Hello from Japan! Can i have your advice about my doubts on fishing line size and type for ML baitcast rod, please?

Mostly i am fishing at narrow rivers from bank with light (~1/4oz - 4/9oz) and shallow (2.5m MAX) crankbaits and aim black bass, rarely sea bass.

Setup:

- 6'2" Shimano Bass one XT 162ML. At the specification it says: lure weight: 5-14g, nylon line: 8-16lb

- Shimano 2019 SLX MGL 70. Specification says about line size: 12-100、14-90、16-80

 

Because it's my first baitcaster, as well as my 3rd week of fishing experience, i decided to start from a mono line, based on a feedback from older topics here.

Most people mentioned #12 mono line with a M or MH rods as a good start, but i never seen someone had a talk about ML rods.

 

And my questions is:
1. With a ML rod and mono line, will it be not too soft to feel a fish bite or kick from obstacle?

2. Not a better idea to consider different fishing line type for ML rod or i am overthinking?

3. What a golden middle line size for this setup and purpose? #12 is not a too heavy for light crankbaits?

 

 

 

   Good Morning, @GGzet! 

 

   1. A ML rod and mono line are not too soft to feel a bite. Feeling a fish bite or a "bump" is not in the rod and line, it's in the fisherman's hands and his attention. I use a fiberglass rod and have good luck. ALSO: a ML rod will usually (not always) be more sensitive than a M or MH rod.

 

   2. Yes, you're overthinking. Just go out and fish. Learn and have fun!

 

   3. Because you're in Japan, I must assume you mean 12 lb. line on the Japanese rating system. That would be 10 lb. line rating here, and I think that's almost perfect. I have used 8 lb. line, but I knew I was pushing my luck, and I was very careful. I use a 70-size reel (Curado 70XG) and it works very well with .28mm diameter line.

 

   If this is your 3rd week of using a baitcasting reel, I would stay with nylon monofilament. It handles easier and is more predictable.

 

 

   Good luck!     jj

 

  

21 minutes ago, jimmyjoe said:

   Good Morning, @GGzet! 

 

   1. A ML rod and mono line are not too soft to feel a bite. Feeling a fish bite or a "bump" is not in the rod and line, it's in the fisherman's hands and his attention. I use a fiberglass rod and have good luck. ALSO: a ML rod will usually (not always) be more sensitive than a M or MH rod.

 

   2. Yes, you're overthinking. Just go out and fish. Learn and have fun!

 

   3. Because you're in Japan, I must assume you mean 12 lb. line on the Japanese rating system. That would be 10 lb. line rating here, and I think that's almost perfect. I have used 8 lb. line, but I knew I was pushing my luck, and I was very careful. I use a 70-size reel (Curado 70XG) and it works very well with .28mm diameter line.

 

   If this is your 3rd week of using a baitcasting reel, I would stay with nylon monofilament. It handles easier and is more predictable.

 

 

   Good luck!     jj

 

  

That's a huge help for me, thanks a lot!
Right, it's a 12lb*, not a #12 one. 

I have a 6'6 ML spinning setup that I use 10lb braid as the main line to a 12lb fluorocarbon leader. Would work well for your setup too. 

2 hours ago, Luke Barnes said:

I have a 6'6 ML spinning setup that I use 10lb braid as the main line to a 12lb fluorocarbon leader. Would work well for your setup too. 

That's a great setup for spinning but too skinny for bc, especially someone new at it.

2 hours ago, Luke Barnes said:

I have a 6'6 ML spinning setup that I use 10lb braid as the main line to a 12lb fluorocarbon leader. Would work well for your setup too. 

 

6 minutes ago, The Bassman said:

That's a great setup for spinning but too skinny for bc, especially someone new at it.

Ya - 10# braid on a BC is just asking for bird-nests and dig-ins - which will result in bird-nests. I'd go with straight 12# mono/FC/hybrid at minimum. If you must use braid - 20# minimum to maybe an 8#-10# leader.

Line size on the reel is more to let you know its capacity.  You can use pretty much any line size you want on it.  None of my casting reels mention 8# line, but most of my reels on M and ML rods carry that size line.  I know nothing about Japanese line ratings.  12# mono/co-polymers go on my MH rods.

 

I wasn't thinking about it before, but I have to agree with Bassman.  Learning to use a baitcast reel with light lures (1/4 oz.) is not a good way to learn.  Since that rod is what you have to use then stick with lures on the high side to start out.  3/8 oz. (10.6g) or a bit more.  A compact lure will also help.

1 hour ago, BaitFinesse said:

I have a number of ML casting rods and run anything from 10# Sniper to 20# braid.  A PE 2.0 or 3.0 would be fine as far as braids go.  The shallow depth large arbor spools do well with preventing small diameter PE line from "digging in" into the line beneath.  THE SLX MGL has such a spool.  I'd opt for PE 2.0 myself which is roughly a US 20# braid.  Go with an 8 carrier RE/braid if you can.  

8# Big Game is another option and cheap if you can get it shipped cheap enough to Japan.  I use it as leader material on my 20# braid ML casting setups.  I just have a lot of faith in the stuff.  I used to use 10# Sniper for leader to my braid but it didn't hold up as well as Big Game.  

Thanks for the advice!

Braid sounds exiting to try, but still not sure for what style and bait types it suits mostly. 
But definitly will have a look on it after some practice with mono.

I run 6lb line on my ML XF rods for throwing 1/8oz etc with BFS spools. I use 8LB on ML Fast for Texas rigged lizards, small NEDs etc and 10Lb for throwing 1/4-3/8 oz stuff on ML Med action off of ZPI "M" spool. All Flouro.

 

Works pretty well for me.

I use .20mm diameter fluorocarbon on my ML casting rod

Just to clarify - recieved rod, reel and 12lb (.28mm) line and had first fishing session with a baitcaster yesterday. So far everything feels so great. But spend few hours to get used for casting. Compare with a spinning reel, can't throw a crank far, but practice makes perfect. Approximately (just on my feelings) ~20m is my limit now with a stong side and back throw and 3/8oz crank. Not a huge difference for a narrow river though. Accuracy > distande, maybe.

 

Edited May 6, 20206 yr by GGzet

35 minutes ago, BaitFinesse said:

You'll get better over time.  I'm guessing you have your spool tension really tight for a slow drop?

Watched a ton of videos about baitcast reel preparation and, based on it, slowly dropping down. 

At the same time centrifugal breakers - 2/4 ON, outside one (not sure how to call them right) - 5/10.

Have no problems with a backlash's at all and thinking to try turn off one centrifugal breaker tomorrow. 

Actually i like to use my finger for controlling it. But overall feels like i need more distance sometimes. Due to quarantine can't have a ride to narrow river, fishing at pretty wide one now. 

 

   @GGzet :

 

   When you're learning the capabilities of an adjustable reel as well as your own capabilities (which will change and improve with time) it is best to follow a logical method that you don't change. This gives you a solid reference point to use.

   You said you have 2 of the brake blocks on and two off. You have the exterior adjustment on #5. That's good for a starting point. I would not change the brake blocks yet. I would change the exterior adjustment. The reason is that the wheel adjustment is finer than changing the brake blocks, so you can see changes under a more controlled condition. You changes won't "get away from you", in other words. 

  

   Good luck!    jj