Hey again everyone,

*Edited*

Im trying to figure guides out for a micro guide spiral wrap. I changed my questions a bit cause i found some of my answers.

Fuji recommends using 2 BKBAG guides for the stressed area of the rod, so that makes sense to me now.  The question that follows that would be, do these need to come directly after the stripper, as transition guides? Or do the need to come after the transition and be used as runners?

Does either of these configurations seem correct?
size 6 BKWAG stripper > size 5.5 BKTAG transition > size 5 BKTAG transition > 2 - size 4.5 BKBAG runners > size 4.5 BKTAG runners > size 4.5 BFCAT tiptop  

size 6 BKWAG stripper > size 5.5 BKBAG transition > size 5 BKBAG transition > size 4.5 BKTAG runners > size 4.5 BFCAT tiptop  

Should i go with a single foot stripper potentially?

lots of questions, i know, but i have done searches and i am having a hard time finding much in depth info on specific guides.

Thanks again folks,

Brandon

 

P.s. sorry dvt for not fully understanding some of your pm's to me, im still new to this and some of what ya said went over my head, to be honest.

I would not use a single foot guide for the stripper.  The reason for the BKWAG, the "W," is for proper height.  I'd stick with it to retain what Fuji recommends.  Either of your proposals will work.  If it's a heavy duty kink of rod, more belly guides, if light duty, fewer.  It's not critical to anything but taking the stress in the high stress area.

I forgot you are making a spiral.  If you do a simple spiral with the second guide at 90 degrees it will be loaded directly into the rod, no side load.  The belly guide will be ideal; you can even bend it toward the blank to lower it if you want.  If you are doing other spiral systems, I'll let others comment on those.  Simple spiral is easy, casts well, with no other issues like line stacking to one side of the reel.

The spiral can go either right or left.  Most choose the direction needed to keep the second guide up when the reel handles are up when the rod is laid on the boat deck.

The transition guides don't need to be belly guides because they're not supposed to be under load but it won't hurt. Your basic idea is sound. 

Alright, that makes sense to me, just double checking. Thanks everyone for the help, once again!

~Brandon

Question for DVT, the mid-rod guides, the 2-3 in front of the two or three transition guides, are in the mid-section of the rod.  Isn't this where the loading on the guides will be max?  That is the area that Fuji recommends the KB's for.  I also notice when stress testing a conventional casting rod that if guides rotate during the testing, it is always the mid-rod guides that do so.  thanks, Mick

That's my understanding. I use  a couple belly guides right after the stripper. I lay out my spiral wraps so the transition guides just keep the line off the blank not part of the actual guide train. It's a little harder to accomplish with a slow or revolver wrap.