Most of the time I change out alot of my treble hooks when I get some new lures. I try to use the black or red colored hooks, but I cannot say it makes a difference. I do wonder why some lure companies but bright chrome hooks on their lures. I thought the whole idea is the fish does not see or get a good look at the hooks. To me those bright chrome hooks look like a huge flashing danger sign in the water. What is your guys thoughts? Do you change out your trebles to get a different color or sharper, stronger hook?

This might be my 80’s west coast weirdness showing, but on some baits I like chrome hooks - chrome cranks&traps, light color topwaters, jigging & flutter spoons. Basically anywhere it blends in and doesn’t present a contrast.

Beyond that, black or red is fine with me.

Edited 1 hour ago1 hr by ElGuapo928
Grammar

Treble Hook Replacement: One Man’s Theory & Application

The subject of treble hooks has been kicked around here more than a few times. 

Could be a solid ‘hard water season’ discussion. Either way, I’ve mentioned a few times

that I prefer to replace most stock trebles with aftermarket offerings. 

Additionally, I’m a fan of EWG’s vs. the Round Bend model in just about every scenario. 

Not saying that one is considerably more effective than the other; it’s just how I do it and where my confidence lies on the matter.  

However, there’s a bit of method to my madness, which I’ll explain in detail in just a bit.

No doubt, the hook replacement deal is a commitment, and I’m not sure if I’ve ever really gotten into exactly why I do it.  

The Why is what this post will center around.

 

Perhaps the obvious aspect of the stock treble hook replacement is, I believe that replacing marginal quality stock trebles with a better option puts more of the fish that strike my baits into the net. 

This might even be a complete figment of my imagination, but my perception is my reality, so there you go. 

Either way, all of my treble hook plugs get the treatment. 

This includes but may not be limited to topwater, jerkbaits, square bills, lipless, medium & deep divers, and even spy/spin baits.

 

The "why" is right here—the actual meat & potatoes of this deal.  

I am a huge fan of plus-sizing where needed. 

Needed?

Yup, needed.

 

The best way for me to describe this starts by taking just about any treble hook bait out of the package. 

Holding the nose of the bait and turning it so that we are looking at the ‘bottom’ of the bait. 

If & when the trebles are positioned ‘correctly’ on the split rings, the treble hooks should lie flat & flush against the body of the bait. 

Now, pay particular attention to where the points of the front treble (and middle treble on a 3-hook bait) are in relation to the bait’s body diameter.  

I find that on many stock offerings, regardless of hook type, the treble hook ‘points’ are the same size as or smaller than the body of the bait.

This can be especially true on ‘fatter’ squarebills, cranks & beefy topwater plugs.

 

Why is this a concern, and does that even matter? 

It might. 

I contend that when a bass bites down on the bait, the body of the bait itself could possibly impede the hookset.  

By plus-sizing that front treble (and middle when so equipped), the hook points are positioned at least even with, or better yet, ‘beyond’ the body of the bait. 

Thus, allowing the trebles to be accessed in advance of the bass coming in contact with the bait itself. 

So in my world, that front (and middle hook) gets a bump up in at least one size so the points clear the bait, or at least come close. 

Tailhooks are usually simply replaced with the same size.

 

Clearly there’s no way to know for sure how a fish will strike a bait, and each one is different & a crapshoot.

Split-second hits & misses are always going to be a part of the deal regardless. However, I believe I get less of that going this route.

 

Short-shank trebles prevent most hook-to-hook tangles, and that’s what I use the most.  

Plus-sized hooks can change how the bait sits & is positioned at rest, especially suspending jerkbaits. 

I’ve not found this to really matter all that much.

Slow sink, slow rise, nose up, and nose down, they all get bites.  

I also tie up my own dressed tail hooks for topwaters; just use a better hook.

  

It seems most stock split rings are decent these days, but if there’s ever a question, Owner Hyper wires get the nod.

These owners' rings will endure routine hook changes through the course of a season without springing open, which I like.

Standard split ring line ties, where the line can get pinched or slide between the rings, which I hate, are ALL replaced with oval or pear-shaped versions. 

Finally, when it comes to makes & models of aftermarket trebles, again, there are plenty of very good ones readily available now. 

And while I haven’t tried them all, I am currently using and feel good about recommending the Mustad KVD 1X strong 2X short triple grip, Gamakatsu Short Shank Magic Eye, and Owner Short Shank ST-35s; all EWG, of course.

 

So there it is—a look into my obsession with treble hooks.

Fish Hard

A-Jay