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BASSclary

Gear side baitcaster maintenaince.

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Hey all, I need some help.

Basically when I opened up the easy lube port on my Carbonlite (Fancy PQ) the grease, which once was white, is not a dirty off color and I think its time I regrease it. I've been using this reel heavily also.

Also, I want to do this myself so I can do it many more times in my life. So my question is, how do I lube it properly? I've only just added a little oil and grease through the easy lube port. Now I want to take it apart for a thorough cleaning and relubing (Ardent Reel Butter and Oil).

What goes on what? Im assuming oil for bearings etc and grease for gears?

Also, if anybody has taken apart a PQ or CL, are there any springs that like to jump out that I should know about? Also I will be filming it just incase I forget how to out it back together.

Also, I think some oil or grease has gotten into my drag because it feels noticeably weaker (Is that a normal symptom?), is there a sure fire way to get it off is there is any on it?

Thanks for your help guys,

Collin

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I don't know if your drag is supposed to be lubed but if it is, do yourself a favor and use drag grease, not the grease you use on the rest of the reel.  Drag grease is thick sticky stuff based on cosmoline, not the light grease used in wheel bearings, for instance.  PTFE (aka Teflon) and carbon drag washers can be run dry or lightly greased.  Fiber washers should be greased.  Using the right lube will make the drag work smoother and much longer.  Many reels come "over lubed" from the factory because many users will run a reel until it fails, not until it needs more lubrication.  If lube migrates into the drag system, it will cause the symptoms you describe.  Shimano ACE-2, Penn Muscle Grease are 2 drag greases.  And don't forget there's usually a drag washer under the main gear that works to determine the drag's 'break-over' point.  It should be serviced just like the drag washers inside the main gear.  Oil bearings and the level wind worm gear,  grease most everything else and don't over-do it.   

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What I do is first strip entire reel down and clean with Reel Clean. Then I lightly grease all gears, threads, worm gears (high stress), remove shields from spool bearings and then soak spool bearing in spirits, dry them, then lightly lube with a very fast lube, replace shields. Don't get lube in the anti reverse, and lightly oil  shafts and places that need to spin fast. And for other bearings, take off the shields, soak in spirits, and I personally pack any non-spool bearings with grease, and replace shields. While they won't spin long, they will last alot longer, especially if any salt or minerals would get to them. And in most baitcasters there are two springs that fall out quite easily. Heres a tip: video yourself taking the reel apart, piece by piece, and know FOR SURE how to put it back together. Good luck.

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Good advice so far. I'll add one more piece.

Forget about the "lube port". Don't use it. Think about it.

What earthly good does it do to add new, clean lube over the top of old dirty lube?

As far as I'm concerned, a lube port is just one more place for contaminants to enter. If I had a reel with a lube port, I'd glue it shut.

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