I used this top water the other day for the first time. I was fishing from shore. If I cast out just far enough, I could get the lure to react how I wanted (walk the dog method). However, if I went past this point, and cast out further, I couldn't get the method I was trying to achieve.

My question: is this the nature of the beast; being that the distance of the lure from my pole is too far, delay the reaction of the bait? Or is this something line change could fix, as I was using monofilament.

It could just be the stretch of the mono at such a long distance that your not getting the action you want. If you want you could try braid  with a mono leader. Also, are you using spinning or baitcasting? I find walking the dog quite harder for me with baitcasting if im on shore, but I LOVE it on a boat. Personal preference I guess...

I used this top water the other day for the first time. I was fishing from shore. If I cast out just far enough, I could get the lure to react how I wanted (walk the dog method). However, if I went past this point, and cast out further, I couldn't get the method I was trying to achieve.

My question: is this the nature of the beast; being that the distance of the lure from my pole is too far, delay the reaction of the bait? Or is this something line change could fix, as I was using monofilament.

I will take a shot at this. When "walking the dog" it's all about technique. You want to have a little slack in your line when you jerk to complete the motion. I think when the spook is farther out there is more technique involved to transfer the rod motion to the bait. The spook is my #1 go to lure, and one of the easiest to walk the dog with. I use 10 lb mono (depending on where I am fishing/size of fish). I use the 6'6 St. Croix Avid Med Fast.

I think that the reason you are having a hard time is technique.

Here is a video of Tom Redington describing the technique.

Yes, technique is all that matters. That said, there are some things that could make life easier for you.

I too had problems with walking a heddon spook at the end of a cast. Now I use rapala walks, and have no problems. Of course that doesn't mean it's easier to walk the rapala stickbait; just that I find it easier.

Spinning or baitcasting, I don't find that a factor at all.

Rod action matters a lot. I had huge problems with my regular treble hook lures rod, a medium-fast action. Now I use my spinnerbait/rattle-trap rod, which has a fast action. Instant change from the lure wallowing to a crisp zig-zag action.

Line choice: I have had the best results with braid. The no stretch helps a lot. But as a practical solution (I couldn't afford to use a rod just for one type of lure), I use 12 lb Suffix siege mono. There's little stretch in this line (compared to a lot of monos that is).

So does that mean you can't walk the dog with a slow action rod spooled with Trilene XL? Of course you can. But you got to perfect your technique before you can succeed in doing that. As of now, I'm happy with my set-up (fast action, 12 lb Siege) and my not-yet-perfect technique.

P.S. You don't *have* to snap the rod downwards. You can snap it sideways too (that's how I do it in my kayak), so long you snap it with the adequate amount of slack.

Being that I'm still new to all this, my first thought was maybe the stretching of the mono line could be contributing to the in effectiveness. I also thought that maybe the length of my rod and being on a shorline was the cause. I failed to take into account the action of my rod, causing my rhythm to be off, delaying the effectiness.

That's a great point as well.

I use braid and a 6'6 rod...

I would highly recommend using a loop knot to help your perfect the action.

I use a 7' MHF rod. I have used 10lb Yozuri hybrid with it, but I prefer 55lb braid. With the low stretch I have more control over the bait. I do use a 3' 15lb yozuri leader on it, for a shock absorber.

I find the stiffer rods help with the action when the bait is further out there, as I too fish from shore.