I've got a lake that's chocked full of hydrilla, I can't seam to find any lure that I can use with out pulling but 10lbs of weeds. I've used tiki sticks but with little results. The pond is not known for bass over about a pound and a half. It has about 8 foot of viz, so it's pretty clear.

Could y'all help me out?

:-?

I've got a lake that's chocked full of hydrilla, I can't seam to find any lure that I can use with out pulling but 10lbs of weeds. I've used tiki sticks but with little results. The pond is not known for bass over about a pound and a half. It has about 8 foot of viz, so it's pretty clear.

Could y'all help me out?

:-?

sounds like a lot of trouble for not so nice bass

I've got a lake that's chocked full of hydrilla, I can't seam to find any lure that I can use with out pulling but 10lbs of weeds. I've used tiki sticks but with little results. The pond is not known for bass over about a pound and a half. It has about 8 foot of viz, so it's pretty clear.

Could y'all help me out?

:-?

sounds like a lot of trouble for not so nice bass

Ya but it's only about 5 miles from where I live so I can ride my bike every weekend or so. Great for weekends when my dad's swamped with home work (he's trying to get his doc. degree).

And if I'm not catching anything, I can just get a popper and fly and tie the 2 together and kill the blue gill!

I like the weightless Tiki BamBoo stick for working over top hydrilla (the Rage Tail Toad would be another suggestion). But for working down in the grass a 4" tube t-rigged with a pegged bullet weight will do the job too. Under most conditions, I go with the lightest bullet weight I can get away with but there are times where I'll go way up in weight and use somewhere around 1oz to get the bait down to the bottom and stay there. Usually when I use the bigged weight, I'll switch the tube out for a Brush Hog.

I like the weightless Tiki BamBoo stick for working over top hydrilla (the Rage Tail Toad would be another suggestion). But for working down in the grass a 4" tube t-rigged with a pegged bullet weight will do the job too. Under most conditions, I go with the lightest bullet weight I can get away with but there are times where I'll go way up in weight and use somewhere around 1oz to get the bait down to the bottom and stay there. Usually when I use the bigged weight, I'll switch the tube out for a Brush Hog.

I use dip sticks red with chartreuse tail, Saturday I caught a 8" bass on a 6", man them things got eyes bigger than their stomach.  ;D

i have alot of hydrilla in lakes here and i have alot of trouble fishing it  but i found a nice solution.   try to find some areas where the hydrilla is not so dense. then try a brush hog on a trig with the weight being just heavy enough to punch through the grass. then pull the bait through  u will feel it snag up a bit. just pull easily then when the bait comes loose  let it fall,  (try the lightest weight possible again) the bait will flutter back to the bottom and this is when the bass will grab it.  its slow fishing but here it produces   the best areas are like i said less denser hydrilla and if there are patches of coontail present then you found yourself a real honey hole  i hope i help,  it took me three years to finally get a pattern for this grassy situation

im used to fishing gin clear water in deep spring quarries and spring rivers etc. and what i used to use alot over top of the muck was an 1/8 oz. beetle spin in black w/green stripes and various 1/8 to 1/4 oz swimming jig heads with grubs on them. darker grubs and any sort of green or brown killed. these baits will destroy bass in the 1 to 3lb range and quite honestly my PB largemouth was on a 1/8oz beetlespin at roughly 10lbs. also good is the original rapala 2 and 3 in. floating minnows. i used to fish for only small bass for a long time. trust me on this. lol. most anything that is marketed for crappie will catch small bass and will stay above your hydrilla rather easily.

tight lines.

i really dont think the bait matters, i use sweet beavers in the same fashion and get just as many bites,   the weight is very important and depends on the weeds. early in the year before the weeds really grow, i use a 1/16 then go from there. Pick a light weight, fish for awhile, if you think you can get away with a lighter weight switched, if you dont think the bait is getting below the weeds, switch to a bigger one   its a hard technique to explain, i learned it first hand while i was fishing a touranment and the guy in my boat showed me it, then i showed a few of my friends  but i never tryed to explain it like this i hope im making sense

Grass flipping tips

Maintain contact with your lure at all times, allow the lure to free-fall unrestricted, but without letting slack form in the line; follow your lures down with your rod tip.

Pay close attention to the depth you're flipping, any sudden change in the amount of line you're using could mean you've been bit. For instance, if you're flipping 6 feet of water and the lure suddenly stops at the 3 depth, it's possible a bass has taken the bait. If you're flipping 3 feet of water and 6 feet of line sinks beneath the mat, chances are good a bass is traveling with the bait. This is extremely true on the initial flip and no line movement maybe noticed.

Strikes will sometimes so subtle with no line movement that they can go unnoticed if you feel is a spongy sensation, as if the line suddenly got heavy set the hook.

Flipping matted cover requires compact lures which means worms with no curl tails that can wrap grass stems. Craw worms or creature baits are excellent choices, for worms use straight tails or paddle tails, for jigs any will work but obviously not football heads. In grass shorter is better than longer, I stay 6 or less.

Weights vary according to density of the vegetation, bottom contact is critical

Keep it vertical with flips approximately 8 to 10 feet away max, the farther away the better the odds of hanging in the grass.

Equipment is personal with many opting for high speed reels for taking up line faster while I opt for lower speeds and more power since I don't have that much line out to start with. I use my rod to move line since it will do it faster than any reel.  

Line size varies according to density of the vegetation; I'll use 15# Big Game in sparse grass and 50# braid in matted.

rage tail toad!!!

im used to fishing gin clear water in deep spring quarries and spring rivers etc. and what i used to use alot over top of the muck was an 1/8 oz. beetle spin in black w/green stripes and various 1/8 to 1/4 oz swimming jig heads with grubs on them. darker grubs and any sort of green or brown killed. these baits will destroy bass in the 1 to 3lb range and quite honestly my PB largemouth was on a 1/8oz beetlespin at roughly 10lbs. also good is the original rapala 2 and 3 in. floating minnows. i used to fish for only small bass for a long time. trust me on this. lol. most anything that is marketed for crappie will catch small bass and will stay above your hydrilla rather easily.

tight lines.

Thanks I have a ton of black and yellow beetlespins, in 1/8 oz!

rage tail toad!!!

I've tried Stanlys and canes but not rage tails, none of them worked!  :-/

none of them worked!  :-/

i really dont think the bait matters

It's not the bait in this case, ANYTHING that you can drag across the slop will usually draw the same fish underneath to hit, whether it's a frog, grub, fluke, worm,rat, etc. (as long as it is weedless)  The fish doesn't know,...all he sees is a vulnerable food possibility skittering across the topside.  If you aren't getting swung at, they probably aren't under there or aren't biting.  

Getting the call is only the beginning though.  Even then, a high majority will be misses and non hook set fish.  The ones you do get to stick the point in will now attempt to put your gear to the test.  Don't even bother throwing in there if you ...

A.  Don't have the stick/line combo to haul it out once it buries in the muck

B.   Don't have a boat so you can go to the fish and retrieve it.

If A or B do not exist, I won't fish that area.  I won't risk injuring or killing a fish I have a low chance of retrieving.

Also READ THIS  Every word is specifically chosen, pay attention

Grass flipping tips

Maintain contact with your lure at all times, allow the lure to free-fall unrestricted, but without letting slack form in the line; follow your lures down with your rod tip.

Pay close attention to the depth you're flipping, any sudden change in the amount of line you're using could mean you've been bit. For instance, if you're flipping 6 feet of water and the lure suddenly stops at the 3 depth, it's possible a bass has taken the bait. If you're flipping 3 feet of water and 6 feet of line sinks beneath the mat, chances are good a bass is traveling with the bait. This is extremely true on the initial flip and no line movement maybe noticed.

Strikes will sometimes so subtle with no line movement that they can go unnoticed if you feel is a spongy sensation, as if the line suddenly got heavy set the hook.

Flipping matted cover requires compact lures which means worms with no curl tails that can wrap grass stems. Craw worms or creature baits are excellent choices, for worms use straight tails or paddle tails, for jigs any will work but obviously not football heads. In grass shorter is better than longer, I stay 6 or less.

Weights vary according to density of the vegetation, bottom contact is critical

Keep it vertical with flips approximately 8 to 10 feet away max, the farther away the better the odds of hanging in the grass.

Equipment is personal with many opting for high speed reels for taking up line faster while I opt for lower speeds and more power since I don't have that much line out to start with. I use my rod to move line since it will do it faster than any reel.  

Line size varies according to density of the vegetation; I'll use 15# Big Game in sparse grass and 50# braid in matted.

Thanks LBH!

And about letter B (  Be in a boat so you can go to the fish and retrieve it.), The Lake isn't actually a lake, it's a small pond no more than 2 acres, and its right next to a super store, so no boating, and even if you could, I don't have one.

And I know you don't think that color matters, I saw the video with you in it on lunker vile, great job BTW!

And the one reel I do have is loaded with 50lb braid, but like I said, it clear, And also highly pressured. So I have to use a leader, I use 20lb FC.

It was dug to make the store, McDonalds, gas station and BBQ restaurant, right smack dab in the middle of the whole plaza. So it's super deep, I would even say 40 foot deep in some places!

It's tuf fishing!

And the one reel I do have is loaded with 50lb braid,

Doesn't matter if it's 300 lb braid, if the reel is on a medium or light powered rod, it's useless in this application.