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Leak In My Jon Boat

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holy s$%^% I like it it looks nice too.  I want to get it I called gerry ang he wasn't in I am waiting to hear back from him.  Do they have brown?  Is that the non color you got? Man I'll just do my hole boat and it should last a while.  So how is the flat jon boat?  Is it really steady?

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I would heed the advice above and only do the parts that are below the waterline.  I'd rather have an extra coat there than a coat on the inside or on the side gunnels.

How much is a quart kit?

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Hey LBH I am going to call again today and place my order.  I will post the quanity and price for you. I was thinkin bout just doing the outside then painting the inside with marine paint. Is that what you use on your boat?

Hey LBH I am going to call again today and place my order. I will post the quanity and price for you. I was thinkin bout just doing the outside then painting the inside with marine paint. Is that what you use on your boat?

The way I did it was outside only, you wont need to go inside. As far as paint I went with Krylons Camo ODG,  I did use a self etching primer first.  For the bottom I added ODG color from Gerry, and I do beleive they have brown. I bought 2 quart kits with color and it ran me about $50 shipped, give or take a couple bux....if I was to doit again I'd order a gallon.  If you have any questions or concerns on appyling this stuff feel free.

My JB is only 10ft so she's not as stable as some of the bigger boys, I'd like to go bigger but that'll have to wait.

  • Author

Yea I just placed my order.  Gerry said I will only need the regular b/c the super slick is for speed.  Since I only have elc trolling speed is no importance to me.  I did order brown color too.  Regular is $16.00 a quart and 2000 super slick is $27.00 a court. He said the regular will be fine for what I need Thanks Bud. Prep he said to rough up the paint that is there now.  He said not to worry about getting it down to bare metal.  Then wipe it down with asatone like you said. Then 1 thin coat first and allow it to tack up then a heavier second coat.  

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http://www.fascoepoxies.com/ ask for Gerry, problem solved.

so is this what everyone agrees on just to put a coat of epoxy? Whch do I use this site you posted has many? Do I need to sand all the old paint? do I still need to replace the rivets?

Sharkbite, its called Steelflex 9X, its a 2 part epoxy that needs mixing, and colors can be added, I had a leaky lil jonboat and with this stuff, well, she leaks no more. Ask for Gerry.

As far as prep work goes just sand the bottom down to bare metal, super easy with a drill and wire brush. wash it, then wipe her down with acetone...

What is the rough cost to do a 12'?

LBH it's coasting me about $50 to do my 12' boat with the color pigment. That is regular not the super slick 2000. If you have a gas motor you might consider .  Gerry told me that it is for speed.  The the super slicl 2000.  Price for the Super is $27.00 a quart then you need to get color and pay for shipping.

Thats great John...I'm glad that there was finally a good solution for you. We are all looking forward to seeing pics of the final product and for you to tell us how it is...Also, make sure to take pics during the whole project... You'll definately refer to them in the future. Looking forward to seeing it.

I'd consider bringing it down to bare metal, the rougher the surface the better the epoxy will stick. Thats what Gerry told me when I started on mine, roughing up the paint is fine but getting rid of it all is much better, it's like you'll be working from a clean slate.

  • Author

really I almost finshed the pre ang I am just roughing it up.  Gerry didn't tell me that.  I think that this will hold pritty well. What if I used a solvent stripper to remover all the old paint?

your call there, I brought it down to bare metal, Gerry told me the same, rough up the old paint and make sure theres nothing lingering about. When I asked him about stripping the boat he informed me that it would be best, but you can do it your way. I didnt mind spending the little extra time to do the job right the first time.

SB- Yes, I used Interlux yacht paint on mine.

I sanded mine with an orbital DA sander, like arcticat but I've since done other boats using a chemical stripper and that is definitely the way to go.  It's much quicker and gets all the nooks and crannies.

**The bottom sands the easiest (All flat surfaces and you aren't all bent over).  If I were just doing the bottom, I would just sand it but if doing the whole boat, strip it.

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What was the problem you said you ran into while doing your second coat?  You also painted over the epoxy I thought I could just use the epoxy and it would be nice.  Thats why I got the color.  I also want to do the inside of the boat.  What is the craolo you used?  I might consider taking it down to metal didi you use a drill brush?  Mine brush dosn't seem to be doing as good of a job as yours.

  • Author
SB- Yes, I used Interlux yacht paint on mine.

I sanded mine with an orbital DA sander, like arcticat but I've since done other boats using a chemical stripper and that is definitely the way to go. It's much quicker and gets all the nooks and crannies.

**The bottom sands the easiest (All flat surfaces and you aren't all bent over). If I were just doing the bottom, I would just sand it but if doing the whole boat, strip it.

Yea I want to do the whole boat.  As you guy's know I am pushed for time now b/c it's getting cold I wanted to have a nice coat on before the winter so when spring gets here I can take him out.  I guess I will take the bottom down to metal. LBH what stripper should I use.  

  • Author
I'd consider bringing it down to bare metal, the rougher the surface the better the epoxy will stick. Thats what Gerry told me when I started on mine, roughing up the paint is fine but getting rid of it all is much better, it's like you'll be working from a clean slate.

Ok I see what you did now.  You brought the bottom down to bare metal and only epoxy that area.  I have leaks all over the transom so I am doing the whole ouside.  How many coats did you put on that area?  Was there any epoxy left over?  I love the inside of the boat so I want you to walk me threw the process of painting that as well.  What if I were to just put carpet on the bottom to hide sound how would I secure it?  My bottom is round not flat.

Might be a little late but riveted boats do flex and wear on the rivets and holes over the years. The boat is still structurally sound I am sure as long as you stop filling it with water while in the trailer (bad idea). A good trick to tighten the rivets up is to GENTLY use a body hammer and dolly on every rivet you can get to BEFORE YOU SEAL IT. Hold the dolly on one side and the hammer in the other (have a friend help where you can't reach both sides). This will put tension back on the rivets and tighten up the seams in the overlapping metal panels.

A great way to seal the inner hull is to use the do it yourself urethane bed liner coatings that are like Rhino-liner, etc. They are normally cheaper then exotic epoxies and are available at most auto part stores. The finish looks good and is bullet proof and slip resistant.

;)

  • Author

wow good Ideas I might check out the bed linner what kind of prep is needed for that?  What is a dolly I never heard of that before?

  • Author
Might be a little late but riveted boats do flex and wear on the rivets and holes over the years. The boat is still structurally sound I am sure as long as you stop filling it with water while in the trailer (bad idea). A good trick to tighten the rivets up is to GENTLY use a body hammer and dolly on every rivet you can get to BEFORE YOU SEAL IT. Hold the dolly on one side and the hammer in the other (have a friend help where you can't reach both sides). This will put tension back on the rivets and tighten up the seams in the overlapping metal panels.

A great way to seal the inner hull is to use the do it yourself urethane bed liner coatings that are like Rhino-liner, etc. They are normally cheaper then exotic epoxies and are available at most auto part stores. The finish looks good and is bullet proof and slip resistant.

;)

I was also thinking about carpet.  Do you know How I would go about that?  There isn't much room to put a platform in the boat I also don't want to add extra weight.  Can I put carpet directly on the aluminum?

  • Author

I've sanded the bottom of the boat

post-13729-130162912814_thumb.jpg

  • Author

Bow Pic

post-13729-130162912831_thumb.jpg

Might be a little late but riveted boats do flex and wear on the rivets and holes over the years.  The boat is still structurally sound I am sure as long as you stop filling it with water while in the trailer (bad idea).  A good trick to tighten the rivets up is to GENTLY use a body hammer and dolly on every rivet you can get to BEFORE YOU SEAL IT.  Hold the dolly on one side and the hammer in the other (have a friend help where you can't reach both sides).  This will put tension back on the rivets and tighten up the seams in the overlapping metal panels.  

A great way to seal the inner hull is to use the do it yourself urethane bed liner coatings that are like Rhino-liner, etc.  They are normally cheaper then exotic epoxies and are available at most auto part stores.  The finish looks good and is bullet proof and slip resistant.

;)

I was also thinking about carpet.  Do you know How I would go about that?  There isn't much room to put a platform in the boat I also don't want to add extra weight.  Can I put carpet directly on the aluminum?

No.  You build floorboards like on mine and carpet those.  Make them so they can be lifted out for cleaning.  Seal the wood before gluing the carpet to it. (urethane is fine)  

Carpet can be bought at Lowes or Home depot.  indoor/outdoor rubber backed.  

Hull looks good,...getting there!  

Looks good, with 2 quarts you shoud have enuff to do the bottom nicely. Make sure you wash that hull down and then if you can wipe it down with acetone and your ready for step #2

  • Super User

Yo, John and do not forget one of these!

post-16127-130162912839_thumb.jpg

  • Author
Yo, John and do not forget one of these!

Yea Mook I got them there floaty things

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