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Sharkbite

Leak In My Jon Boat

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Hey guys I've been working on my boat getting it ready for next season.  I fixed up my trailer and cleaned the boat.  I then filled it with water and ther are a few slow leaks.  I could see that it was coming out from were the old paint was chipped and cracked. It is only coming from the jointed areas which allows me to beleive that I can re seal it.  I planed on painting it this winter but I want to make sure I get the best seal possible. I am going to pain the inside and out side.  Has anyone gone threw this before? What should I use?  Is primer and paint enough?  Is there a good sealer for Aluminum boats out there?

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Sounds like a job for some JB Weld. Go to your nearest auto parts store and spend the $5 on it. I used it on a 2" hole in a plastic gas tank on a jeep wrangler one time and it held up for years. No leak issues ever. It will adhere to anything. I used some duck tape to help hold in place until it hardened up and worked out great.

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So what is the base material?   Is it Apoxy?  There is no major hole in the vessel just cracks in the paint.  Will this stuff your talking about paint on smoothly?

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Paint is not your problem , you have got cracks in the metal.You are not going to stop the leaks by painting over them.

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Hey Bass Brat its not in the medal it in the joints of the riveted metal metal. Were the peices meet the rest of the boat I see tiny cracks in the paint along the seems and a very slow leak.  I think I can seal it but want to know what works best got any thing I could use.

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Hey guys I looked for this JB Weld and found a bunch of different products made by them.  Which one should I use?

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    Their original JB Weld product is what I used. It comes in 2 tubes...black and red...squirt an equal mix of red and black on a piece of cardboard and mix together (anything will work, small piece of wood, spoon, etc.). It will turn grey and start to get thick...apply over the area that is leaking on the boat. Let it set for 24 hours and sand down. You won't have a problem painting over it. If you ask any of the workers at the auto parts store, they'll be able to help. It's a very common fix for alot of different things. You can drill holes, pound on it, apply it to plastics, metal, fiberglass, wood...anything. After you use it for this project you will never forget how great it really works and use it for other things. This stuff dries as hard as metal...Keep that in mind when you're trying to sand it down. Good luck and let us know how it works for you. I have no doubts.

http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php is what I used and I know it will work for you.

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Paint is not your problem , you have got cracks in the metal.You are not going to stop the leaks by painting over them.

Ditto.  missing paint will not cause a leak.  Missing metal will, however.

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STOP!!!

Do not add epoxy or JB weld or anything like that.  Paint is just the good looking stuff on top of the structural stuff.  It cannot have anything to do with a leak or help in the prevention of one.

Sand it away wherever you have a "leaking crack".  Lets get a better look, I highly doubt a weld has cracked before a rivet would flex out.  HIGHLY.  

The issue may be wear, you may be talking about where it has been dragged repeatedly till the metal is so thin the first place is shows is in a thin crack.  Either way, we need to assess the exact damage FIRST before coming up with solutions.  Unless you don't mind repairing it repeatedly throughout the life of the boat.

Sand the paint away from where it is leaking and take a pictures of it. Take pics of it both dry and leaking.

Post them.

(not knocking jB weld, it has lots of great uses but for a flexing aluminum jon boat there are much better solutions.  Permanent ones.  I do keep a tube of the plumbers epoxy-same thing-on the boat in case I need to fix a leak on the water- can be applied wet)

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HEY JOHN LISTEN TO LBH HERE

LBH helped me and Bruce a lot get the 2 MOOKS IN A BOAT into the luxury fishing vessel that it is. YOU HAVE TO GET IT TO BARE METAL FIRST>

 You didn't tell me on the phone that you didnt remove the paint first, I thought you had. Please do what Russ is saying here and post pic's he can then lead you through the process.

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STOP!!!

Do not add epoxy or JB weld or anything like that. Paint is just the good looking stuff on top of the structural stuff. It cannot have anything to do with a leak or help in the prevention of one.

Sand it away wherever you have a "leaking crack". Lets get a better look, I highly doubt a weld has cracked before a rivet would flex out. HIGHLY.

The issue may be wear, you may be talking about where it has been dragged repeatedly till the metal is so thin the first place is shows is in a thin crack. Either way, we need to assess the exact damage FIRST before coming up with solutions. Unless you don't mind repairing it repeatedly throughout the life of the boat.

Sand the paint away from where it is leaking and take a pictures of it. Take pics of it both dry and leaking.

Post them.

(not knocking jB weld, it has lots of great uses but for a flexing aluminum jon boat there are much better solutions. Permanent ones. I do keep a tube of the plumbers epoxy-same thing-on the boat in case I need to fix a leak on the water- can be applied wet)

Ok Thanks LBH I will get to it this weekend and show you the damage and leak.  I couldn't see any damage were it was leaking.  Not even scraps or dents.  What is the best device to sand it down?  Could I use a sanding weel for a drill?  I need to sand it down first before taking the pics corrrect?  What about the inside?  Should I also do the same for that?

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HEY JOHN LISTEN TO LBH HERE

LBH helped me and Bruce a lot get the 2 MOOKS IN A BOAT into the luxury fishing vessel that it is. YOU HAVE TO GET IT TO BARE METAL FIRST>

You didn't tell me on the phone that you didnt remove the paint first, I thought you had. Please do what Russ is saying here and post pic's he can then lead you through the process.

OK Mook I have every intention to follow these guys instructions.  I would like to repair it permanatly.  I just seen a very slow leak coming from a join. I figures I could re seal it but I guess that I need to find the esact problem first like LBH said.

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Sharkbite,

Please listen to Low Budget Hooker.

He is totallly correct.

Now, from what I understand you want to take a leak out of your jon boat.

You want to do this without falling out of the jon boat and into the water.

Opps. Sorry.  Wrong interpertation.

Please do the following:

1.  Follow what LBH says to do.

2.  Visit or call a local BPS Tracker Boat service center and ask them what type of product they would suggest you apply to stop taking a leak out of your jon boat.

3.  See what the guys on this site tell you.

And when taking that leak out of your jon boat please do not fall out of the boat.  ;D   ;D   ;D

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JB Weld = perminant fix. I know I'm probably getting under some guys skin, but the stuff works. Now if there are hairline fractures running in the metal that would be a different story. It's a jon boat and it sounds like he wants to stop a small seam from leaking. I don't think he is wanting to cut out area, get a filler piece, find an aluminum welder to patch it back up, sand, bondo, primer, sand, paint, and put a finish on it. I'm just sayin'...How much time and money do you want to spend on this project? Get a picture on here and lets see the "damage". By the way, plumber's epoxy and JB weld are not the same thing....P.S. I have a degree in vehicle design and I know epxoy won't hold an engine block together unlike JB weld.

2 more products that I have not used that would be worth looking into is:

1) Water Weld http://jbweld.net/products/water.php

2) Marine Weld http://jbweld.net/products/marine.php

Right off thier website:

Description:

Formulated like our industrial-strength J-B WELD cold-weld, MARINE WELD cures as strong as steel, and is water- and weather-proof. It's impervious to saltwater, chemicals, oil, acids, and other corrosive materials, and tolerates extreme temperature fluctuations. Every boat afloat should carry MARINE WELD for quick and permanent repairs from surf board nicks to hull repairs.Use MARINE WELD for:

steel, aluminum, fiberglass, & wood hull repairs

engines

trailers

deck gear

winches & pulleys

propellers & screws

anchors

masts

hot & cold pipes

holding tanks

rivets, bolts, & dowels

surf boards, jet skis, & windsurfers

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Well I will post the pics and we'll see what everyone comes up with.  I am always up for somethig to learn and do.  Just ask Muddy!!!

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John, you might want to use some of these weld products for the hole in your head

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    That's funny...let me know the next time you take a jon boat and exceed a tensile strength of 3960 psi and a flex strength of 7320 psi. Im sure it would hold up if you threw it off a 10 story bridge.  But what do I know.... apparently I'm just setting him up for failure.

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That's funny...let me know the next time you take a jon boat and exceed a tensile strength of 3960 psi and a flex strength of 7320 psi. Im sure it would hold up if you threw it off a 10 story bridge. But what do I know.... apparently I'm just setting him up for failure.

Do not take things= so personal. You haven't been around here long , so let me explain

I became friends with LBH and he helped me get my 11 ft Starcraft where I wanted it.

John is a yong man I introduced to bass fishing, and he is a close friend of mine. He came here and since i was friends with the 2 mentioned and fished with them down atr Lake Fork, I m trying to get him used to asking more than me, since many more know a lot more than you do. Tinsel strength and all that aside I am trying to get John freindly with the same fellas that helped me. Not that you are owed anyexplanation, this is not such a technical issue that it really deseves all this

WHAT THEY ARE ACTUALLY CONCERNED WITH < SINCE JOHN AND I FISH THE SAME LAKE;

At our lake you keep your boat on land, and you must drag the boat along gravel, if you are fishing by yourself

THE LEAK MIGHT NOT BE ASSOCIATED WITH A SMALL HOLE OR A LOOSE RIVET< IT MAY BE A BADLY COMPROMISED AREA OF ALUMINUM, in which case a novice, like John might not realize, by not getting to the metal first. Without any bit of good aluminum to deal with all the JB weld in the world will not help. If you read Russ's post this is what they are talking about AND IT IS SOUND ADVICE>

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    Ok, well when John writes at the very first post "It is only coming from the jointed areas"...that tells me that it isnt coming from the flat aluminum thinning out from running it over gravel. If it is a seam or a joint then yes...JB Weld will work. I too am trying to help John out. That is the point of posting a response to someone needing help. But if he only wanted advice from you and your friends...then maybe he should've called you on the phone. Givin' the info that he provided in his post...I posted a solution (a cheap and simple long lasting one at that) to try and give him a hand.

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Ok, well when John writes at the very first post "It is only coming from the jointed areas"...that tells me that it isnt coming from the flat aluminum thinning out from running it over gravel. If it is a seam or a joint then yes...JB Weld will work. I too am trying to help John out. That is the point of posting a response to someone needing help. But if he only wanted advice from you and your friends...then maybe he should've called you on the phone. Givin' the info that he provided in his post...I posted a solution (a cheap and simple long lasting one at that) to try and give him a hand.

Please don't feel like the guy isn't listening to you , you gave an opinion on what might be wrong and how to fix it. Afew other guys did the same thing , once everything is digested and sorted out he will do what is best for his boat and if it needs the JB weld that's what he'll do.

Every one has an opinion on how to or why so don't take it personally when they don't do what you suggested. This is a great site and your input is very valuable here.

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Hey guys I am really grateful for all you mooks exspeirence and knowlege.  I do want to get a better look at it though and Muddy and LBH and J Grouch will all help me.  So i thank everyone who is trying to help. No need to argue what ever is needed that is what I'll do.  I really hope thats all it needs is a little JB weld but I have to do whats rite for my boat.

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John, you might want to use some of these weld products for the hole in your head

Mook I have many holes in my head were do I start.  I know one place were it will stop all my pain LOL  ;)

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Ok, well when John writes at the very first post "It is only coming from the jointed areas"...that tells me that it isnt coming from the flat aluminum thinning out from running it over gravel. If it is a seam or a joint then yes...JB Weld will work. I too am trying to help John out. That is the point of posting a response to someone needing help. But if he only wanted advice from you and your friends...then maybe he should've called you on the phone. Givin' the info that he provided in his post...I posted a solution (a cheap and simple long lasting one at that) to try and give him a hand.

I am not sure if you guy's know this but I do have my boat on a trailer and I am getting a hitch on my car.  I hope this will mean no pulling over gravel and such.  I hope to paint it and keep it lookin nice and fancy

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Grouch- No need to cut/patch and weld,lol, however, my welder (Matt 50 on this board) will testify that although JB weld is great stuff, it makes welding tricky in that same spot.  The same spots got welded because the JB is only permanent if you rarely use your bot or if you never flex it.  The stuff is like steel, granted, problem is, steel doesn't flex like alum.

I had been using it to keep her afloat for the 1st yr, my original welder (Builds tuna towers for Nortons marina) refused to touch it because of all the "media".  He said we would never get it clean enough.  We did, but it took lots of heat,lol.

Either way, no need for the stuff anymore and the reason I use plumbers epoxy is because it is easier to remove than the JB when you are rerady to weld.

Granted, Sharkbites boat may be a perfect JB candidate, my point was, let's sand it down and see first.

Sharkbite- Sand with any sandpaper from 35 grit to 1200 grit.  150 would be ideal though.  You can use a piece of paper by hand or an apparatus on a drill, doesn't matter, we just want to see the bare metal and the structural damage.

LOTS of pics please, different angles.

;)

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OK LBH I don't think I will have the time till Sund some time.  I will PM you when It is up ok.  I don't really know how to post pics on this site so I'll need to get help which isn't a problem.

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