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Breaking in a new motor....?

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Heyas,

I picked up my boat today with the new 50 2S Merc (On aTriton 1650SC)

Carbuerated with Oil injection \ I am being told these newer 2S engines are 30% more fuel efficient then their predecessors. Also they are saying they have much more acceptable emmissions then the older model 2S.

For break in,

The dealer is telling me to shoot out of the hole as I always would, but only out of the hole. Planing off and running at steady speed. But to not take it further then 1/2 WOT for 2 hours, running at variable RPM's for those 2 hours, then 2 hours of variable RPM's not to exceed 3/4 WOT. After 4 hours like this he says a WOT is fine. The motor will be broken in.?. :-/

Not that I think I will find myself ready for the WOT, I believe this lil boat is gonna be a missile!

I'm sure I will be nervous, I had a 9.9 on. (it is being converted to a pro kicker) 8-) 8-) 8-)

I sank a load of cash into this 50 and surely do not want to trash it or rob it of future performance for lack of a correct break in.

Can I get a lil scool gentlemen?

Way2Slow

I know this has been asked already, but I don't see myself affording someone to tune or set me up, is there refrence material you can link up?

TY :D

  • Super User

I break them the way I plan on using them   :D

  • Super User

It might feel like a missile after running a 9.9 but it won't be.  Should make you a very nice combontion though.

First thing, they most likely put you an aluminum prop on it, a high rake stainless will perform much better.  After you get it broke and can see what kind of rpm your turning, then if the finances will let you get you a stainless and use the aluminum as a spare.

A tachometer is a must have item when working on the boats setup.  A water pressure guage is pretty important also, it's kind of a risky business raising motors without knowing what you are doing to the water pressure.  You don't want to get the water pressure to low because you will fry a motor.

A jackplate is usually a pretty good item to gain performance with also.  Most hull benefit greatly from the additional setback, plus it makes life much simpliar when adjusting motor height.

The basic tuning of a setup is nothing more than trial and error and a basic knowlodge of what your doing and paying close attention to whats going on with the boat while trying it out.  There is a lot of seat of the pants feel so wait until you are very comfortable with the feel of the boat and the way the boat reacts to different trim positons before you start working on the setup.  When working on your setup and raising the motor there are some key factors you watch for:

If the motor gains rpm but there is no increase in speed

If the boat starts loosing bow lift

If the water pressure drop below manufactors recommended minimum, this includes in turns.

If any of these start to happen, drop the motor back down 1/2 inch.   Forgot to mention, if you have a jackplate, you are raising it in 1/4" intervals and testing between each adjustment.   If bolted onto the transome, you a limited to the adjustment holes on the motor.  Besure to reseal the bolts everytime if you mess with that.

When you start playing with setback, in the ideal world you will have it so when the motor is at neutral trim the boat has perfect bow lift.  This is not always possible but that's what you are shooting for.  That way all the energy the prop is applying is going into forward motion of the boat, none is being wasted having to lift the bow.

Notice all this keys around the PROP.  Change that and you start off all over again.  That's why I say it's not very likely you will find and  out of the box prop that will give you best performance.  

Also, make sure you do all this with your normal load in the boat.  Does no good to spend a week dialing in a setup and then change it by adding a couple of hundred pounds of gear to the boat.

There is what is refered to as the "sweet spot" for any setup and finding it is what tuning the boat is all about.  That's where the set back and engine height is at it's perfect point to give just the right lift for the prop to give the most forward push and the least amount of drag.  Not enough setback and you have to overtrim the motor to get bow lift.  Too much setback and you can't stop it from porposing.  The deeper the engine is in the water, the more drag it creates, not deep enough and the water intakes will suck in air and drop your water pressure or your prop will suck in surface air and cause various degrees of cavitation.

As for breakin.  First two hours at variable rpm between 2,500 and 3,500, no stready speeds for more than 30 seconds the first 1/2 hour of so.  After the first 1/2 hour you can hold it pretty steady at 3,000 - 3,500.   The next hour keep it below 4,500.  The next hour keep it below 5,000.   The next hour make short runs of less than 45 seconds at WOT, backing off to about 4,500 for a couple of minutes after the WOT run.  The next hour I start making longer WOT runs so by the end of that I'm making runs of two or three minutes.  Then I pretty much run it the way I want to.

Dave give me a call when the s.s. minow is broke in then we'll see ir it ready for the bigdog test. Just kidding bud.. Call me when ready always able to fish with a bud. ;D

  • Author

Thank You for the info Catt and WayTooSlow!

As of rt now I only have a fuel guage in her, lol, makes no sense cause you can turn your head and see if it is low on fuel. ::o

Harness carries any wiring for guages so I can have a couple added.

I was thinking tach and oil pressure but I am new to this game so I will consider and ask about a water pressure guage when I take it back for the rest of the parts this week. I have no jack plate!

I am having some upgrades added but parts are a wee prob, I think maybe the guys at the shop are rt when they say that the warehouses have mis judged the economy, as guys are still buying motors and what not strong in spite of rising fuel cost.

They got the 50 on and lemme take her to fish till the other parts are in, which include a high performance SS prop. They put an aluminum on for the time being, so I believe I'll hold off on any fine tuning till it is installed and just concentrate on breaking her in this weekend.

And yesser I understand that I need to be loaded like always when I do tune! :D

Thanks for the help!!!!

Heh, CLTodd, you KNOW your going fishing just as soon as you can get legal over here.

24 bucks I think for you, Mo wants 40 for a non res yr long, but no biggie, I'll grab one when I go down to RB's to pick up the utility trailer!

Psssst, put some steel leaders in your box, the strip pits have a nice Musky population! ;):)

Safe Weekend to ALL!

  • Author

O M GOODNESS!

WOW I am so glad I bought this 50.

Man I can't wait to see WOT!!!!!

Runs great. Got an hour and 45 on it break in today, takin her out again in the mornin.

Thanx for the help!!!

good morning....

my dealer added oil to my first tank of gas when i picked it up at the dealership.(hope yours did too), told me to run assorted rpm's till the tank was less than a quarter full, however, never longer than about 2-4 minutes at full throttle till the gas was mostly gone..... i read the manual and this is what merc. recommended. i to have the 50 2 st. on a 2007 triton 1650(mossy oak) and it runs right at 35mph on the garmin. started it every morning for over a week for 5-10 min....fires right up now,... ;) . love this little boat, however, my first bass was over 20" and had to bend her to get in the live well. going to cut the divider out with a torch(welded),,,,,the salesman said it was to keep water from sloshing around while you are running, well, when i catch a big one, i can handle water on the floor,since it an all aluminum boat ;D. BTW, i caught her is about 1-2 ft. of water, where i could never put a big glass boat :D

good luck,

bluebonnet2

P.S. took a black magic marker and marked 14" and 20" on top of the live well!!!!

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