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lacab

Help!!!!!!!!!!!!

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After reading some post I'm starting think I'm a bass fishing misfit. :-[ I can't imagine catching double digits in one outing. My best day was 4 bass. I have spent many 8 or more hour days on my local lake only to get skunked. I fish an 1800 acre reservoir max depth is about 30'. The water is stained/muddy. Visibility is 3' or less at best. Surface temp was 77-84 yesterday. Most shore lines have a lot of limestone. I just got my first boat in February and I'm still trying to understand reading the depth finder (Humminbird 565). I've tried graphing the creek channel with no luck. Lately I haven't even marked any fish. I've caught fish on spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, shakey head worm, weightless Yamamoto senkos and kreatures. I tried cranks, lipless cranks, t-rigged worms, c-rig, soft and hard jerk baits. I enjoy just getting out to fish but it's starting to get really frustrating. I've attached a map and marked the spots and the numbers caught at each spot. Any help would be DEEPLY appreciated.

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I see several places that the creek channel appears to come close to points and banks.Star there. This time of year fish relate to ares that are close to deep water. These are spots that I would throw a jig, weightless fluke and a 1/4 spot remover(shakey head) If the  wind is blowing over those areas I would think you could really smoke them.What colors are you using. I wouild keep it simple. Plastics...Greens (Green Pumpkin) and Purples (Junebug) and browns. I use clearer colors like watermelon or watermelon red if the water is clear and the sun is out. White flukes and brown jigs.  IMO

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This is kind of a shot in the dark since I have no clue what you lake is like... weeds, timber, brush, forage?

Anyway, I would look for cover in or around irregular contours. Places where there is an abrupt change in depth or shape. Sometimes we kill em' where a deep bank levels out- there is a triangular shaped area in that transition which usually has a change in bottom compisition along with it. Those type of places are what I'd try to find. I tried to draw some circles in a few areas that had what I'm talking about. A better map would help also.  

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lake11gf9.jpg

I have marked a number of areas on this map that I would key on.  No magic pill here.  Just apply what you learn as far as seasonal movements of bass, best lures to use to reach and attract said fish and don't get frustrated.

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Guest ouachitabassangler

I'd get a water release schedule from the dam or Corps Project Office and fish the narrowest channel parts. You really need to figure your sonar out. Clendening Lake appears to be in good condition. I wouldn't fish the shoreline much at all until Fall. By now any bass there are in "used water". Bass spend very little time in shallow water now, so learn to find structure next to the main channel, especially in sharp bends. Just cross the lake every 50 feet in a narrow section and throw a marker out at deepest depths to outline the channel. Without sonar you'll have to feel for structure. The bass will likely be about as deep as they can go.

Jim

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The thing that makes me raise an eyebrow is stained and muddy. Have you tried specifically targeting shallow cover? There are ALWAYS some fish shallow. Docks, trees, stumps, logs, weeds?

I would target the shallow stuff, but that's just me, I like to do that sort of thing...........

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Go to the place that usually goes against all rules if the places that you go to by the "rules" are not working. Some of the most overlooked spots on a body of water can be the absolute best.

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I tell you what........id like to fish this lake! Of course i like to fish any lake.  

Anyways, what it looks like you got is just a normal highland reservior.  It looks like there are many bluff banks and good points.  I would think that vegitation is down to a minimum and that the prevailing cover is in the form of wood and brush.  I personally in this situation.....if i was to fish it for the first time in late summer like it is now.......i would concentrate on main lake points.  So take your map and mark all the main late structure like points, bluffs, humps ect.  Now look at those and look for the ones with a considerably abrubt change in depth.......where there may be a channel that swings in close.  Id start there, because these fish are probably still in a deep summer pattern.  These bass will be up on the tops of the points in the morning and then pull back onto their edges in the afternoon.

Anyways.......id start there.  As for what lures, id use the Keep It Simple Stupid method and fish finesse straight tail worms on a drop shot or shaky head.  

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Thank you very much for the replies! I very much appreciate the help. My wife gets on my case asking me "fishing is supposed to be fun so why are you always so stressed out about it?". I guess that's just the way I am. I read everything I get my hands on about bass fishing but often find it hard to apply what I've read on the water. I suppose with time on the water it will come. Thanks again! You guys are great!

ouachitabassangler,

I'm impressed! I never mentioned the name of the lake. Not that I was hiding it. I just didn't think anyone here would know this little lake in Ohio. As for my sonar....I have a hard time figuring out where things on the screen are in relationship to me and differentiating bottom composition.

cart7 and flechero,

Thanks for taking the time to mark the map for me! I'll be trying those spots soon.

basswest1,

You're right about the vegetation....it's sparse. The fish I have caught were on or close to wood.

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Guest ouachitabassangler

The way I figure it out is I print out the map and hold it to my forehead, then the lake name just happens ;D

I just did a search using one of the cove names. Hit number one top of the list was a bingo  ;)

With sonar if you are nearly stopped what shows up is under the transducer, inside a sound cone that spreads out about 10 feet in 30 feet of water, ie, 1/3 depth equals area inside the cone on bottom. The faster you are moving, the farther behind the transducer the item is.

Light color like yellow (light gray on grayscale) indicates hard bottom. Darker shows softer. Bare tree limbs show light, but if covered with algae might show red in color units.

Jim

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