I just purchased my first jon boat and new member to the forum(so go easy). I'm looking to add my own touches to it and one of the things I'd like to do is paint the outside. the current paint is factory original and in really good shape it's just really ugly. I'm looking for advise on whether it needs to be stripped or if I can just rough it up and paint it. I've never painted anything with a sprayer before(other than regular spray paint). I'm guessing that's the only way to go, but I'm looking for suggestions. Also do I need to prime this if the paint is in good shape now? Here's a Pic. Thanks in advance

Hey man, any similar questions I have seen asked on here folks will say, strip it, prime it, then repaint. I did with my old jon, the paint cost a fortune but I went with a guy who makes the paint for cars, boats, etc and really got some good paint.

if I found a boat like that, I wouldnt touch it....looks just fine.

I know it doesn't look bad but after seeing  what Low Budget Hooker did, I wanted to do something cool. Originally, I wanted to build the entire thing from an older boat but I stumbled on this boat and couldn't pass up the deal.  Other than a couple minor layout changes, there not much to do on this one.  

Surface Preparation of Aluminum for Painting

Sand paper: 80-100 grit

Scotch-Brite Hand Pads: part # 7447

Conversion coating: acid etch primer/Alodine/Chemfilm

Paint: automotive or marine grade polyurethane

Paint & Coating Stripper: Eldorado Solutions' DoradoTM Industrial Products part # 2021 or 5051

Steps

010: Clean the aluminum surface with a good cleaner using Scotch-Brite Hand Pads to remove all dirt, old paint and oxide from the surface. When sanding I prefer 80-100 grit it gives better tooth and paint adhesion. Sanding must be taken into the best previously adhered surface in order to have the new coat of paint hold properly. Start with an orbital sander; finish by hand with Scotch-Brite Hand Pads. Rinse thoroughly with clean water, let day completely.

020: Apply a coat of acid etch primer following the mixing and application instructions to the letter.

030: Within 24 hours of applying the etch primer, apply the topcoat finish.

I know it doesn't look bad but after seeing what Low Budget Hooker did, I wanted to do something cool. Originally, I wanted to build the entire thing from an older boat but I stumbled on this boat and couldn't pass up the deal. Other than a couple minor layout changes, there not much to do on this one.

LOL, be careful with that. I spent a good chunk of last Summer painting, decking, pulling 40 ft of wiring and riveting my 1436 after seeing his stuff. Came out great but man...what a project. LBH's projects are a high standard to aim for.

Surface Preparation of Aluminum for Painting

Sand paper: 80-100 grit

Scotch-Brite Hand Pads: part # 7447

Conversion coating: acid etch primer/Alodine/Chemfilm

Paint: automotive or marine grade polyurethane

Paint & Coating Stripper: Eldorado Solutions' DoradoTM Industrial Products part # 2021 or 5051

Steps

010: Clean the aluminum surface with a good cleaner using Scotch-Brite Hand Pads to remove all dirt, old paint and oxide from the surface. When sanding I prefer 80-100 grit it gives better tooth and paint adhesion. Sanding must be taken into the best previously adhered surface in order to have the new coat of paint hold properly. Start with an orbital sander; finish by hand with Scotch-Brite Hand Pads. Rinse thoroughly with clean water, let day completely.

020: Apply a coat of acid etch primer following the mixing and application instructions to the letter.

030: Within 24 hours of applying the etch primer, apply the topcoat finish.

Thanks Catt. I'm guessing both the primer and paint should be sprayed on.  Also if painted within 24 hours I shouldn't have to sand the primer at all, correct?  Also should I put multiple coats of paint on? If so how long should I wait between coats and should a light sanding job be done between coats?  

Spraying will give you a smoother finish

If the surface is prepped correctly sanding of the primer shouldn't be required

Multiple coats may not be necessary

If you don't want to spray you can Roll and Tip it comes out looking like it was sprayed on if done right. Good Luck nice Rig

If you don't want to spray you can Roll and Tip it comes out looking like it was sprayed on if done right. Good Luck nice Rig

I understand the roll part, but what do you mean by tip?  I"m guessing the prep is the same, rough up and prime, but are there any tricks to rolling it on and not seeing any roller marks or streaking?

Your project looks similar to what I just finished tackling. It took me all summer to finish, mostly because time was hard to find, but here's the results and methods used (posted in recent thread).

http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1254179965

As for rolling and tipping, it's easy if you have the right paint. Based on research at what LowBudgetHooker used, I went with Interlux Brightside for the top coat as well, which is sold in quarts and gallons at West Marine. I used almost 3 quarts (about $40/quart). After prepping the surface properly, you simply roll on the paint like normal. Tipping is simply using a regular paint brush and lightly streaking the paint parallel to the direction you rolled. The Interlux paint then smooths out on its own. Basically, tipping just ensures that your rolling is smooth and even. But make sure you use quality brushes. You don't want "horse hairs" in your paint job.

Your project looks similar to what I just finished tackling. It took me all summer to finish, mostly because time was hard to find, but here's the results and methods used (posted in recent thread).

http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1254179965

As for rolling and tipping, it's easy if you have the right paint. Based on research at what LowBudgetHooker used, I went with Interlux Brightside for the top coat as well, which is sold in quarts and gallons at West Marine. I used almost 3 quarts (about $40/quart). After prepping the surface properly, you simply roll on the paint like normal. Tipping is simply using a regular paint brush and lightly streaking the paint parallel to the direction you rolled. The Interlux paint then smooths out on its own. Basically, tipping just ensures that your rolling is smooth and even. But make sure you use quality brushes. You don't want "horse hairs" in your paint job.

He hit the nail on the head it is easy and will come out great just google it .Good Luck

Thanks Guys, I'll think I'll give that a try since I don't have the spray gun equipment and would prefer not to have overspray all over my garage.  I'll post the pick once i get it done.

http://www.tinboats.net/forum

Answers to all your tinboat ?'s  ;D

awesome link. def got some new ideas for my build.

Here's teh finished product.

Sorry,  Here's some more pics. 

I sanded etched primed the bare metal where the paint was going to be. Then primed over that. 

The bottom is Steelflex over bare sanded metal, (based on Jerry's recommendation at Fasco).

Painted with Rustoleum and then put on a Clear Gloss Finish. 

Overall, pretty happy with the paint job, being a first timer. 

The Steelflex was a challeng as it sagged a lot.  I think it might have been too cold(about 65-70degrees). 

Looks great nice job