Ive been reading another thread about a regular SLX adjustment, but I have an XT with 2 less pins and the SVS braking. Currently I have 2 pins on and dual set to about 2. Throws a jig AMAZING, a half ounce frog good-ish and pitches and flips meh.... I backlash alot when pitching. I'm running 60lb Sunline FXS??? flipping and frogging, as they advertise it, braided line. On a 7'2 H/F SLX rod. I want more distance on the lighter frogs and pitching. As well as not lash on a pitch. 

 

This is my first H rod so I'm learning it doesn't load up anything like my MH rods, so still working on casting lighter lures. But does anyone have any advice on break/spool settings? Also spool is set pretty tight. Tighter than I run my Lews and Abu reels. Barely any, if any at all, side to side play. 

I don't have any words of wisdom to help you with flipping, except to say that I struggle a lot with setting up a baitcasting reel to flip or pitch as well. I'm a mainly bank angler, so I don't have a lot of occasion to flip, certainly not like boat guys who spend hours running banks and flipping. But on rare occasion when I do, I have the same problems as you (goes for both my Lew's Tournament MP and Daiwa Fuego)--set the spool tension too tight and the bait just doesn't go anywhere; set it too loose and I get instant backlash no matter where the brakes are set or how quickly I put on the "thumb brake."  So, I'm going to be watching any responses to your questions with interest.

 

On your question about the frog, I would think this would go for any lighter lures in general. My experience with throwing light lures on a baitcaster is that you have to depend a little more on the "thumb brake" and, unfortunately, just practice and get the hang of it. I have found that for light lures, I need to go really light on the spool tension knob, and also fairly light on the brakes. Heavier on either one and the lure just won't go far. With so little spool tension or brakes, then, you have to really manage with your thumb to prevent backlash and the end of the cast.

 

The trickiest part for me was backlash earlier in the cast. My experience (which I could be way off base, I'm just winging all this on my own) is that temptation with a light lure is to really put some oomph into the cast and try to muscle it far, but that results in backlash. Letting up on spool tension and brakes makes you not have to chuck it so hard. This seems counterintuitive if you're already experiencing backlash, but that early/mid cast backlash is from your muscle making the spool spin faster than the bait is traveling at the beginning of the cast. Less spool tension/brakes means less muscle needed to get the bait going; you just need to thumb manage the spool at the end of the cast. Also let the rod do the work (assuming the bait isn't just far too light for the rod), try to feel the rod load up on the back cast. 

 

Hope all that rambling helps. Your questions are good questions.

5 hours ago, plawren53202 said:

I don't have any words of wisdom to help you with flipping, except to say that I struggle a lot with setting up a baitcasting reel to flip or pitch as well. I'm a mainly bank angler, so I don't have a lot of occasion to flip, certainly not like boat guys who spend hours running banks and flipping. But on rare occasion when I do, I have the same problems as you (goes for both my Lew's Tournament MP and Daiwa Fuego)--set the spool tension too tight and the bait just doesn't go anywhere; set it too loose and I get instant backlash no matter where the brakes are set or how quickly I put on the "thumb brake."  So, I'm going to be watching any responses to your questions with interest.

 

On your question about the frog, I would think this would go for any lighter lures in general. My experience with throwing light lures on a baitcaster is that you have to depend a little more on the "thumb brake" and, unfortunately, just practice and get the hang of it. I have found that for light lures, I need to go really light on the spool tension knob, and also fairly light on the brakes. Heavier on either one and the lure just won't go far. With so little spool tension or brakes, then, you have to really manage with your thumb to prevent backlash and the end of the cast.

 

The trickiest part for me was backlash earlier in the cast. My experience (which I could be way off base, I'm just winging all this on my own) is that temptation with a light lure is to really put some oomph into the cast and try to muscle it far, but that results in backlash. Letting up on spool tension and brakes makes you not have to chuck it so hard. This seems counterintuitive if you're already experiencing backlash, but that early/mid cast backlash is from your muscle making the spool spin faster than the bait is traveling at the beginning of the cast. Less spool tension/brakes means less muscle needed to get the bait going; you just need to thumb manage the spool at the end of the cast. Also let the rod do the work (assuming the bait isn't just far too light for the rod), try to feel the rod load up on the back cast. 

 

Hope all that rambling helps. Your questions are good questions.

It makes sense alot. I need to ride thw thumb a bit more for sure. I just have my other two baitcasters set so perfect for me I forget this one isnt perfect for every lure yet. 

 

Something I read about the entire SLX line of reels is that they dont like a loose spool. My others, the spool is loose and has side to side play. The SLX insta-lashes if I have it that loose. So between the spool tension, centrifugal brakes (my first with them and not magnetic) and the brass collar brake, its taking some getting used to, especially on a heavy power rod. 

41 minutes ago, Luke Barnes said:

It makes sense alot. I need to ride thw thumb a bit more for sure. I just have my other two baitcasters set so perfect for me I forget this one isnt perfect for every lure yet. 

I hear you on this. When I have a bait on that falls in the middle of the weight range for my primary baitcaster combo, it's nearly backlash-proof (now of course as I say that I will have a massive bird's nest next time) because I have the dual brakes on my Tournament MP dialed in to exactly where I want them. If I go with a really light bait on that setup, though, it takes a little tinkering and a little more diligent thumb management.

I tend to run my reels looser when flippin and I turn up the magnetic/centrifugal brakes. Id try 4 brakes on and cast control loose then maybe try 2 brakes on and dial turned up with cast control loose. You want the spool to start up quick but be controlled.  Seems to work for me but definitely not something I have down to a science 

I have a few xt’s.  Try two on and two off, external set to six and adjust the tension knob so the side to side play is gone.  Keep your thumb on the spool and feather before the bait lands.  When casting keep an eye on the spool and if it fluffs up add the third brake.  Just a starting point ...

20 hours ago, Mr.C in Texas said:

I have a few xt’s.  Try two on and two off, external set to six and adjust the tension knob so the side to side play is gone.  Keep your thumb on the spool and feather before the bait lands.  When casting keep an eye on the spool and if it fluffs up add the third brake.  Just a starting point ...

Ive got two on two off, external set to two and spool side to side play is gone. Casts a jig a mile, casts a lighter frog good, and flips for crap! So I'm going to try looser for flipping.

55 minutes ago, Luke Barnes said:

Ive got two on two off, external set to two and spool side to side play is gone. Casts a jig a mile, casts a lighter frog good, and flips for crap! So I'm going to try looser for flipping.

Are you flippin or pitchin,  the spool usually does not spin when flippin so brake adjustment would be no help. 

 

Pitching I like to free the spool up, turn off the centrifugal brakes and turn up the magnetics until I get a nice controlled cast.

The lure must begin it’s acceleration  smoothly to prevent backlash. Pitching is imo more about technique than it is about reel settings. I would try looser on the spool and higher on the brakes though as a heavy rod is going to accelerate the lure abruptly, spool tension is for the end of the cast, brakes for the beginning. A heavy fast rod is just not ideal for pitching unless it has a softer tip (than your average heavy rod). 

15 hours ago, Bassjam2000 said:

The lure must begin it’s acceleration  smoothly to prevent backlash. Pitching is imo more about technique than it is about reel settings. I would try looser on the spool and higher on the brakes though as a heavy rod is going to accelerate the lure abruptly, spool tension is for the end of the cast, brakes for the beginning. A heavy fast rod is just not ideal for pitching unless it has a softer tip (than your average heavy rod). 

I always thought the ideal flipping rod was a heavy? Im still practicing pitching every time I fish to get better at it. I like what you said about spool vs. Brakes. That makes sense. Next time I get out I'll try loosening my spool for pitching. 

17 hours ago, Heartland said:

Are you flippin or pitchin,  the spool usually does not spin when flippin so brake adjustment would be no help. 

 

Pitching I like to free the spool up, turn off the centrifugal brakes and turn up the magnetics until I get a nice controlled cast.

I guess I don't truly know the difference between the two. I think I'm pitching and not flipping then. 

27 minutes ago, Luke Barnes said:

I guess I don't truly know the difference between the two. I think I'm pitching and not flipping then. 

 

Ok I am exclusively pitching. Plus after watching this and another video just now I realized i was doing it wrong in the first place! The more you know!!