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Buying my second Shimano

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Hey guys, I use mainly Shimano products and have since I started because I love the quality.  For any of you Shimano Spinning setup guys my current setup is:

-Reel

SON4000FA: Line retrieve per crank is 28, 8/240, 10/200, 12/160,

max drag lbs is 17.0, 2 ball bearings, 1 roller bearing, gear ratio

of 5.1:1, 12.7oz is reel weight  

-Rod

SMS60M-2: 6'0", Medium, Fast, 6-12lb test, 1/8-1/2 lure weight, 2 piece

I'm looking to upgrade for my second rod and reel.  I don't want to go too much more expensive and I'd like a lighter reel, as well as a bit faster of a retrieve.  I love the sensitivity of the rod that I have and wouldn't change it for the world, so I need a rod comparable to that.  I don't like anything over 6'6", don't need a heck of a lot of backbone since I mostly catch 1-3lbers around here and don't fish extremely dense vegetation.  I'd like to be able to use swimming jigs, senkos, and carolina rigs with the new setup as my other pole is mostly for spinners, senkos, topwater, and inline spinners.  I also want a two piece rod to help break down easier in my car.  Any ideas on what I should look into next without going way deep into my wallet?

  • Author

my mistake, it's the SE4000FB (Sedona Model).

Only changes are 3 ball bearings, and some extras that the reel offers such as Cold Forged Aluminum Spool provides increased strength and durability.

Spare Cold Forged Aluminum Spool (except model 750)

S-Concept (only on model 750) represents Shimanos initial philosophy on which many of our spinning reels have been designed. The three basic ideas that are inherent in the S-Concept are Smooth, Silent and Strong.

Slow Oscillation (only on model 750) lays the line in a parallel pattern for excellent castability and control.

Maintenance Port (only on model 750) a sealed plug that can be removed using a screwdriver to easily lubricate the drivetrain without disassembling the reel.

S-Arm Cam (only on model 750) a protruding surface on the bail arm keeps slack line in contact with the line roller to reduce the chance of tangles and line cuts.

Fluidrive uses the successes of Fluidrive, but also uses a polishing process to increase tooth contact for increased efficiency.

So I guess this reel is pretty nice, but what would be the next apporpriate step up for what I had in mind?

  • Super User

Symetre. MSRP $79, but you may be able to find one for around $50. Also, for bass fishing the 2500 series is as big as you need.

  • Author

Thanks Roadwarrior.  I appreciate the info.  I saw that after I had bought my previous reel that I didn't need to get one that big in weight.

Also is it ok to actually put higher test than the reel is designed for with these?  Like by 2-4lb?  Just curious.

  • Author

Also what is the difference between front/rear drag?  I've never bought a reel with that.  So the rod is probably ok as far as maybe getting the same one?

  • Super User
Thanks Roadwarrior. I appreciate the info. I saw that after I had bought my previous reel that I didn't need to get one that big in weight.

Also is it ok to actually put higher test than the reel is designed for with these? Like by 2-4lb? Just curious.

Yes, but you really don't need to. If you want "strength" 20/6 or 30/8 braid might be the answer.

However, my suggestion is Yo-Zuri Hybrid Ultra Soft #6 (11.9 lb test).

Regarding the drag: Stick with a front drag. The "advantage" to rear drags is that they can be adjusted more easily when fighting a fish. Well, you should never do that anyhow! Set your drag up properly and you will not need adjustments.

  • Author

Thanks buddy.  Yea I don't adjust mine except before I cast need be.  I'll check out that Yo-Zuri line if we have any up in the stores I purchase from around here.  I usually use trilene (xtra tough or regular) or spiderwire mono 10-12lb test.  Thanks for all the help and info.  I'll be looking into buying it with my next check Sept 1.  Let you know what I think after I get a few trips in next month.

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