up spraying the rattle can into a funnel and let the paint drip into my HVLP touchup gun and it worked great . If your having issue with your rattle can paint job you may want to consider picking up a cheap HVLP touchup spray gun of airbrush and give it a try.

As so many other have discovered rattle can paints are in an abundance of colors, it dries quick and they are dirt cheap. The problem is they just don't spray very good. They either spit globs or you over apply and end up with runs. I have always wanted to paint flames on a hydroplane boat I built, but the cost of automotive paint was outragous. I ended up buying Rustoleum rattle cans and tried painting them, but I couldn't keep the can from spitting or get the fading I desired. Long story short I ended up spraying the rattle can into a funnel and let the paint drip into my HVLP touchup gun and it worked great . If your having issue with your rattle can paint job you may want to consider picking up a cheap HVLP touchup spray gun of airbrush and give it a try.

pretty good tip! does the spraypaint need to be thinned?

No you won't have to thin it at all. It sprays really nice.