I've never used a Silvermax so I have no idea how far it can cast or how light a lure it can handle.  Nor do I have much experience with $100 reels.  Well....I have quite a few that cost $100 or less, but most of them (not all) retailed for more.

 

If I were you, I'd be looking for a Daiwa T3 1016 or T3 MX 1016.  These have the Magforce 3D brakes.  They aren't a popular reel because many think they feel hollow due to the Zaion used in some of its construction.  Personally I like them.  The T3 1016 can be found in very good condition for $100-$130.  MSRP in 2011 was $429.  AFAIC it is one of the best buys out there. 

 

I don't know what to think if you are backlashing at the beginning of casts when you say you aren't casting hard.  What weight lures are you using, and what is the rod rated for?  Backlashes at the beginning of the cast suggest to me that your cast isn't as smooth as it should be.

37 minutes ago, Alden said:

My brother-in-law uses one that's much more expensive (don't know the model but he spends way more on gear than I do) and I never see him put his thumb on the reel until the very end of the cast. This is what I'm hoping to achieve and I wasn't sure if price would make a difference.

The issue here is that your BIL has a developed feel for the bait's weight and the way it loads the rod, and the energy of the cast and release. You haven't figured that out yet.

5 minutes ago, new2BC4bass said:

I don't know what to think if you are backlashing at the beginning of casts when you say you aren't casting hard.

It's his load and release point.

You will get more bang for your buck having the reel you now have cleaned and tuned professionally. You owned the reel 2 years, have you cleaned and lubricated it properly? Contact site sponsor DVT.

The rod and line used is far more important for casting distance along with casting skills.

Tom

43 minutes ago, new2BC4bass said:

I've never used a Silvermax so I have no idea how far it can cast or how light a lure it can handle.  Nor do I have much experience with $100 reels.  Well....I have quite a few that cost $100 or less, but most of them (not all) retailed for more.

 

If I were you, I'd be looking for a Daiwa T3 1016 or T3 MX 1016.  These have the Magforce 3D brakes.  They aren't a popular reel because many think they feel hollow due to the Zaion used in some of its construction.  Personally I like them.  The T3 1016 can be found in very good condition for $100-$130.  MSRP in 2011 was $429.  AFAIC it is one of the best buys out there. 

 

I don't know what to think if you are backlashing at the beginning of casts when you say you aren't casting hard.  What weight lures are you using, and what is the rod rated for?  Backlashes at the beginning of the cast suggest to me that your cast isn't as smooth as it should be.

Mostly 3/4 ounce as I've had bad luck with anything lighter. I'm not sure about the rod rating off the top of my head, I'd have to check later tonight. I've got a pretty good feel for how smooth the cast should be as I can tell immediately when I was a little too enthusiastic right before the inevitable quick stop of my line running. Oftentimes the backlash happens 1-2 seconds after releasing the lure, that's more what I meant by beginning/mid cast.

46 minutes ago, PhishLI said:

The issue here is that your BIL has a developed feel for the bait's weight and the way it loads the rod, and the energy of the cast and release. You haven't figured that out yet.

It's his load and release point.

I really don't think that's the issue as I've spent more than a few hours focusing solely on the casting technique. As I said above, a lot of times its takes a couple seconds before the backlash happens. It happens almost instantly when I throw it too aggressively.

10 minutes ago, Alden said:

I really don't think that's the issue as I've spent more than a few hours focusing solely on the casting technique.

I disagree. Casting technique with the specific feel required for not blowing up takes tome. 98% of my fishing is in the dark with multiple setups. My brakes are set up low enough that nobody I fish with can "try" out one of my setups without blowing up. Unless I snag something on the back cast or whip a branch I very rarely have an issue. Long gone are the days where I have the reel lock up fast at the beginning of a cast, but I've been there. 

 

Trust me, it's a feel issue. Also, if you're overloading your rod with a 3/4oz bait you're going to increase the probability of what you've described happening. Over time you'll be able to ascertain if that's happening. Again, it's a feel issue. While it's possible to throw a bait that's outside of a rod's working lure rating, you must develop a feel for more than just the energy you put into your cast. There's more to it than that.

10 minutes ago, PhishLI said:

I disagree. Casting technique with the specific feel required for not blowing up takes tome. 98% of my fishing is in the dark with multiple setups. My brakes are set up low enough that nobody I fish with can "try" out one of my setups without blowing up. Unless I snag something on the back cast or whip a branch I very rarely have an issue. Long gone are the days where I have the reel lock up fast at the beginning of a cast, but I've been there. 

 

Trust me, it's a feel issue. Also, if you're overloading your rod with a 3/4oz bait you're going to increase the probability of what you've described happening. Over time you'll be able to ascertain if that's happening. Again, it's a feel issue. While it's possible to throw a bait that's outside of a rod's working lure rating, you must develop a feel for more than just the energy you put into your cast. There's more to it than that.

Let me ask another question. When setting the spool tension knob do you hold your rod horizontally or at a 45 degree angle?

6 minutes ago, Alden said:

Let me ask another question. When setting the spool tension knob do you hold your rod horizontally or at a 45 degree angle?

My spool tension is set to neutral, meaning no side to side play. The lures drop like a rock.