Has anyone had the stock flush mount rod holder pull out on a Native Slayer? Got caught on a rock in bad current and flipped the kayak, when my rod hit the bottom the rod holder popped off the kayak. Probably saved my St Croix from snapping so I was glad it had the give.
 

Now I need to get the rod holder back in place and I’m running into a few issues I was hoping someone may have experience with.

 

The bolts are slightly wider on the bottom to hold into the kayak holes, no threads. They also have completely round heads, they will not take a drill bit/Allen wrench. Additionally, the cables that control the rudder are straight down from the existing hole so the rod holder hits them when I try to slip it into the existing slot.

 

If need be, I can drill holes offset from the existing and switch the bolts to ones with threads but I was hoping to not add holes if possible.

If you can get inside to add backing seal washers and nylok nuts, I would take the approach of switching the fasteners to the slightest size up.  

Socket button head capscrews or star-drive truss-head machine screws have very low-profile smooth heads.  

You only need to drill to the minor thread, so the screws will self-tap and seal into the plastic.  

On the inside, you can add rubber-seal washers and nylok nuts.  In order for all this to seal completely, you need to be able to final tighten from inside with wrench or nut driver.  

  

 

Bolt Depot is a remarkable source for piecemeal fasteners - they treat small piecemeal orders with the same respect as big industrial orders, and they offer first-class mail shipping.  

@bulldog1935 thanks for the info.

 

I don’t believe I will be able to access the inside with a nut driver or wrench, I need to check this.

I've made some pretty long stretches through tiny hatches to get backing, especially with a ratchet wrench, but I have the gibbon-like arms they built all those Italian cars for...

 

@bigbassin'

Since you don't have much choice about the need to repair, the self-tapped machine threads in the plastic can be enough, if you self-tap them first, then take them out, and inject 3M marine sealant into the hole before final installing the machine screws.  

Don't tighten them enough to strip the plastic threads you tapped. 

 

The other choices are add well-nuts, and the one I've never trusted, pop-rivets.  

 

On 5/30/2021 at 7:20 PM, bigbassin' said:

 

 

They also have completely round heads, they will not take a drill bit/Allen wrench. 

 

 

 

 

That's because they're rivets. You need to drill them out

Can you post some photos? Seeing what your seeing may help.

 

 

I figured out how to access the inside of the kayak with a wrench, I’ll be going with the bolt, rubber washer, nut route. Size 10 bolts matched the existing holes.

 

As for the drive cables, the rudder seems to operate with the least resistance putting one cable on either side of the rod holder.

 

I’ll add some pictures once complete.